DT125R FORUM

No worries guys. Octane rating does not change. Here in Belgium we use these fuels for years. There has always been some ethanol in fuels, they just never labeled it that way. Over here the best thing we got 98 octane with a E5 rating for our oldtimers and 2 strokes. The only thing you need to take in mind is to have ethanol proof fuel lines. Most lines available on the market now are. I just replace all mine with E85 proof ones. Never had any issues even when running E10.

I replace mine for the same reason with a China made one from Adelin, and since my master brake cylinder kept leaking, I replaced it with a radial master cylinder from the same brand to have a matching set of levers.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32993742993.html?spm=2114.12010612.8148356.48.72b672719qxsxX

Could be found on ebay aswell for higher prices but faster shipping.

@SpookDog Ooh didn't know it works like that. Very good to know thanks! Will digg into it to see if I can check the gap.

Update on the spark plug:

This is with the oil pump adjuster turned all the way in = most slack and least amount of oil.
I noticed one drip on the cam but no oil in the casing.
Could the pump be sending too much oil in any way due to wear?
I might look into a rebuild if that's the case.

This weekend, I tipped out the remaining oil in the reservoir and replaced it with something suitable for direct injection from Motul.
I did a short ride to get the old oil left in de tube trough and ready for further testing.
This is what my spark plug looked like before switching oils.

And yes I gave some more slack on the cable for the pump because it looked too rich on oil for me dripping onto my brakes after 15min of riding didn't make me feel safe.

I will check what it looks like right now later today.

@SpookDog I have turned the cable all the way in now. Will re-adjust after putting in the new oil and running it for a bit. Thanks

@Darty Thanks for the extra tip. Seems ok, I replaced it as soon as I got it because I trust no one telling me it had a full service anyway
Still at the full level and the same nice red color visible trough the inspection window as when I put it in.

He probably topped it up with some left overs telling me it's all good. Happy to see some expert toughts of you guys, thanks!
I'm always curious and supprised to see that some internal modding has been done. Not sure if it's all that positive for performance but just want to make sure it's running happy and safe.

Yeah I tought it has been modded too because with the ignition on I read that some had set it up aligned to the port and some to the exhaust but when I checked it, it seems flush on both sides. Any reason why people do this? I mean it's a moving part anyway and open when needed. Might not close as much as it should then for low rpm torque?

@DTR-NSR The dripping is at the end of the muffler dripping onto my wheel flinging it arround and dripping on my brake caliper after about 1 hour of riding. Forgot to mention that sorry. Hope that switching to oil suitable for direct injection will fix that too.

Hi @declan, thanks for the input! I was worried it would need a new top end. Of course the bills are not proof that he actually installed it. But the gaskets look new to me. The bike has 18k km right now and 800km on the 'new' piston. I will swap the oil first. The walls have been honed but stock piston rings are used. Maybe an oversize is required to seal that tiny bit more. I could do a compression check to find that out if anyone knows what numbers i should aim for?

@Calum So are you suggesting nothing seems off here?
Maybe use some better quality oil?
The previous owner topped it off so no idea what was in it.
What about the marks on the cilinder wall?

Hello to all,

Today i wanted to check my powervalve to see how it was set up. It was flush with the port and with the exhaust so I assume it was dremmeled out?

The bike rides fine and pulls nicely.
However I noticed that my exhaust would drip some oil from time to time but now i see the cause.
I bought the bike with proof of a new piston,honing service, gasket set and top end bearing install but this does not look like it's done correctly.
He said he had not ridden it, just to test to see if it was al good. I personally put less then 1000 miles on the engine and not driving it hard.

I assume the rings do not properly seal and that a new cilinder ans piston would be the right thing to do.
What do you guys think?

Nice list! Has anyone ever fit Moto Master discs? The flame discs look so awesome. Size and holes do match, just not sure if it will work.