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DT125R FORUM

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  4. Hello all

Hello all

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Welcome New Owners!
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  • S SpookDog

    @mcludd

    Hmm, slim but possible. What about trying your boys CDI on yours, or are they not compatible?…

    What markings are on your CDI?

    Edit: Sorry I just read your post through properly. I have a bad habit (among others) of skimming instead of reading…

    Let us know the markings and I’ll see if I got a spare you can borrow to swap out…

    S Offline
    S Offline
    SpookDog
    wrote on last edited by SpookDog
    #8

    oh!! I had a problem recently with the battery feed wire (red I think), at the block connector to the key barrel, it had separated but was still pressing up against the block.
    The ignition (on mine) runs from the stator. The PV is totally off of the battery…

    Have you checked out the PV for movement while the engine is running, revving?…

    Sorry if you’ve already covered this, I’ve got ‘memory dyslexia’ 😜 …

    Edit:Edit: 2005 is nearly all DC I think. I’ve never had any experience with the later stator setups…

    S 1 Reply Last reply
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    • S SpookDog

      oh!! I had a problem recently with the battery feed wire (red I think), at the block connector to the key barrel, it had separated but was still pressing up against the block.
      The ignition (on mine) runs from the stator. The PV is totally off of the battery…

      Have you checked out the PV for movement while the engine is running, revving?…

      Sorry if you’ve already covered this, I’ve got ‘memory dyslexia’ 😜 …

      Edit:Edit: 2005 is nearly all DC I think. I’ve never had any experience with the later stator setups…

      S Offline
      S Offline
      SpookDog
      wrote on last edited by SpookDog
      #9

      Is your battery in good condition? Your year bike is very dependent on battery. For lights and everything. The earlier bikes had AC & DC. I believe yours is DC only…

      PS sorry about the verbal diahrea, it’s been one of ‘those’ days for me 🙂 …

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      • M Offline
        M Offline
        mcludd
        wrote on last edited by Calum
        #10


        Sadly no visible markings on the CDI but it is one like this that sits on the frame top tube

        S 1 Reply Last reply
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        • M mcludd


          Sadly no visible markings on the CDI but it is one like this that sits on the frame top tube

          S Offline
          S Offline
          SpookDog
          wrote on last edited by
          #11

          @mcludd

          Have you tried running the bike with the PV side cover off to see if it works at all while running? 2004 was a new wiring generation. I don’t know if they even cycle at key-turn?…

          M 1 Reply Last reply
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          • CalumC Offline
            CalumC Offline
            Calum
            wrote on last edited by
            #12

            @mcludd Fixed the image for you. Needs to go in ![](www.example.com/image.jpg) notation.

            That's a DTRE/X CDI ignition system. So for the later models upwards.

            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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            • S SpookDog

              @mcludd

              Have you tried running the bike with the PV side cover off to see if it works at all while running? 2004 was a new wiring generation. I don’t know if they even cycle at key-turn?…

              M Offline
              M Offline
              mcludd
              wrote on last edited by
              #13

              @SpookDog said in Hello all:

              @mcludd

              Have you tried running the bike with the PV side cover off to see if it works at all while running? 2004 was a new wiring generation. I don’t know if they even cycle at key-turn?…

              I have run it with the servo plugged in but no cables just watching the pulley and no movement through the rev range However the earlier post which says that the later ones are very DC dependant is interesting, I know the battery is OK but I haven't checked for a 12v supply going into the CDI (principally as I dont know which wire is the supply) but I have noticed a broken red wire in the loom which could be a supply ? The wiring harness is generally not in very good shape so it could or indeed probably be the problem rather than the CDI

              S 1 Reply Last reply
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              • CalumC Offline
                CalumC Offline
                Calum
                wrote on last edited by
                #14

                I am not saying it's the CDI, but generally those DTRE CDIs are very good. Does the PV motor even work? It's quite common to burn out the motors on these items if the PV seizes and a lot of strain is applied to the motor.

                Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                • M Offline
                  M Offline
                  mcludd
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #15

                  Yes I tested the motor on my sons deet and it cycles when the ignition is turned on

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • CalumC Offline
                    CalumC Offline
                    Calum
                    wrote on last edited by Calum
                    #16

                    Yes sorry, and you've no way to test the CDI on your sons loom as presumably you have the later model DT. I will be surprised if both CDIs are broken. I made the mistake of selling my DTRE CDI after I bought a Zeeltronic, consequently it was then a nightmare trying to understand if the Zeel was faulty or if there is an issue with something else, so I promptly bought another CDI at great expense to myself.

                    All I can suggest is obtaining a known-working CDI to rule it out. That's all I know about the CDI.

                    But as I say, I'd be surprised if it's the CDI and it's more likely going to be something far simpler. Even down to something like a fuse. I know on my Cagiva, there is an inline fuse specifically for the powervalve, but as far as I remember the DTRE only has a single fuse block on the battery for the entire bike, worth checking though. And as you've alluded to, signal wires could be damaged and/or bad earths. The CDI on DTRE specifically is restricted on the PV to be retarded at RPMs above 10k and therefore there is often a Green/Black wire that will be earthed to the frame to enable "full power".

                    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                    • M mcludd

                      @SpookDog said in Hello all:

                      @mcludd

                      Have you tried running the bike with the PV side cover off to see if it works at all while running? 2004 was a new wiring generation. I don’t know if they even cycle at key-turn?…

                      I have run it with the servo plugged in but no cables just watching the pulley and no movement through the rev range However the earlier post which says that the later ones are very DC dependant is interesting, I know the battery is OK but I haven't checked for a 12v supply going into the CDI (principally as I dont know which wire is the supply) but I have noticed a broken red wire in the loom which could be a supply ? The wiring harness is generally not in very good shape so it could or indeed probably be the problem rather than the CDI

                      S Offline
                      S Offline
                      SpookDog
                      wrote on last edited by SpookDog
                      #17

                      @mcludd

                      Broken Red sounds suspicious! 🙂

                      The chances of 2 different CDI units having the same fault is astronomical! I’d be looking at the loom and DC from battery to PV.
                      My early 88 bike had a broken red wire at one of the connector blocks that go to the ignition-key. It was smooshed up and still touching, when I fixed it the power valve properly came to life. I never realised how ‘slow’ it was before. I had no ‘benchmark’…

                      If the PV isn’t moving at all it definitely sounds like a 12V DC issue. Mend that wire! 🙂 …

                      If the horn and indicators work without the engine running the battery & fuse is good…

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                      • M Offline
                        M Offline
                        mcludd
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #18

                        Well had another round with the Deet from hell, I was following a wiring diagram from the internet but it looked OK it showed 2 x 6 wire connectors and 1 x 4 way connectors going into the CDI which is what mine has anyway what I found was there is a 12v feed going into the CDI on ignition live through the black blue wire from the servo connector there is also a 12v feed comes from the black red wire coming from the alternator when the engine is running, also found out my new old CDI doesn't spark when encouraged so that is totally useless and obviously its going back the other thing I found was that it seems there is no volts coming out of the alternator with the engine running so probably a dud stator but still to pull the flywheel to investigate that one.Oh and the red wire, this best I can tell was a live supply to an optional alarm which I dont have so I have blanked it off
                        Anyhoo to summarise I have a replacement duff CDI my original CDI which may or may not be any good servo wise but it does make sparks unlike its replacement - an alternator that makes no volts and a PV servo which I know works but does not on this bike

                        S 1 Reply Last reply
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                        • CalumC Offline
                          CalumC Offline
                          Calum
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #19

                          Yes sounds like a whole culmination of problems. Fun times with a bike that's only been owned by teens!

                          But well worth tackling in the end. They're becoming an appreciating classic.

                          Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                          • M Offline
                            M Offline
                            mcludd
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #20

                            I bought an NSR 125 a few years ago sight unseen from evilbay, jesus what a mess when I collected it obvious 17 yr old negligence - every consumable on the bike was worn to a depressing degree tyres, brakes, chain, sprockets, air filter, piston, rings, battery,small end bearing, fork seals. along with needing a repaint and decals I bought it for something to tinker with over winter and also for the satisfaction of saving a smoker from the scrap heap (where it certainly was heading if I hadn't stepped in) so when it was Mot tested and finished I stuck it back on e bay and I think I ended up 80 quid in front on the deal. The deet is a similar project I dont really want a DT 125 as a serious bike but it is certainly worth saving just its a complete bugger and resisting my helping it

                            1 Reply Last reply
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                            • CalumC Offline
                              CalumC Offline
                              Calum
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #21

                              Lovely, have you any photos of the NSR?

                              The thing I'll say about the DT, I've had mine nearly 13+ years and it's literally never let me down. I've not daily'd it for a few years and it's now a weekend warrior, with the occasional trip to work if I cannot be bothered to cycle, but it's a dependable little bike. Mine got stolen and wrecked beyond recognition. The situation at the time meant I didn't have money for a new bike, but always fancied a supermoto so I ended up with a modified DTR. But dayum, in original condition these days, the bikes sell for a pretty penny.

                              Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                              1 Reply Last reply
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                              • M mcludd

                                Well had another round with the Deet from hell, I was following a wiring diagram from the internet but it looked OK it showed 2 x 6 wire connectors and 1 x 4 way connectors going into the CDI which is what mine has anyway what I found was there is a 12v feed going into the CDI on ignition live through the black blue wire from the servo connector there is also a 12v feed comes from the black red wire coming from the alternator when the engine is running, also found out my new old CDI doesn't spark when encouraged so that is totally useless and obviously its going back the other thing I found was that it seems there is no volts coming out of the alternator with the engine running so probably a dud stator but still to pull the flywheel to investigate that one.Oh and the red wire, this best I can tell was a live supply to an optional alarm which I dont have so I have blanked it off
                                Anyhoo to summarise I have a replacement duff CDI my original CDI which may or may not be any good servo wise but it does make sparks unlike its replacement - an alternator that makes no volts and a PV servo which I know works but does not on this bike

                                S Offline
                                S Offline
                                SpookDog
                                wrote on last edited by SpookDog
                                #22

                                @mcludd

                                It wouldn’t be running if it wasn’t putting something out.
                                I’m guessing that the lights work when you turn the key? Indicators, horn Yada-Yada?
                                The battery is charging?…

                                Bitch about the CDI!

                                If there’s a duff wire from the stator it could be a dry solder or broken wire.
                                Flywheel pullers are cheap enough. Just make sure you get the proper thread sided one! I don’t know if it’s left or right. Callum will prolly know 🙂 …

                                I ended up buying both! 🫤 …

                                PS please let us know about the rest of the electrics!! 🙂 …

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                                • M Offline
                                  M Offline
                                  mcludd
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #23

                                  I had a transit battery jump leaded to it and with the engine running it was showing 12.6v but no increase with revs so I disconnected the transit battery and went back to the deet one alone which was now at 11.7v and again no voltage increase with revs, need to see if there is anything coming out of the alternator phase wires next (I suspect not) if thats the case then the stator is goosed or if there is then the rectifier/reg is done for - will see what tomorrow brings if I have a spare hour

                                  S 1 Reply Last reply
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                                  • CalumC Offline
                                    CalumC Offline
                                    Calum
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #24

                                    Should be 14.4V when engines running so something isn't right there.

                                    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                                    • M mcludd

                                      I had a transit battery jump leaded to it and with the engine running it was showing 12.6v but no increase with revs so I disconnected the transit battery and went back to the deet one alone which was now at 11.7v and again no voltage increase with revs, need to see if there is anything coming out of the alternator phase wires next (I suspect not) if thats the case then the stator is goosed or if there is then the rectifier/reg is done for - will see what tomorrow brings if I have a spare hour

                                      S Offline
                                      S Offline
                                      SpookDog
                                      wrote on last edited by SpookDog
                                      #25

                                      @mcludd

                                      Again with the lights & ancillaries?!…

                                      I’ve got a spare DC only RR. Check the markings on yours to see if it’s compatible…

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                                      • M Offline
                                        M Offline
                                        mcludd
                                        wrote on last edited by mcludd
                                        #26

                                        Making some progress I think, I checked the phase wires from the alternator and got 20v, 30v and zero!!!!!! thats a phase down then, so I took off the rotor (no thread for an extractor but 3 M8 jacking holes, I used one of these and managed to miss the windings gave it a clunk with a hammer and it fell off on the floor. Here's where it gets interesting, instead of a 12 segment plus HT stator there is a 6 segment plus HT also no sign of any burnt windings
                                        [img]https://i.imgur.com/etmh7JU.jpg[/img]

                                        Must be a break in continuity between alternator and rectifier then I think so I start to have a dig in the wires and FFS!!!!
                                        [img]https://i.imgur.com/ydrP70S.jpg[/img]

                                        So an hour or so later shrink wrappery and solder
                                        [img]https://i.imgur.com/jLWlxqx.jpg[/img]

                                        Brilliant all done you might think, well errr not so the diagram shows that there should be a further wire coming from the alternator up to the CDI (green/blue) and I have it making the journey from the multi plug to the CDI but not coming from the alternator - BUGGER!!!!!

                                        [img]https://i.imgur.com/ct10W8V.jpg[/img]

                                        So here's my thoughts, this is an earlier engine (no electric start no sprag clutch no hole in the cases for a starter motor) with an earlier engine which due to the lack of I assume signal wire to the CDI is not compatible with the CDI I have, my options are as far as I can see fit a later model rotor and stator. graft an earlier model CDI (possibly an earlier wiring harness?) Break the bugger and cut my losses

                                        CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
                                        0
                                        • M mcludd

                                          Making some progress I think, I checked the phase wires from the alternator and got 20v, 30v and zero!!!!!! thats a phase down then, so I took off the rotor (no thread for an extractor but 3 M8 jacking holes, I used one of these and managed to miss the windings gave it a clunk with a hammer and it fell off on the floor. Here's where it gets interesting, instead of a 12 segment plus HT stator there is a 6 segment plus HT also no sign of any burnt windings
                                          [img]https://i.imgur.com/etmh7JU.jpg[/img]

                                          Must be a break in continuity between alternator and rectifier then I think so I start to have a dig in the wires and FFS!!!!
                                          [img]https://i.imgur.com/ydrP70S.jpg[/img]

                                          So an hour or so later shrink wrappery and solder
                                          [img]https://i.imgur.com/jLWlxqx.jpg[/img]

                                          Brilliant all done you might think, well errr not so the diagram shows that there should be a further wire coming from the alternator up to the CDI (green/blue) and I have it making the journey from the multi plug to the CDI but not coming from the alternator - BUGGER!!!!!

                                          [img]https://i.imgur.com/ct10W8V.jpg[/img]

                                          So here's my thoughts, this is an earlier engine (no electric start no sprag clutch no hole in the cases for a starter motor) with an earlier engine which due to the lack of I assume signal wire to the CDI is not compatible with the CDI I have, my options are as far as I can see fit a later model rotor and stator. graft an earlier model CDI (possibly an earlier wiring harness?) Break the bugger and cut my losses

                                          CalumC Offline
                                          CalumC Offline
                                          Calum
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #27

                                          @mcludd I literally fixed and then @ you about how to embed photos #12.

                                          Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                                          M 1 Reply Last reply
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