Plenty of “Pattern Parts” as we used to say available made in china on eBay and the likes, for £20-30 I don’t think you can go wrong. I’ve just bought a 30 and 32mm PWK copies to try on my TDR, I’ve only tested the 30mm so far and can’t tell the difference between that and standard but that’s only warming the bike up in the garage. Need to take it for a run but the roads are shite. Ideally I’d like to run them on a Dyno but again I’ve not got one of them to hand. I spoke to Mick Abbey before Christmas on what size carb to run with a 170 Athena top end, and he said just buy a one of these carbs as you can’t go wrong, as you’d spend more on Jets when you can just swap the carb if it’s not working.
If you want original look on eBay and pay through the nose for someone else’s 30 year old tat and find yourself in the same position come set up. Look up ZSDTRP Carbs I know people knock the Chinese but they are a legit business and they are in the market to make stuff work not just for show.
Scootjockey
Posts
-
Dt125x carb replacement -
Headlight dims when brake light is on?…@SpookDog
3 phase is totally different and thankfully you won’t find this on a motorbike or car for that matter. It’s all to do with the phase cycle and how it’s produced. Normal house wiring is single phase using 2 wire with 1 as a return path (Neutral) 3 phase uses 3 wires with neutral. Singe phase produces energy at 90’ and 270’ where 3 phase produces energy out of sinc at 120’ and therefore more constant over the 3 wires. -
Headlight dims when brake light is on?…@SpookDog
I wouldn’t recommend disconnecting the battery and seeing how things run as the alternator can kick out high voltages that will damage the electrics. The battery not only provides power when you need it for starting and power valves but as a buffer to soak up excess voltage. It there to smooth the voltage. If you’ve installed a bigger battery you may have already damaged the system as the bigger battery will draw bigger current (Amps) and damage the charging circuit. Which will in effect change the tolerances so when your system was putting out 14v it could start putting out 18-20v which will kill the battery and the electrics. -
Headlight dims when brake light is on?…@SpookDog
Ere not sure where your getting your info from, but all the lights on your bike and all cars n bikes for that matter are DC voltage. The engine and generator will produce an AC voltage and then this goes through the regulator/rectifier and converts that to a DC voltage.As the crank turns this generates power, as an AC voltage and this could be anywhere between 20-40 VAC and is no good for us and needs to be smoothed and converted to 12-14VDC for the lamps relays power valves and electronics to work.
On tick over the headlight brake lights etc will work and flicker to an extent and when you rev the bike the generator produces more power and this is converted into DC power. As such your lights will increase in brightness. This isn’t a bad thing it’s just that the system will have say 15-20% in built tolerance and worse case scenario 12v plus 20% will be 14.4v which is enough to brighten your lamps. If your making 13.5v this can go upto 16-17VDCIf your really concerned make sure your battery is fully charged and connected, then measure the voltage of the battery with everything turned off. Then measure the voltage with the ignition turned on lights off, then turn the lights on, side, then high beam and pass light, you should see the voltage drop from 13.5VDC to possibly 11.5VDC depending on the state of your battery. Then do the same with the bike running all of the reading you have measured earlier can increase by 15-20%.
If the voltage increase is by more than that, to say 14-18VDC it could be that your rectifier is failing and not reducing the input voltage enough for everything to work OK within tolerances. I don’t know exactly but it does say in the Haynes manual what the tolerances are and advises for replacement if parts are not within these tolerances. But if my lights were on but low on tick over and brightened when the revs picked up I wouldn’t be that bothered.
But bear in mind don’t compare anything electrical on bikes from 20-30 years ago to bikes now as components and tech have jumped leaps n bounds since than. With the use of LEDs bikes and cars only need a quarter of the power that was needed years ago. I’ve got 5 batteries on charge on rotation and over the winter with the cold weather just after a few days these can drop from 13.2v to 12v. -
So Close!...@Calum
I know what you mean those welds are a work of art that should be in a picture frame ! -
So Close!...@SpookDog
Must admit that pipe looks bitchin, I love the bare metal with welds on display. Quality stuff. Your bike will be running better because it will be able to breath better (exhale) with the new pipe. Must admit I’m itching to get out on the TDR but the council vandals have been out and covered the roads in salt so I’m praying for rain to wash it all away and sunny days. -
Got Big One Exhaust need adapter to go on DEp system@primal-carnage
The last photos I uploaded I took with my iPhone airdropped them to the iPad then clicked on the last photo image on the top of the message under the header and uploaded them. But can I hell do it again -
Got Big One Exhaust need adapter to go on DEp system@primal-carnage
Is the big one expansion pipe too big diameter or is the DEP tail pipe too big so that you would need to install a collar ? Or is it the other way round ? I know from experience I bought an “old” DEP full system and the tail pipe was in a poor state so ordered a new tailpipe and when I went to fit it, it was too small to slide onto the connecting pipe of the expansion pipe. As I later found DEP have changed the design an you can’t mix n match the old and new systems. If your looking for an insert collar try this kinda thing on Alibaba. If you know the diameter of the two pipes you may find an external/internal reducer ?
Spend some time looking on this site as it’s in china and they supply everything for anything -
So Close!... -
So Close!... -
So Close!... -
So Close!...Dunno if this will work but the Japanese exotica arrived last month
-
So Close!...203675742903 On eBay is that what your looking for ?
-
So Close!...@SpookDog
Try WWW.ALEADO.COM
it’s a Japanese broker a bit like eBay, but you give them the money open an account bid on the item and the seller sends it to them and they forward it on to you in the UK. Usually see older better parts for sale. There not always cheap but you find they are better condition. Also change your country setting on eBay if you use that… always find parts are better from France and Germany ! -
So Close!...One on eBay at the moment ref 165784055445. £75 including the helmet lock for a DT125R I think they changed the frame in 1996 and onwards.
-
So Close!...@SpookDog
I take it your frame doesn’t have the rear sub frame attached ? Earlier 80’s models the frame goes round in a continuous bend. Later models had a bolt on rear subframe which have a kink above the exhaust to allow you to hold on to the rear of the bike. The 2002 DT125R I bought for my son didn’t have the rear subframe or shopping rack, common practice is to junk them and jack the rear mudguard up to give the bike the Crosser look, mind you both replacements were purchased on eBay for about £100 each from memory. And hens teeth to get hold of. Neither of them were straight and took a bit of manhandling to get right. Look up on fowlers parts for the year/model of frame and if you need a sub frame it will be displayed on that page. Sometimes it’s pictured with the rear mudguard. -
Spoke/Wire Wheels for a TDR@SpookDog
Standard front is 18 and rear 17 for the TDR. I’ve got a set of DT hubs and will get some rims made up with them but the info I’m after is has anyone done this and what issues did they encounter, around spacers bearings spindle size etc -
Speedo videoVideo unavailable… you just want me to watch porn don’t you ?!? Lol
-
Speedo cable and magneto on wheel@primal-carnage
Are you running original clocks ? Just the Speedo drive is located at the front spindle. Some aftermarket clocks run a sensor on the fork leg and as you say a magnet on the rim or spokes. -
Spoke/Wire Wheels for a TDRHas anyone used spoked wheels for a TDR125 ?? I know the earlier 90’s Belgarder TDR ran with ones as standard. But they are hens teeth to find. Any info or advice greatly appreciated. Cheers