Break in new cylinder
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I don't think I've really actively bled the coolant system on any of my builds. Fire her up rad cap off, just top it up. Quick blip round the block top her up jobs a goodun
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@calum you think it's possible to glaze the bore of a plated cylinder? (Nikasil)
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@irongamer727 Yes
@calum got dammit. I just want to start the bike, listen to it, set the idle and bleed the coolant. I have had it running for roughly 20 minutes on idle before so now I'm thinking of waiting until the snow disappears and then start braking it in.
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@calum got dammit. I just want to start the bike, listen to it, set the idle and bleed the coolant. I have had it running for roughly 20 minutes on idle before so now I'm thinking of waiting until the snow disappears and then start braking it in.
@irongamer727 Don't worry so much about it. Just go out and ride it. It's not going to cause it any harm.
Glazing the bore is going to happen if you literally build a fresh engine, then take the engine to the max non stop for the next thousand miles. You're talking about shortening the life of a two stroke whose top end should be rebuilt every 10k anyhow. So it really makes no odds. Stop worry about it so much.
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In theory, would a new cylinder and piston be run in after non stop 500 km riding. (We're assuming the engine runs rich with plenty of oil and is ridden carefully) or would it need some cooling down at times?
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In theory, would a new cylinder and piston be run in after non stop 500 km riding. (We're assuming the engine runs rich with plenty of oil and is ridden carefully) or would it need some cooling down at times?
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@irongamer727 providing you have done your heat cycles and that the ride in question isn’t it’s first ride then I see no reason why you shouldn’t be able to without letting it cool down
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@declan I'm meaning the first ride. No heat cycles involved
@irongamer727 then no I wouldn’t advise it
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I've never seen anything scientific about heat cycling after a bore job, so I wouldnt worry about that one.
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Me neither. I'll probably try to start the brake in today. But my aim is to cover ~50km.
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@Calum what's your opinion on a non stop 500km brake in? Would it work?
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@Calum what's your opinion on a non stop 500km brake in? Would it work?
@irongamer727 I literally wouldn't know.
The science behind breaking in engines has been thoroughly researched and millions of pounds has gone into R&D for this sort of thing.
I would read up on what big manufacturers say on the best way to run engines in. I personally justify my break in with how I feel. And feelings don't really provide much solidarity for this kind of thing.
I like the idea of gentle run ins with heat cycles cause it gives the opportunity for the metal to distort and contract and distort. Taking out any high points in the expansions.
But that's just a feeling rather than facts.
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@Calum what's your opinion on a non stop 500km brake in? Would it work?
@irongamer727 I suppose ultimately it’s down to what you want to do and it doesent sound like you want to break it in the “normal” way but for the sake of 30 minutes worth of heat cycles at most and two rides round the block why risk it it’s not only to get the metals nice and used to the heat and friction but to check for leaks bogs rattles scrapes etc etc putting the bike straight to work will most likely be okay but that will mean that when your in traffic focusing on not get rear ended there could be a knock leak or scrape that you fail to pick up on that you normally would have noticed during heat cycles but this is all my beliefs just like Calum
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I've always done about 5 heat cycles then a gentle ish ride before riding normal, never had any of my rebuilds seize or fail, obviously you don't wanna be holding it wide open for 2 or 3 rides but don't be afraid to accelerate, with a good forged piston and a few heat cycles you won't cause any harm.
