So Close!...
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Nope.
There are polysport aftermarket for DTR that are very good,XT 600 I think uses the same so you will find them cheaper.@MadGyver +1 for the Polisport gaiters, good quality, fit well and they look almost OEM. I found they balloon a little under full compression but this can be avoided by enlarging the vent holes with a leather punch.
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I ran some back in the day, got ripped the piss into for fitting them.
I was told they were great at keeping oit the wet, but equally good at keeping moisture in and causing problems
I haven’t found a gaiter that doesn’t keep in wet. I’ve pulled them in the middle of summer and had dirty, rusty (seal clip) water run out. I even made drain holes but it didn’t seem to make any difference…
I might try the neoprene ones. If they fail I’m just gonna go with old fashioned dust boots, maybe with stonechip protection extentions. Just to keep the couple inches above the seal of the stanchion from chipping…
Edit: I’m going to try the neoprene ones. I doubt that they last long, but as long as they get me through the salt season (& I dry it all out before fitting) well sealed I’m okay…
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I haven’t found a gaiter that doesn’t keep in wet. I’ve pulled them in the middle of summer and had dirty, rusty (seal clip) water run out. I even made drain holes but it didn’t seem to make any difference…
I might try the neoprene ones. If they fail I’m just gonna go with old fashioned dust boots, maybe with stonechip protection extentions. Just to keep the couple inches above the seal of the stanchion from chipping…
Edit: I’m going to try the neoprene ones. I doubt that they last long, but as long as they get me through the salt season (& I dry it all out before fitting) well sealed I’m okay…
Bikes developed a horrible ‘snatch/shunt’ when changing gear under hard acceleration. Feels like a loose chain but isn’t. The rear linkage is the only point with wear.
Remember to get a bush kit for the rear linkage! Is an All Balls the one to get?…Also, I’m getting a lot of fuel mess around my petrol cap. The seal is actually fine so I’m guessing it’s the pressure vent in the cap?
Anyone recommend a decent replacement? Or are OEMs available?… -
@Calum Thanks for your compliments bud, yes all 80s/90s two-strokes are expensive nowadays, looking at 7 grand for a well sorted TDR250 but I paid £1000 for my 1st one in 1993 as no-one really understood what they were at the time.
I guess I was in the right place at the right time but it came at a price in the form of parents etc. getting on at me to think about my future and stuff (my brother went straight through higher education, degree by age 21 but I walked out of school at 16 with no qualifications) but I just wanted to be around motorcycles. Got my fingers burned a few times trying to work for Honda and Yamaha main dealers as an apprentice, answering to a workshop foreman didn’t suit so eventually I ended up as a general dogsbody in a place which upset them all by selling grey imports direct from the US and Japan. Very low wages, I had mates at the time earning three times as much as me working for Mercedes, BMW etc., but they didn’t have what I had; some of the guys at the grey import shop were twice my age, ex-forces/prison etc. but I fitted right in and when there were errands to run they’d let me borrow their GSX-R1100s and stuff like that even though I was still a teenager. The boss was a laugh to be around as well, he was a bit of a barrow boy made good and we shared the same sense of humour. He once got me to record a Mr. Cholmondley-Warner style answerphone message for when the shop was closed, wrote a script and everything and we spent a whole afternoon doing loads of takes until it sounded exactly right.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uzDcecbHnAs
I stupidly swapped the KR1-S for an RD500LC which was a big disappointment; only 5mph faster than the Kawasaki (which even today is I believe the fastest road-going 250 ever made, Performance Bikes Magazine radar gunned one on an airfield at 139.5mph about 5 seconds before it seized) and it was a big heavy thing with tankslappy 16” wheels and quite weedy suspension by today’s standards. The engine was a bit strange as well, both banks of cylinders were different and it was needlessly complicated for what it was. And you couldn’t really modify them unless you had a blank cheque book to give Stan Stephens.
The TDR250s were definitely the most fun out of all the two-strokes I’ve owned; all my mates at the time had RG500s, NS400s etc., much better on paper but in real life they couldn’t lose me anywhere. They all had a go on the TDR at one time and came back howling with laughter swearing they were going to go out and buy one the very next day but none of them ever did. You have to remember the French had only invented Supermoto racing a few years previously so in the 90s if you showed most British bikers a CR500 with lights, 17” wheels/road tyres and a dustbin lid-sized front brake they’d just shrug their shoulders and say “nah, don’t like trial bikes”. In 1994 me and my TZR250 buddy rode up to Donington for the Yamaha Owners' Festival which included free track use for Yamaha owners. We were very tired by the time we got there (we’d ridden 200 miles up there on Friday night after work) and ended up colliding exiting the M1 less than 5 miles from the circuit which broke his footrest hanger. The next day we went into the village, bought a MCN and found a Yamaha breaker at a place called Lutterworth 50 miles back down the M1 (which is where Frank Whittle developed all the jet engines in WW2) who had the part for £15 so I rode down and got it, and bought an 8mm allen key from a hardware shop in the town to change it (everything like this suddenly becomes easier when you’re not in southern England any more). On the Sunday (exactly 28 days after we’d been there watching Kevin Schwantz take his last ever 500GP win) we were out on the track waxing a lot of bigger bikes, including a particularly obnoxious married couple with matching brand new his ‘n’ hers YZF750s who camped next to us and made fun of our oily jeans, DIY repairs etc. which was very satisfying. Also met a guy with the same bike as me who had a huge “TDR” graphic on the back of his one-piece leathers and had a good battle with him for a few laps.
If I could live that part of my life again I guess I’d do a few things differently but one thing I wouldn’t change is being the proverbial young lad in a bike shop. Crap pay, no qualifications/future but it was a very special time, after being booted out of secondary school, going through the special education system and told I’d never amount to anything I felt valued, like I was right where I needed to be and you can’t put a price on feeling like you’re part of something.
@HOTSHOT-III hey man appreciate the memories. As a 25 year old struggling to get a 35 hour work week and is constantly seeing my piers drive nice cars, have mortgages and all of the rest of it it’s nice to be reminded life isn’t all about money and looking good for other people it’s going it your own way and doing what you love. I relate a lot to what you said and the weight on my shoulders feels a little lighter now. Thank you.
Also @SpookDog whats going on with your bike? I’d have thought she’d be sorted by now
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@HOTSHOT-III hey man appreciate the memories. As a 25 year old struggling to get a 35 hour work week and is constantly seeing my piers drive nice cars, have mortgages and all of the rest of it it’s nice to be reminded life isn’t all about money and looking good for other people it’s going it your own way and doing what you love. I relate a lot to what you said and the weight on my shoulders feels a little lighter now. Thank you.
Also @SpookDog whats going on with your bike? I’d have thought she’d be sorted by now
@Stevie-Wonder No worries dude, TBH reading about what's happened to you and @SpookDog has made me feel quite humble. Good on both of you for keeping on in there and turning things positive.
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@HOTSHOT-III hey man appreciate the memories. As a 25 year old struggling to get a 35 hour work week and is constantly seeing my piers drive nice cars, have mortgages and all of the rest of it it’s nice to be reminded life isn’t all about money and looking good for other people it’s going it your own way and doing what you love. I relate a lot to what you said and the weight on my shoulders feels a little lighter now. Thank you.
Also @SpookDog whats going on with your bike? I’d have thought she’d be sorted by now
I wouldn’t know where to start! It’s been a while and my memory ain’t that good 🤪
Bikes running really sweet at the moment. Toodling along at 5.5K rpm at 55-60 and picking up revs real nice. All is good apart from a ‘snappy’ bush in the rear linkage and my tires are a bit square.
I’ve got some old Bridgestone Battlewing tires that were on the bike when I got it three years ago, I’m thinking about putting them back on. Just to see me through till dry road season…I thought you’d passed your bike test? What with the Fzr or Fazer? CBT was £130 when I did it a year ago, where I am in Dorset. £170? Ouch!…
Nice to see you back on site here..
Keep on Space Trucking!
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@Stevie-Wonder No worries dude, TBH reading about what's happened to you and @SpookDog has made me feel quite humble. Good on both of you for keeping on in there and turning things positive.
Everything happens for reason and a big part of life is your outlook. If you have a positive attitude you’ll see the good in the things that happen and you’ll find more good things tend to happen. Every cloud has a silver lining!
@SpookDog thats brilliant, I thought I’d never see the day. I felt really bad for all the things that kept going wrong! I also admire just how many miles you put on the thing, I love to see people using them as intended not just being garaged.
And unfortunately not, I bought the fazer with the plans that I’d do my test and use it to ride to Scotland with my family to spread my grandads ashes at John O’ Groats. My job at the time then stopped giving me hours and I didn’t get the honour of one last ride with him to his final resting place. Something that unfortunately I’ve never had the privilege of doing. It’s not such a bad thing though, it’s a bloody long ride for someone who’s just passed their test and everyone else but my uncle bailed on riding. Even then my grandads GS750 chop that my uncle was riding ended up in the back of the van with everyone so even if I did ride and the fazer never gave me any troubles I could’ve potentially solo rode to John O’ groats only weeks after passing my test. I only ever got to ride the bike on a handful of occasions, once to the MOT station and on a couple ballsy blips on the road near where I live. The first time I ever hit triple figures was on that bike, I went to overtake two cars coming up to a nasty corner knowing full well that it could end very badly. I just looked up at the sky said a little prayer and made sure my grandad was watching then tucked in, squeezed and let her have it. I had no gear on, just a fox mx helmet. It felt like a matter of seconds before I was doing over 110. I’m not 100% sure of how fast I was going but I glanced at the clocks in between the two cars and saw the needle approaching 120. Scared myself a little bit after that as then I’d realised just how easy it’d be to hurt myself or lose my license. I didn’t ever realise at the time until a conversation with my dad where he pointed out that if you get caught doing over a ton it’s an instant ban. Possibly one of the biggest reality checks I’ve ever had. But damn do I miss that bike, it ran really really well.
Also you too @SpookDog I hold everyone on here with such high regards it really means a lot to hear all the nice things being said by you guys or even that you’d noticed I’d been gone. It caught me off guard and put things in perspective. Feels good to be back, I plan to do a lot less talking and lot more doing (sorry Callum, I know how much you love my wall of text’s
. As always I look forward for you being a part of that journey. As always ride safe. -
@Stevie-Wonder I was reading these the other day and was thinking...well at least he's put paragraphs in.
Anyway, for the moment you're therapeutically explaining your traumas and it's good for you to put it in writing, if nothing else then for your own sakes. This isn't Facebook, we're all friends here.
Yeah @SpookDog is a bit of a legend to be fair with his DT
I've had my DTR some 14 years and he's done more miles in one year than I have in the time I've had mine. Respect 
I must admit though, say what you will about garage queens @Stevie-Wonder....for me it ain't about riding. Don't worry I use my DTR, especially when times are rough it's a great way to lift your spirits. But for me it's more about the modifying/tuning/tinkering. I spend my time alone and I will go weekends without uttering a word but you'll find me in my workshop tinkering.
When I was 17, I saved every single spare penny I earnt. I took full advantage of living at home and the majority of my wages went into my savings. I've never been on holiday, I don't drive a car, I don't drink/smoke/drugs or go out on the razz in town. Every penny goes into my house, for me, the dream was owning my very own garage where my bikes could be cherished.
Sure, I got my full bike/car license, I'm a bike fanatic why wouldn't I, but it was never really about riding. Hunting eBay/Jauce for rare bits, modifying/tinkering, for me that's what this forum is all about. I get just as much enjoyment out of nailing my 125 smokers than I ever have on a big bike. The problem, IMHO, about 4 strokes, is that they're not fast and in order to be fast you need a 750+cc and as you described it's either a death sentence or a license banner. I've worked too hard for the things I've have to throw it all away now. I cycle 20 miles to work every day and I run or cycle most places that I need go within around 40 mile return trip. Annoyingly, my car (Mk1 MX5 Turbo) got crashed into the other week. The joke being someone drove up my private driveway, crashed into it and didn't even leave a note. I don't drive the car often (once a month to keep the thing ticking over) and when I do it's followed up with a wash.
One day I want to be as good as @HOTSHOT-III/@scrimsmustang/@oldman, proper craftsmen and build meticulous works of art
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@SpookDog You can disassemble the cap and clean it.
Somewhere in there is a piece of thin cork,if it's rotten change it with the propper thickness oak paper. -
Can anybod link me to somewhere selling AllBalls rear linkage bush/bearing, seal, bolt, repair, ect kit?
I can’t seem to be able to find it…
@SpookDog AllBalls only do the swingarm bearing kit (28-1212) and lower shock bush (29-5027).
https://huntersmotorcycles.co.uk/product/all-balls-racing-swing-arm-bearings-kit-set-28-1212-1117
https://www.mandp.co.uk/products/29-5027-lower-rear-shock-bearing-kit-605946
This is the linkage bearing kit on eBay, comes with everything you need for all 3 linkage bearings (relay arm and both tiebars) but the sleeves don't have the 2mm holes which allow grease to pass from inside the bolts, through the sleeve and into the actual bearing. I tried drilling some once, even cobalt steel drill bits made no impression whatsoever so I guess they must be case hardened, which is a good indication of quality but even so you need those holes if you're paying 120 quid and want it to last. 8' x 6' shed here with a hobby level pillar drill which was given to me but I guess some local engineering shop would have a drill press powerful enough to drill them:
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Can anybod link me to somewhere selling AllBalls rear linkage bush/bearing, seal, bolt, repair, ect kit?
I can’t seem to be able to find it…
@SpookDog In practice the linkage bearing sleeves often don't wear so if you vernier your originals up and they're still close to 20mm OD you can just get the linkage parts separately. Relay arm bearings:
https://shop.marksman-ind.com/93315-32052-00-equivalent-yamaha-bearing-29446-p.asp
Linkage bushes:
https://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/p142950/MB2020X-Bronze-Backed-Steel-Bush-20x23x20mm/product_info.htmlDouble check all of these dimensions before ordering as it's a while since I did a DTR linkage job but I'm pretty sure these are correct. Just rip the piss out of me if they're not.
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Can anybod link me to somewhere selling AllBalls rear linkage bush/bearing, seal, bolt, repair, ect kit?
I can’t seem to be able to find it…
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Can anybod link me to somewhere selling AllBalls rear linkage bush/bearing, seal, bolt, repair, ect kit?
I can’t seem to be able to find it…
Had bought everything from Greek official Yamaha dealer with their part numbers.
Doesn't matter if it's old part number,they will sent you the replacement one. Most of the times they have very good prices that you saves you from the hassle of multiple different purchases.
Did you try it at UK?I need my tools and a pile of junk.....
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Can anybod link me to somewhere selling AllBalls rear linkage bush/bearing, seal, bolt, repair, ect kit?
I can’t seem to be able to find it…
Had bought everything from Greek official Yamaha dealer with their part numbers.
Doesn't matter if it's old part number,they will sent you the replacement one. Most of the times they have very good prices that you saves you from the hassle of multiple different purchases.
Did you try it at UK?@MadGyver It's good to hear genuine Yamaha parts are reasonably priced in Greece but they can be very expensive here in the UK. The relay arm bearings for example are about £35 each meaning you can have ten from Marksman Industrial for the price of two from Fowlers, and just keep changing them. And they're exactly the same part, just an engineering consumable of Japanese manufacture. Same story with the bushes from Simply Bearings, in fact if you look at the link these are available in widths up to 25mm which give more load-bearing area than the Yamaha items.
The seals from Simply Bearings are also better as they're double lipped with a garter spring (the genuine seals only have a single lip and are much more expensive). This means you can do the seal mod where you flip the seals so the garter spring faces outwards away from the bearing; the lip without the spring is just a dust wiper so you can then cut small sections out of this with Swiss Army Knife scissors (best/sharpest scissors I've ever used) or one of those leather punches so when you re-lube the linkage bearings with a grease gun, the hydraulic pressure is less likely to force the seals out. The grease is free to pass through the gaps in the dust seal lip (now on the inside) and lift up the lip with the garter spring as it moves through the bearing. The sprung lip then retracts, retaining enough grease inside the bearing and keeping dirt out.
If like me you're ham-fisted with the grease gun, it will still try and force out the seals so you can also hacksaw a section out of an M20 washer to make it U-shaped and insert it in the gap between the tiebars and the arm during greasing to prevent this (with the linkage bolted together and the seals where they should be, you can actually move the tiebar/sleeve assembly 2-3mm side to side; useful after you've greased up everything as with the bike on a MX bike stand, you can move it fully each way with light taps from a rubber mallet to make it splodge the excess grease away from the bearings/seals, then clean it all off thoroughly to prevent any getting on the rear tyre).
The cost of living is very high in the UK and the overcharging by some companies is just unreasonable, meaning many people end up adopting a state of mind where they are prepared to go out of their way to avoid giving that particular company or industry any money.
Here is an example; I've developed an interest in restoring mid-2000s mountain bikes because I don't want to buy a new one, and I happen to like 26" wheels and 3x9 transmissions (fun fact: a modern 29" wheel bike with 1x11 transmission gives up 10% climbing ability and 10% top speed compared to my bikes). So this week I found a 2006 S-Works Stumpjumper which has rear suspension which automatically switches between lockout and open. I have some Fox 32 forks which have the same feature, but you can't get parts for them any more because the UK MTB industry is trying to force me to buy a new bike/forks etc. The base valve in the damper has an adjustable blowoff valve with several O-rings I would like to replace whilst servicing the forks, but I don't have the special tool to get this apart and it had been Loctited by the previous owner. After 3 days of thinking it over, I finally managed this last night by gently heating it, then using a strap wrench with a small section of #1500 wet and dry to grip the cylindrical housing without damaging it (it's the thickness of an egg shell). So now I can fully service my 2007 Fox forks, and when they're fitted to this bike I'll be able to tune exactly when both ends change from locked out to open and make the forks and shock match each other, my riding style, weight, favourite trails etc.
Again I'm pleased for you that Yamaha parts are priced fairly where you live but it's not the case here in the UK so you have to wait until it starts raining (as it most assuredly will), go into the shed and get inventive. Just have to measure up the O-rings now which is usually the most difficult part! Cheers bud
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@MadGyver It's good to hear genuine Yamaha parts are reasonably priced in Greece but they can be very expensive here in the UK. The relay arm bearings for example are about £35 each meaning you can have ten from Marksman Industrial for the price of two from Fowlers, and just keep changing them. And they're exactly the same part, just an engineering consumable of Japanese manufacture. Same story with the bushes from Simply Bearings, in fact if you look at the link these are available in widths up to 25mm which give more load-bearing area than the Yamaha items.
The seals from Simply Bearings are also better as they're double lipped with a garter spring (the genuine seals only have a single lip and are much more expensive). This means you can do the seal mod where you flip the seals so the garter spring faces outwards away from the bearing; the lip without the spring is just a dust wiper so you can then cut small sections out of this with Swiss Army Knife scissors (best/sharpest scissors I've ever used) or one of those leather punches so when you re-lube the linkage bearings with a grease gun, the hydraulic pressure is less likely to force the seals out. The grease is free to pass through the gaps in the dust seal lip (now on the inside) and lift up the lip with the garter spring as it moves through the bearing. The sprung lip then retracts, retaining enough grease inside the bearing and keeping dirt out.
If like me you're ham-fisted with the grease gun, it will still try and force out the seals so you can also hacksaw a section out of an M20 washer to make it U-shaped and insert it in the gap between the tiebars and the arm during greasing to prevent this (with the linkage bolted together and the seals where they should be, you can actually move the tiebar/sleeve assembly 2-3mm side to side; useful after you've greased up everything as with the bike on a MX bike stand, you can move it fully each way with light taps from a rubber mallet to make it splodge the excess grease away from the bearings/seals, then clean it all off thoroughly to prevent any getting on the rear tyre).
The cost of living is very high in the UK and the overcharging by some companies is just unreasonable, meaning many people end up adopting a state of mind where they are prepared to go out of their way to avoid giving that particular company or industry any money.
Here is an example; I've developed an interest in restoring mid-2000s mountain bikes because I don't want to buy a new one, and I happen to like 26" wheels and 3x9 transmissions (fun fact: a modern 29" wheel bike with 1x11 transmission gives up 10% climbing ability and 10% top speed compared to my bikes). So this week I found a 2006 S-Works Stumpjumper which has rear suspension which automatically switches between lockout and open. I have some Fox 32 forks which have the same feature, but you can't get parts for them any more because the UK MTB industry is trying to force me to buy a new bike/forks etc. The base valve in the damper has an adjustable blowoff valve with several O-rings I would like to replace whilst servicing the forks, but I don't have the special tool to get this apart and it had been Loctited by the previous owner. After 3 days of thinking it over, I finally managed this last night by gently heating it, then using a strap wrench with a small section of #1500 wet and dry to grip the cylindrical housing without damaging it (it's the thickness of an egg shell). So now I can fully service my 2007 Fox forks, and when they're fitted to this bike I'll be able to tune exactly when both ends change from locked out to open and make the forks and shock match each other, my riding style, weight, favourite trails etc.Again I'm pleased for you that Yamaha parts are priced fairly where you live but it's not the case here in the UK so you have to wait until it starts raining (as it most assuredly will), go into the shed and get inventive. Just have to measure up the O-rings now which is usually the most difficult part! Cheers bud
If a drill won’t make a hole, how about a small ‘slot’ with a dremmel cutting wheel? Do you think it would fux up the integrity of the sleeve? I’m inclined to be wanting grease delivered into it, rather than how pretty it looks inside there!
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If a drill won’t make a hole, how about a small ‘slot’ with a dremmel cutting wheel? Do you think it would fux up the integrity of the sleeve? I’m inclined to be wanting grease delivered into it, rather than how pretty it looks inside there!
…@SpookDog I think it would affect the structural integrity to be honest, the torque setting for those linkage bolts is about 60Nm so that sleeve is under compression when they're tightened. A round hole is still a stress riser but not quite in the same league as a straight cut.
Easier to find someone on one of the industrial estates who can drill them. Or start by getting this and measuring your old ones, I don't think I ever had to replace one of those sleeves:
Or IIRC genuine ones are about £25 each from Fowlers so if you get all the other bits using the links I posted up, you'll end up with a rear linkage which can be greased externally for 3(£25) + 2(£7) + 6(£3) = £107.00 which is less than the eBay kit. TBH I'd do that, and you'll have enough left over to spend 9 quid on a digital vernier which once you have it, you'll find yourself using every day
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@SpookDog I think it would affect the structural integrity to be honest, the torque setting for those linkage bolts is about 60Nm so that sleeve is under compression when they're tightened. A round hole is still a stress riser but not quite in the same league as a straight cut.
Easier to find someone on one of the industrial estates who can drill them. Or start by getting this and measuring your old ones, I don't think I ever had to replace one of those sleeves:
Or IIRC genuine ones are about £25 each from Fowlers so if you get all the other bits using the links I posted up, you'll end up with a rear linkage which can be greased externally for 3(£25) + 2(£7) + 6(£3) = £107.00 which is less than the eBay kit. TBH I'd do that, and you'll have enough left over to spend 9 quid on a digital vernier which once you have it, you'll find yourself using every day
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Just an update that things are still going well with the bike. It’s running sweet as nuts!
The one strange thing is that I got so used to riding at 5-6K RPM that I still haven’t taken it over 6K, even though I know it’s sound now! I mean it cruises at 60mph at about 5 ~ 5 & 1/2K! Depending on the windy weather.
I don’t know if I’m being cautious or have developed a fear of the redline!
I keep telling myself that I’m waiting for the dry spring roads and a new set of (non square) tires!…
The clutch cable snapped again after only 8 weeks of use. It’s a Slinky that let go at the nipple. The last one saw me through 2years and 20,000+ miles, go figure!
I’ve got another Slinky and a proper clutch perch to put on. The one that came with the bike isn’t righteous, the lever just doesn’t fit right and it only has one pinch bolt, as well as fouling the grip slightly…I’m neck deep in fitting a new kitchen sink, work surface and tiles, ect to my siss’s kitchen at the moment, as well as building cupboards!
It’s the least I can do, she got me the Dtr when I was down on my arse!…Still haven’t found a dry enough spell to wash and ACF~50 it yet!…
Got to keep busy or go crazy looking at the state of the world!…
