Dtr 125 1997 Rebuild/Restoration
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@HOTSHOT-III Thank you lad. I saw a video on yt about the tz style plastic but the link didnt work and google gave me nothing. Also i ride it as a hobby and mostly smaller tracks bc the bike struggles on bigger tracks, i live in Estonia. And about the suspention i was thinking on the rear shock you gave, but the front. I was thinking on putting heavier oil like w20 and spacers on the springs. As i said my budget isnt that big and most of it is going in to the restoration so i am going to be left with probably 300 to 200 euro for straight upgrades and new parts. I am gonna respond to this in more detail after Christmas. Right now im typing this on my phone and im a bit of a hurry with the Holliday activities.
Putting washers or spacers in the forks doesn’t make them harder. It just pre-compresses the springs. Heavier oil will change the dampening, but also won’t make the suspension harder…
I spent £100 on (progressive) aftermarket springs. They’ve changed the whole feel of the bike for the better. I’m not doing air with it though
It’s aimed at road use mainly, a lot more stable at speed… -
Putting washers or spacers in the forks doesn’t make them harder. It just pre-compresses the springs. Heavier oil will change the dampening, but also won’t make the suspension harder…
I spent £100 on (progressive) aftermarket springs. They’ve changed the whole feel of the bike for the better. I’m not doing air with it though
It’s aimed at road use mainly, a lot more stable at speed…@SpookDog i just got new front fork from my uncle. He had a yamaha dt 125 back in the day, but i dont know witch year. il send a pic of them soon. The fork has adjustability settings on top and also bottom. They need a oil change but should be good for replacement front forks.
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@SpookDog i just got new front fork from my uncle. He had a yamaha dt 125 back in the day, but i dont know witch year. il send a pic of them soon. The fork has adjustability settings on top and also bottom. They need a oil change but should be good for replacement front forks.
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@SpookDog uncle said that he think its adjustable at the bottom. Actually its the screw to let oil out.
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Well, that's no excuse. Look at what @SpookDog has achieved out in the exposed elements. In the brevity of dry spells he's out there smashing a restoration!
Anything is possible.
That said, unless it really needs it, you'd probably get away with just waiting.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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Well, that's no excuse. Look at what @SpookDog has achieved out in the exposed elements. In the brevity of dry spells he's out there smashing a restoration!
Anything is possible.
That said, unless it really needs it, you'd probably get away with just waiting.
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@Calum its -25C where i am at if you have some advice how i can paint -25c weather please tell me.
Quickly?!
…I’m sorry but I don’t remember where you are in the world, Eastern Europe?
Metal does strange things at those temperatures. You can shatter it like glass if you’re not careful. You can absolutely guarantee that a spanner will slip and you’ll skin your knuckles!… -
Quickly?!
…I’m sorry but I don’t remember where you are in the world, Eastern Europe?
Metal does strange things at those temperatures. You can shatter it like glass if you’re not careful. You can absolutely guarantee that a spanner will slip and you’ll skin your knuckles!… -
@SpookDog the problem is paint wount stick at this temp. And im in estonia, next to finland.
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Hello again.
Ive returned and i will start my build waay to late in to the summer.
Ive ordered new parts and id like to know yalls opinions
The parts:
Full Athena exhaust,
piston,
turn signals,
Plastics,
Pwk 36 carburetor,
Athena gaskets,
Bearings and bushings,
And a little paint.Im planning to go full black on the plastics and put dark blue decals on them, also im going to paint the frame yamaha 403 dark blue.
Ive already upgraded my front suspention with dt 125 1980-1990 sumting motocross springs, heavier oil 15w, and put the stock spacer in my right fork. For the rear ive maxed out the shock and it rides lika dream even without the new parts yet.
The engine is in pretty good condition, all the gears are good but ive noticed that some bearings need to be replaced. I am very suprised that my crank is still good and not rattling beacuse ive used the bike for enduro/motocross/road usage. But my 3mb00 cylinder has a mirror finish and with my old piston has 75 psi but it still ripps and keeps up with a 2017 ktm sx 125 on full gas. Im sending the cylinder to my local shop to get it honed, then il run it with my old puston till the new parts arrive.
On the electrical side, everything is in meh condition. I need to rewire some parts and make some adjustments so i can put on my new turn signals. The biggest problem tha i have is that my derestrictor switch dosent work on the first try, i need to switch it for 30 seconds or so that it derestricts it and i have been thinking of putting somekind of a toggelable repeater on it so i dont have to mess with it, but i havent decided.
About the frame. It has some rust and dabage but mostly its all good, as a said before im thinking of spraying it with yamaha 403 dark blue paint, other than that im going to replace my swingarm bushings tomorrow, beacuse they are shot and rusted as hell.
For the drivetrain i bought a 15/51 sprokets so i can cruise at 90km/h in about 6000rpm and the top speed should be around 135km/h according to gearingcommander website.
Lastly i would like to ask, is there a way that i could increase my revs to about 11k rpm? Right now it maxxes at like 9.5k and dosent sound the best.
All the feedback is greatly appreciated.
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@Calum i am thinking on ignitech programmable cdi. Its about 200 euro and one of my friends used that. Is zeeltronic a little better than that? Comparably they to pretty much the same thing and can be programmed similarly, but zeeltronic is just more expensive.
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