engine piston check
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@SpookDog haha no wories mate, im planning to get a meteor piston(any thoughts on that?)and a athena gasket a rebore and fit it all together
@erion1 These? I didn't know there was such a brand TBH, just looked them up and the website looks good. Encouraging they're available in .25mm increments as you get potentially twice as many rebore sizes:
Interesting they also offer a different piston kit for the '94 to '04 DTR; both kits start at 56mm (so not sure if the 1st link refers to the '88 3DB DTR as these and the original 2RH TZR125 had a 56.4mm bore as standard) but other dimensions are slightly different so there must have been changes during the '89 onwards DTR production run. Can anyone shed any light on this? Comparing the two webpages seems to indicate .5mm difference from the top of the gudgeon pin hole to the piston crown:
I always ran Mitaka and was happy with them (as long as you get the Japanese ones) but they only seem to be available in .5mm increments now.
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@erion1 These? I didn't know there was such a brand TBH, just looked them up and the website looks good. Encouraging they're available in .25mm increments as you get potentially twice as many rebore sizes:
Interesting they also offer a different piston kit for the '94 to '04 DTR; both kits start at 56mm (so not sure if the 1st link refers to the '88 3DB DTR as these and the original 2RH TZR125 had a 56.4mm bore as standard) but other dimensions are slightly different so there must have been changes during the '89 onwards DTR production run. Can anyone shed any light on this? Comparing the two webpages seems to indicate .5mm difference from the top of the gudgeon pin hole to the piston crown:
I always ran Mitaka and was happy with them (as long as you get the Japanese ones) but they only seem to be available in .5mm increments now.
@HOTSHOT-III i don't think i can find mitaka piston in my country for this so i think ill go with meteor as many dt riders in my country gave good reviews about them,
btw the gudgeon pin is not coming out what could lead to that? it gets stuck as soon as it comes to the groves of the securing locks -
@HOTSHOT-III i don't think i can find mitaka piston in my country for this so i think ill go with meteor as many dt riders in my country gave good reviews about them,
btw the gudgeon pin is not coming out what could lead to that? it gets stuck as soon as it comes to the groves of the securing locks@erion1 When you have a heat seizure, like the one you've experienced, you've caused undue stress to the piston gudgeon holes and ovalised it. You'll probably need a tool to extract it now.
I don't think you quite understand the severity of what happened...
Worked a treat for me and was no way I was getting my gudgeon wrist pin out without it.
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@erion1 When you have a heat seizure, like the one you've experienced, you've caused undue stress to the piston gudgeon holes and ovalised it. You'll probably need a tool to extract it now.
I don't think you quite understand the severity of what happened...
Worked a treat for me and was no way I was getting my gudgeon wrist pin out without it.
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@erion1 These? I didn't know there was such a brand TBH, just looked them up and the website looks good. Encouraging they're available in .25mm increments as you get potentially twice as many rebore sizes:
Interesting they also offer a different piston kit for the '94 to '04 DTR; both kits start at 56mm (so not sure if the 1st link refers to the '88 3DB DTR as these and the original 2RH TZR125 had a 56.4mm bore as standard) but other dimensions are slightly different so there must have been changes during the '89 onwards DTR production run. Can anyone shed any light on this? Comparing the two webpages seems to indicate .5mm difference from the top of the gudgeon pin hole to the piston crown:
I always ran Mitaka and was happy with them (as long as you get the Japanese ones) but they only seem to be available in .5mm increments now.
@HOTSHOT-III i found a piston that i can get my hands on easy
its called TKRJ they seem to be made in jappan but it lloks to be cheap so not sure if its very good -
@HOTSHOT-III i found a piston that i can get my hands on easy
its called TKRJ they seem to be made in jappan but it lloks to be cheap so not sure if its very good@erion1 Whereabouts in the world are you based, and what year is your bike?
If most DT owners near you are happy with Meteor pistons and you can get them easily I'd go with that.
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@HOTSHOT-III i found a piston that i can get my hands on easy
its called TKRJ they seem to be made in jappan but it lloks to be cheap so not sure if its very goodI think it’s caused by an Ill fitting piston ‘slapping’ around. It enlarges the hole where the pin is sitting, but creates a lip at the edges. That’s been my experience anyways
…Get a small flathead screwdriver and scrape around the hole where the clip sits. Or use wet and dry sandpaper. It’s not like you’re gonna use the piston again!
I kinda remember Meteor pistons from my past Lambretta and Vespa days. They were good I think…WHERE THE FUX YOU LIVE BUD?!
Italy?…
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I think it’s caused by an Ill fitting piston ‘slapping’ around. It enlarges the hole where the pin is sitting, but creates a lip at the edges. That’s been my experience anyways
…Get a small flathead screwdriver and scrape around the hole where the clip sits. Or use wet and dry sandpaper. It’s not like you’re gonna use the piston again!
I kinda remember Meteor pistons from my past Lambretta and Vespa days. They were good I think…WHERE THE FUX YOU LIVE BUD?!
Italy?…
@SpookDog no i live in kosovo but there are shops that have dt parts so it takes 1-2 days to get a piston, but if i want to order from mitaka or somewhere else it could take up to months, thats why im trying to see if any of u used them or have any experiences with meteor or anything as i have easy acces to them
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@erion1 Whereabouts in the world are you based, and what year is your bike?
If most DT owners near you are happy with Meteor pistons and you can get them easily I'd go with that.
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@HOTSHOT-III not sure about the year its a 4bl model 3mb head and 3mb00 cylinder
@erion1 You can find out the year of the bike using Yamaha France Parts Lookup as long as the frame has a VIN Number. They seem to have information on any Yamaha product sold in Europe, I've looked up UK bikes on there before:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-support/parts-catalogue/
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@SpookDog no i live in kosovo but there are shops that have dt parts so it takes 1-2 days to get a piston, but if i want to order from mitaka or somewhere else it could take up to months, thats why im trying to see if any of u used them or have any experiences with meteor or anything as i have easy acces to them
Fux! I don’t know what to recommend. I forget sometimes how spoilt we are ‘in the west’. I’d go with the meteor piston if I was you. I wouldn’t go back to the same place that did your last rebore though, if I could find somewhere else. Get them to measure the bore, then supply the piston that fits the rebore that they do. There should be no noticeable movement in the barrel…
If you just want to get mobile again desperately, get a decent NEW head and base gasket. Lap the top of the barrel and head with wet and dry sandpaper on a sheet of plate glass…
I’ve done worse, just don’t cane the beast…Wish I could help you more…
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@erion1 You can find out the year of the bike using Yamaha France Parts Lookup as long as the frame has a VIN Number. They seem to have information on any Yamaha product sold in Europe, I've looked up UK bikes on there before:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-support/parts-catalogue/
@HOTSHOT-III i don have a vin it only has a fin someone told me it would be easy with a vin
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Fux! I don’t know what to recommend. I forget sometimes how spoilt we are ‘in the west’. I’d go with the meteor piston if I was you. I wouldn’t go back to the same place that did your last rebore though, if I could find somewhere else. Get them to measure the bore, then supply the piston that fits the rebore that they do. There should be no noticeable movement in the barrel…
If you just want to get mobile again desperately, get a decent NEW head and base gasket. Lap the top of the barrel and head with wet and dry sandpaper on a sheet of plate glass…
I’ve done worse, just don’t cane the beast…Wish I could help you more…
@SpookDog it was good when i got it at firs as long as i remember, as for the rebore i got a oversize piston first then sent them together for him to make them fit and the oversize was enough to remove all the scratches, i think that it is movin a slight bit bc of the worn out rings and that it made contact with the cylinder only on those 2 sides and the rings weared ore on those 2 sides and not it taps, hope you understand what i mean
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Bud! I’m guessing that the ‘scratch marks’ are spaced around the piston in 4 places?
This is because you reused a head gasket (worst 15 £-€ you never spent!) It’s called a 4 point heat seizure. If you look up inside of the piston, the inside of the crown will be black and scorched from the heat seizure. Whether you saw it on the temp gauge or not; it overheated…Other thing is the piston shouldn’t ‘click’ back and forwards if it’s the right size. Neither should you have that amount of blow by past the rings! I think that the person who did your rebore may of done you wrong…
I’ve used old bits to keep me on the road, but never as an end plan! Even then I rode it like a grandad, never above 5-6K max, never like a ‘yoof’…
What country are you in? Somebody might be able to recommend a good motorcycle engineer to help you move forwards…
You’re going to have to put in a proper fitting piston. Why quibble about a rebore?…
If you want to ride and enjoy your bike to the max. Just fix it please!… -
hey @SpookDog i was wondering if what happened could cause my crank bearing go bad as someone told me that, is there any way i can check that, i was thinkit that the water that got in caused corrosion on the bearing or something, i just don't want my engine to go boom haha
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hey @SpookDog i was wondering if what happened could cause my crank bearing go bad as someone told me that, is there any way i can check that, i was thinkit that the water that got in caused corrosion on the bearing or something, i just don't want my engine to go boom haha
What are the first 5 letters and numbers stamped into your frame (headstock) and engine block? (above clutch arm) …
The crank would rumble when you spin it, and feel ‘notchy’ if it was corroded or damaged.
Also with ‘normal’ wear the stator could be moved, it’d click slightly when gently shimmied with a flathead screwdriver. Or even by hand depending on how bad it is…
I’d be more worried about you crank if it’s as bad as you say!… -
What are the first 5 letters and numbers stamped into your frame (headstock) and engine block? (above clutch arm) …
The crank would rumble when you spin it, and feel ‘notchy’ if it was corroded or damaged.
Also with ‘normal’ wear the stator could be moved, it’d click slightly when gently shimmied with a flathead screwdriver. Or even by hand depending on how bad it is…
I’d be more worried about you crank if it’s as bad as you say!…@SpookDog i checked for play when i had it apart it was perfect no up down play slight side to side which is normal and as the bike drank my water before i was thinking it could have litle bit of water in the crank so yesterday i put some 2t oil on the tank for more lubrication on the crank and let it run for a bit so it gets lubed up and maybe prevent corrosion if it didn't happen already
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What are the first 5 letters and numbers stamped into your frame (headstock) and engine block? (above clutch arm) …
The crank would rumble when you spin it, and feel ‘notchy’ if it was corroded or damaged.
Also with ‘normal’ wear the stator could be moved, it’d click slightly when gently shimmied with a flathead screwdriver. Or even by hand depending on how bad it is…
I’d be more worried about you crank if it’s as bad as you say!… -
@SpookDog so you're saying i can rotate the stator if the crank is good, do you mean rotate with hand or with what, and can you explain a bit more what you mean by it would click when shimed with a screwdriver
You still have the barrel off yeah?
You should be able to rotate the stator easily by hand. It shouldn’t make any rumble noises or feel clicky/notchy when you turn it…If you gently lever the stator up and down it shouldn’t have any free movement. It might flex a bit if levered too much…
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You still have the barrel off yeah?
You should be able to rotate the stator easily by hand. It shouldn’t make any rumble noises or feel clicky/notchy when you turn it…If you gently lever the stator up and down it shouldn’t have any free movement. It might flex a bit if levered too much…
@SpookDog no i put everything together as i needed space in my garage and had no place to put the parts and im not runing the bike either so its gona be like that for a month as i don't got the money for the new stuf rn but i'll take it apart again to check that then, but that what you told me is to check the crank bearings right? not the rod bearing it could be good if i can check both of them if they are in good condition without spliting the cases
Thanks for the info!
