My DT125 80s Yz style DT200 build one to watch!

[mhbikesnbits]

This post is deleted!

[mhbikesnbits]

More work to the engine barrel and head cleaned every engine component now finished cleaned ready for powder coat

[NINJA]

@mhbikesnbits Shiny!!! :thumbs_up_medium-light_skin_tone:

[mhbikesnbits]

Finished the power valve cover apart from paint which mine will be black and polished text

Fitted on my spare 125 engine off the project

[mhbikesnbits]

Just thought I’d post this

[declan]

@mhbikesnbits so sweet and your spare engine looks better than my good engine

[mhbikesnbits]

@declan lol going to be for sale I think soon

[mhbikesnbits]

Bottom triple clamp cleaned ready for a polish

[NINJA]

@mhbikesnbits What/how are you cleaning up these parts bud? They all look mint!!! :thumbs_up_light_skin_tone:

[mhbikesnbits]

@NINJA I vaqua blast them, which in a nutshell is high pressure water and glass particles nothing cleans better

[mhbikesnbits]

Thinking a satin chrome finish for the
shock linkage what’s people’s opinion on it example of the finish is below

[NINJA]

@mhbikesnbits Satin chrome paint would look good. Is that from a rattle can? I resprayed mine in a gloss black paint and although they look good, once fitted TBH they do chip easily. Mostly due to their location on the bike, being vulnerable to stones and salt, plus ease of rear suspension reassembly. Paint is fine but I would suggest that a powered coat might be more durable???

[declan]

Just painted mine tonight I’d recommend powder coat where ever you can it’s just the best

[Calum]

Powdercoating is great for resilience.

But the finish isn't always the best. For things on show, can't bet 2 pack paint. Fot things that need protecting, powdercoat.

[mhbikesnbits]

@NINJA was thinking electroplated chrome, the coating should last years that way but if I was to paint I would go with powder coat

[NINJA]

@mhbikesnbits Chrome is cool but very expensive, especially compared to paint or powered coat. Plus once chipped or damaged it will need a full re-chrome, which again is not cheap and takes a few weeks out of your riding time. Personally I would just paint them, at least that way if those parts gets damaged its an easy fix which you can perform yourself relatively cheaply. :winking_face: :grinning_face_with_smiling_eyes: :winking_face:

[mhbikesnbits]

@declan I agree I like powder coat but it’s got to be done by the right person or I don’t think it lasts very good and chips easy, Ive powder coated pretty much everything on the bike as I like how it strong it is, I also have a good powder coater who is into bikes and restoration himself so I know he knows what the crack is,

As a little experiment I’m also going to ceramic coat everything painted on my bike too like they use on cars when detailing before it’s fitted on the bike as to see if gives it even more protection

[mhbikesnbits]

@Calum i also like 2pac I spray that a lot where I work probably my second choice if i didn’t go with powder coat also always wanted to try cerakote heard great results with that too

[NINJA]

@mhbikesnbits 2k paint is far superior to regular cellulose paint. Pretty much all rattle cans are only 1K cellulose paint. 2K is more durable and also chemical resistant, so it's much more robust and provides a superior finish to protect your parts. If you have a compressor and can mix paint then I'd go for the 2K, use Zinc primer on non-aluminum parts and a self etch primer on Ali parts, for even more protection and longevity. Or if you have a friend or good body shop nearby then get a professional to do it. But like I said think long term and what will be the simplest and cheapest solution if your parts ever need repairing in the future. :winking_face: :winking_face:

[mhbikesnbits]

Busy life = lack of progress, however have blasted last couple of bits for the engine ready for powder coating and plastics to be rattle canned

I have vaqua blasted the plastic parts as it leaves a nice key like you would get off shot blasting metal perfect for spraying