DT125R FORUM

@SpookDog
why was that oil in your exhaust, is it from your oiltank reservoir that was gravity feeding?
that valve youve mentioned, how does it work, i mean how it is supposed to open or close

@Calum
okay, will do that later when the carb is complete

Hello Riders,
do you know of any part that is (in new condition) no longer available for sale?
Please post parts that you know are no longer available for sale. This could be helpful for people thinking about restoring/buying a DT.

As far as I know:

• Tank

• Seat

• Airbox-to-Carb Connection

• Frontbrake Cover(rear)

• Frontlight covering

• list item

• list item

Please correct me if I´m wrong with something, best would be with a link to the seller/item. I will edit or add to this post, as editing after some time, is not possible, atm.

I found new informations, here are the essential tightening torques:
Float chamber screws: 2.0 Nm
Main jet: 2.0 Nm
Slide cover screws: 2.0Nm
Screw slide lever: 3.5Nm
Drain screw: 2.0Nm

carb housing gasket at https://www.gasketguru.co.uk/

Also i found the throttle-spring at http://www.motocarb.com/tm-parts.html

still looking for the nozzle assembly

@Calum

can you allow to edit posts, then I could reformat opening post and edit this infos? could be nice for others also looking for parts and stuff

@SpookDog
Yes, precisely because it is difficult to estimate, I always use a torque wrench on my rides to tighten if possible and the values ​​from the manufacturer are available
Mikuni manuals do not have this info apparently

I guess 5nm would be max for the m4 screws, and about 3nm for the brass stuff, but official data would be nicer

@SpookDog
yes the spring, rubber parts and piston are available at mikuni

Just found it out

The plunger has to be pulled down firmly

Then the parts are separated

@SpookDog

But spare parts are available, I bought the rubber ring from Mikuni and it wouldn't make any sense

I could think of cutting the old ring and pushing the new one over the thread up to the position, but think that's not the right way

@SpookDog

Now in hindsight I remember the choke's nut was loose
I didn't pay any attention to that, maybe that could be the cause of the air leak you mentioned.

**Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled/greased during assembly?

What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?**

How it dissasemble this?

I want to change the seal ring

@SpookDog
Danke sehr

After that I cleaned the airbox and put a new and oiled filter in there.
Then I opened the carb, 5 screws were done and had to be drilled out, was a 2 hour pain in the ass work, I will use better screws with hexagon drive soon
I wondered how clean the carb was inside
The housing parts etc. are now ultrasonic cleaned and the spare parts available are ordered

Do the gaskets for the housing parts have to be oiled during assembly?

What would be the correct torque for the housing screws?

@SpookDog
going to stock jets is no messing around I think
the inlet looks okay
I bought it years ago, rode it for 2 month without anything unusual and put it to a six year sleep, till now.

The idea of this start was to burn in the new exhaust paint, check if the cooling system that I partly redid was proof and get the motor warm for an oil change after

I let it run for ca 20 min till the cooling system was leaking on a hose

This run was with the 6+ years old crumbling airfilter, what I realised only later

im from ger

Thanks for your replies
I put a rust-inhibiting primer on it, planning on using paint and a layer of clear coat afterwards. I hope it won't rust anytime soon

@SpookDog
can you put pictures of that blocked valve up here?

Still dont know how to disassemble it, started de-rusting as good as possible so far

Anyone knows for what the little screw on the back is?

mikuni topham should have it if its the mikuni carb

@Calum

That might be possible.
I didnt check the airfilter before starting the long time sleeper
After opening the airbox I found the filter was crumbling apart
I could image that this was causing it, but wouldnt that mean less air instead?
Even after opening the carb and realising its not even slightly dirt in there Iam wondering what caused the high idle rpm

maybe carb itself leaking?
I have ultrasonic cleaned all the parts, will redo all screws, hoses and gaskets and check again

Whats the correct main and idle jet, is 240 and 25 okay?

Hi, I want to change the jets because I dont know whats in there at the moment
The whole bike was not used for 6 years, it startet after the third kick, but it was idleing at 5000 rpm and I couldnt get it down
and it was dying with too much gas-pull, also the gas was hanging a bit in the end position

What is the full range you mean?

At Mikuni and Yamaha dealers it is out of stock and no longer available

Found a supplier, that has the specs, nearly equal the original spring I hope

While Im at it, what would you suggest to get for carburetor adjusting
for a "stock" 4BL that has no more known restricted parts?
main jets in 230,240,250? others?
which idle jets?

Hello,

does anyone know where to buy a new Throttle-Spring?
I mean the big one that is at the end of throttle cable and goes into the carb.