What's missing here?
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It goes through the cleaning cycle ok when I turn the ignition on, but does sound lethargic doing it. so that would be a new servo/motor thats needed? To be fair I've not tested the battery either, so not sure what kind of condition thats in. That could affect it too couldn't it?
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@Pablo13 Yeah but on some CDI's it will retard the valve at certain RPM.
That engine should rev out hard all the way to the red line.
The best way to eliminate it not being the powervalve is to align the valve up through the exhaust port, then disconnect the servo. And take it for a test ride. Bottom end should be lost, but past 6K it should pull hard to 12k
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So, check the green black wire is grounded and stick a finger in my exhaust is the next port of call?
Cheers for the help btw guys
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So, check the green black wire is grounded and stick a finger in my exhaust is the next port of call?
Cheers for the help btw guys
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Its not the valve. I took the exhaust off and aligned the valve, unplugged the servo and it was still the same at the top. What should I look at next?
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Yeah still going flat in the higher rpms. Maybe the coil is weak. No plug chops yet, but I stuck a new one in a few weeks back ngk 8 i believe. Also along with a new air filter as it just ticked over 24km.....about 15k miles. Snorkel is in. Problem has been there before the service too. Would be nice to get to the bottom of it
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Yeah still going flat in the higher rpms. Maybe the coil is weak. No plug chops yet, but I stuck a new one in a few weeks back ngk 8 i believe. Also along with a new air filter as it just ticked over 24km.....about 15k miles. Snorkel is in. Problem has been there before the service too. Would be nice to get to the bottom of it
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Just an aftermarket exhaust and a 240 main jet I stuck in, that's it. So compression test next?
@Pablo13 What exhaust you running?
Most manufactures stipulate sticking with 210 main jet, despite the uprated exhaust.
I don't know the figures that constitute acceptable levels for the compression test.
I would look at the electrics first.
If the engine sounds sweet, then chances are it is.
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@Pablo13 Yeah something isn't right. But 93, if it's the original electrics, then I'd swap out the coil, and HT lead for a new one.
If it's still causing issues then it can only be the CDI, pickup or engine.
Unless someone else wants to chime in, I can't see what else it could be.
The fueling shouldnt be far off.
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If it's running lean or seems to be at high revs, there are five simple things to try.
Float level, is it getting enough fuel?
Tank cap, is the vent blocked or partially blocked cause fuel starvation?
Fuel tap, is it opening fully and is it and it's filter clean?
There is an inline filter in the brass pipe in the top of the carb, is it blocked?
Air filter, is it very dirty or over oiled as too much fuel is as bad as too little?
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All good ideas there thanks
Float level was set when I changed the needle stop as it was pissing out fuel from the carb when I got the bike, but sadly the problem was present before.
Tank cap Is a good shout, Ill take a look at that and the filters once the fuel level gets lower.
Air filter is new and not particularly over oiled, but again its been doing it with this one and the previous filter so can rule them out.
Ordered a new coil, HT and cap anyway. Possible the one on the bike is 25 years old, so cant hurt
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@Pablo13 That rules out somethings, but the real test is under load. That's where the problems will become apparent.
i would definitely whip the cylinder off and see whats going on for the sake of a new piston and small end and a gasket set ... probably would have been my first shout and check for wear around the ports if you have tried everything else but it does sound like a electrical or cdi issue ... 240 main is best for dtr if you are running a aftermarket exhaust but its a tad rich so i always run without a snorkle never had a problem in the rain ect ....
