Rebuild, How to identify parts that need replacing?



  • Hey,

    I'm about to do a rebuild on my 2002 DTR. (Has the athena 170 kit from previous owner)
    The most I have done before is clean carbs and rebuild brake callipers, so something is bound to go wrong 🙂

    I plan to take everything as apart as I can take it and hope I can get it back together again. There are a few scattered and disparate guides for different parts of the dissamably which I plan to follow. One of my concerns is how I will identify what to replace and figure out what is wrong. I want to set the bike up for many years of life, with me (hopefully) or another owner, so I'm happy to replace slightly more than neccessary, but don't want to be ordering the entire catalogue of spares if possible.

    The mechanic who last looked at the bike said something about crank bearings and that he could "wiggle" it/them with his hand, he wasn't that informative, but he didn't charge for the diagnosis and I opted to push the bike home rather than start a long spending spree with him. The guy's spanner skills are far better than his English, so I don't know how much more I can get out of him. I know diagnosis of anything isn't something you can teach with a 5 step process, but does anyone have any tips other than "look for things that look wrong"?

    Common issues? Things that are good to replace?
    Other random rebuild tips?



  • Yeah what he said pretty much sums it up.

    There should be no up or down play in the crankshaft, only a fraction of side to side play, called big end float.

    If it were me, I'd go ahead and rebuild the lot.

    The mains are the costly part, to replace all the gearbox bearings, £20 for Koyo bearings...So it's just worth doing at that price.

    You will want decent Athena/Genuine gaskets. And some sump sealant which can be costly. The best sump sealant on the market is genuine VW, but at £90 a tube it's not exactly cheap.

    But you will need something decent to put the cases back together with.

    You don't need to do the clutch and springs, but then again, for the sake of £40 I'd just do them.

    If there is play in the crank then that may be coming from the connecting rod.

    You can spend lots, a little here. PJME offer great connecting rods with varying levels of quality.

    THis is something you will want to replace for sure.

    That's the only specialist bit that you won't be able to do yourself, PJME, or Yamaha Skellerns Cheltenham can do that for you. Yamaha charged me £30 for the rebuild, I supplied the parts.



  • @Uber_Beluga Buy a Hanes Manual for it!!! That will tell you everything you need to know ever.


  • Global Moderator

    @Calum I've always used Loctite stuff for the cases, seems pretty good.

    Think it's this one
    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LOCTITE-515-Anaerobic-flange-GASKET-sealant-GLUE-50-ML-B-B-04-2018/261831854946



  • Thanks for the advice guys. I'm going to put together a full list of parts that I need to order and come back to check with you.

    In terms of tools, I have a pretty standard set of tools available to me. Is there anything special I'm going to need that you don't find in a standard tool set? I don't have a spanner that can measure the torque of bolts, would I need one?



  • @Uber_Beluga you will definitely need a torque wrench mate and a flywheel puller



  • @andrewj1680 Yeah you have got to be careful with a torque wrench. The cases are ally and the standard bolts are very easy to snap.

    It's just a case of getting it tight but not too tight. Loctite is also a useful allie here 🙂

    Flywheel puller is a must though. I have used it for lots of different stff as well. Versatile.



  • @Uber_Beluga on the tool side of things an impact driver is worth getting the type you hit with a hammer.


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