engine piston check
-
You still have the barrel off yeah?
You should be able to rotate the stator easily by hand. It shouldn’t make any rumble noises or feel clicky/notchy when you turn it…If you gently lever the stator up and down it shouldn’t have any free movement. It might flex a bit if levered too much…
@SpookDog i did what you said but i didn't take the cylinder off i only took the sparkplug and took the stator side cover off,
it could be easily turned by hand and it has no movement up or down neither side to side no clicking no nothing just a little friction noisse wich i think is coming from the piston as its not in a good condition -
@SpookDog i did what you said but i didn't take the cylinder off i only took the sparkplug and took the stator side cover off,
it could be easily turned by hand and it has no movement up or down neither side to side no clicking no nothing just a little friction noisse wich i think is coming from the piston as its not in a good conditionBit of piston ‘scoosh’ is to expected in that condition
The crank turned real smoothly as well? No little stops or notchyness?
Bud! What are the first 3 numerics after the * on your engine and frame? If you let us know we can find out what year and model you have. It’s especially important when it comes to electrics…
-
-
Bit of piston ‘scoosh’ is to expected in that condition
The crank turned real smoothly as well? No little stops or notchyness?
Bud! What are the first 3 numerics after the * on your engine and frame? If you let us know we can find out what year and model you have. It’s especially important when it comes to electrics…
-
-
@MadGyver on the front brake hose it is repeated many times it writes DOT NCRN 12/91 1/8 HL im guessing that 12/91 refers to december 1991 maybe ?
-
That would tie in right. You have the 3 wire servo fitted to your bike don’t you?…
So it’s pre- 96 I think… -
That would tie in right. You have the 3 wire servo fitted to your bike don’t you?…
So it’s pre- 96 I think… -
@SpookDog i got a top end athena gasket kit but since i have to rebore to 57mm bore will it be a problem ?
-
No, I have a 58 I use (about 140cc)
You do have to check it doesn’t touch the power valve when it gets to a certain size…
-
@SpookDog yeah i know about power valve, i was just thinking would the top end gasket be smaller than the barrel but it should be fine
-
@SpookDog yo one last thing i made a video today of kicking the bike over just so you can hear the bike make that friction noise to know if the crank is good, idk maybe just my stress is making me hear it or idk here is the vid https://imgur.com/gallery/HRIy3mb
-
@SpookDog yo one last thing i made a video today of kicking the bike over just so you can hear the bike make that friction noise to know if the crank is good, idk maybe just my stress is making me hear it or idk here is the vid https://imgur.com/gallery/HRIy3mb
-
Can’t hear anything over the exhaust! You’ll have to do it turning the stator by hand…
-
@SpookDog no i mean the noise that it makes the first 3times that i kick it or maybe its just the normal sound the bike makes when turned over, as for when its runing it doesn't make any noise
-
@erion1 Have you done a compression test,if something is wrong with the piston or piston rings it should show low compression.
@MadGyver yeah it has low compression its easy to kick and had blow by when i opened it, the bike is waiting for a rebuid i just got a top end athena gasket today i will get a piston in 2-3 weeks and i will send the barrel for a rebore to 57mm im just trying to check if the crank bearings are in good condition as my bike drank coolant before and i was thinking it could of caused corrosion in the bearings and that could sent my whole engine to the moon
-
@SpookDog i will make a vid when i open it up, but all im saying is if that noise is normal i think it comes from crank rotating and the pistons it should be normal as things move there and make friction. anyways i will make a video when i open it up again and send a video and we can discuss a bit more acurately
-
@erion1 After you remove the top end,only an experienced one can tell you if it's ok the bottom end at a 90%.
To be sure 100% you have to dismantle the engine.
When rebuilding,changed conrod just in case,because 0f 56k km's of the engine.bearings still had life and the con-rod was so good that a friend with a machinery shop checked for tolerances and told me to keep it for backup with a new set of bearings.
I just couldn't gamble with a top end rebuild of an unknown internals condition.Piston condition was way better than yours,still have it.
You get me what I mean. No video/sound recording can replace that. -
@erion1 After you remove the top end,only an experienced one can tell you if it's ok the bottom end at a 90%.
To be sure 100% you have to dismantle the engine.
When rebuilding,changed conrod just in case,because 0f 56k km's of the engine.bearings still had life and the con-rod was so good that a friend with a machinery shop checked for tolerances and told me to keep it for backup with a new set of bearings.
I just couldn't gamble with a top end rebuild of an unknown internals condition.Piston condition was way better than yours,still have it.
You get me what I mean. No video/sound recording can replace that.@MadGyver yeah i get what you mean, im not woired that much about the crank i just know that it used to loose my coolant and i know that i drove it everyday and i dont think water could of stayed in the engine to cause corrosion, based on my thinking(haha) i just imagine that the water evaporated from the crank everytime i ran the bike