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Engine Related

  • Home Made Quick-Lube YPVS Powervalve Cables

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    @HOTSHOT-III Bud, thank you! I can get the PV working on the tizzer now for not to much money. The length of those (impossible to find!) cables wouldn’t of last a winter without lube ports at the highest point! Plus stainless cables! …
  • DTR Water Pump SVG

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  • DTR Transmission SVG

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  • DTR Tachometer SVG

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  • DTR Starter SVG

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  • DTR Shift Shaft SVG

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  • DTR Shift Cam SVG

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  • DTR Radiator SVG

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  • DTR Oil Pump SVG

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  • DTR Generator SVG

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  • DTR Crank/Piston SVG

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  • DTR Crankcase Cover SVG

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  • DTR Crankcase SVG

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  • DTR Clutch SVG

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  • DTR Carburettor SVG

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  • Gearbox Bearings

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  • Yamaha DT175 Break-In Period and Possible Air Leak?

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  • Ypvs servo motor

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    @Carl-Kennedy hello, I had the same problem. Found out that someone ripped out the mechanical gears out of it, you can try that. And if you happenned to have them, could you please tell me the dimentions of the gears? Thanks
  • dt 200 bogs

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  • Engine missfires over 6000 RPM.

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    HOTSHOT IIIH
    @HannesDTX Check all the things @calum said, plus are you sure you've done a FULL carb clean? A lot of people just put them in an ultrasonic cleaner for half an hour and expect to bolt them back on. Doing this doesn't sort the blocked emulsion tube which is a leading cause of DTRs refusing to rev out beyond 6000rpm, precisely the symptoms your bike has. Do a full carb clean including the emulsion tube (the brass tube the main jet screws into). A lot of people (including bike shops) miss this and don't realise it comes out because you have to screw the main jet back in without the brass washer and tap it gently to remove it from the carb body. The space between this and the carb body gets blocked with moisture, dirt etc and blocks more and more holes in the tube (which is how the air atomises the fuel) until it just starts fourstroking and won't rev out one day as this controls the mid-throttle fuelling. Just chucking it in an ultrasonic cleaner usually isn’t enough; you have to actually remove everything from the carb body, physically make sure all the jets and air passages are clear, then reassemble. Make sure the air supply to the emulsion tube is clear as well, it's the small brass tube on the right of the carb body just in front of the carb-to-airbox rubber. You should be able to blow through it, but only just.