Yamaha DT125R '01 - Running Project
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@Biker_123 DXF files were drawn using Solid Works, I'm not sure what programs you might have to open these, but send these to any good company and they should know what's going on.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6aropyq2sjczw0z/Tie Bar 130mm x 6mm 1.dxf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bj1uprutg8im74/TIE BAR 120mm x 6 Reform1.DXF?dl=0
Enjoy!
Next up is a custom intake, really needed I reckon 32-36mm intake,
Will put up a plan after I get it made
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What an awesome build man im loving this! top job m8y
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@Biker_123 DXF files were drawn using Solid Works, I'm not sure what programs you might have to open these, but send these to any good company and they should know what's going on.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/6aropyq2sjczw0z/Tie Bar 130mm x 6mm 1.dxf?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0bj1uprutg8im74/TIE BAR 120mm x 6 Reform1.DXF?dl=0
Enjoy!
Next up is a custom intake, really needed I reckon 32-36mm intake,
Will put up a plan after I get it made
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How did you make the bracket for the front brake
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How did you make the bracket for the front brake
@vtrn_raptor Hand sawed. filed, and machine sanded, you will need a Pillar drill!
I've only got a sketch you can follow, dimensions are rough and only for a YZF125 caliper that was modified. should be 68.5mm of the fork. I use 15mm spacers now of the hanger.
I started with NEV's example for a DTX caliper, and modified the fitments. If you have a DTX caliper then NEV's dimensions should be on point for you.
Create mock-ups and check your offset position thoroughly, CNC Steel alloy is a better option than ally.
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I really need to find someone who can make me one for the standard dt brake caliper as I don't have to tool to do it myself:(
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Hi, Thank you.
Yeah.. a Zeely would be nice to be honest.
I have followed your project for a while and it is very impressive, I have had my DT for a couple of years now. And yeah completely stock (De-restricted) of course, has been the best performance so far. And to answer the question of the Pre -94' CDI vs Later years 99' on bikes. Well. It's pretty close between them haha. Good times.
A little note, the older 3 wire DT's have a much more raw engine noise on tick over. Yamaha redesigned the stator motor with much else after 99'. Older models really have the right engine noise. Exhaust noise very much the same for all models on a DEP though, no missing out.
Jeez. You should see the state of it now 7,000 miles later. I rode it hard. It is need of a full restoration. Mechanically supreme however. The fit and finish is the last thing I can be bothered with.
Hard hit.
Yes. The Lanza. I've seen only ever seen about 3 or 4 on eVil bay. They were never really imported here much by anyone it looks like. I know Yamaha never sold em in the UK- like the DT200R(3ET). I could never find any parts. I am considering a DT200R Alloy swinger - from Australia.. That is the easiest weight saving option out there I think. But not sure. I want the wheel base to be a bit longer on it really, so an extra 2" of YZ alloy or WR and fettling time seems a more pleasing upgrade, but where do you stop. I cant make my mind up.
Yeah still got my eyes on any TDR - TZRR stuff at the moment. It is getting the bigger inlet that would be a score for me.
Anyway, I'll keep from talking about it and get some updates up here. I'll see if there is anything useful I know.
Quickly as well, do you rate Mick Abbey tuning? Your barrel looked good but I don't want to rework anything.
Thanks for the links.
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@Darty hello
would you say IGNITECH was a good upgrade and where do you buy itgot a dtre x 2005
@aidan1996 I recommend it, try and learn a bit about Ignition Timing and Powervalve setup before you buy to make the most of it.
Ignitech systems are made to order, so just send them an Email and state your desired Model and/or loom type.
Keep it real
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@aidan1996 I recommend it, try and learn a bit about Ignition Timing and Powervalve setup before you buy to make the most of it.
Ignitech systems are made to order, so just send them an Email and state your desired Model and/or loom type.
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Some little bits.
Removing material to clear the flanged nut I'm using off the fork leg for the correct position. Renewed this bit a while ago, the YZF carrier is not the best idea.
Finished setup for now, Lathed up 16mm Brass spacers and fitted together with 10.4 HT bolts.
98' YZ 250 1/4 throttle with billet alloy throttle tube, is plush like em snappy
New ceramic resistor.
Trying to keep Jap with a Denso W27ES-U plug. £1.70!
Call me the 'Artful bodger' Ran into some issues just using a capacitor to run the Ignitech. So strapped in ol' faithful in what's left of the only space available on the bike.
Slowly rebuilding my TM32. Sanded, wet sanded and polished internals.
Satisfied like glass. Giving a helping hand to the inevitable ingress of dirt to be combusted.
Remounting the WR rad, cutting the thermostat housing down, deleting the oil tank cap fixture from the support and shortening the rear radiator outlet futher to clear the tank. Then moving the whole thing forward to sit flush and safe.
Having alot of fun tearing it about, led me to ignore a serious issue. After letting the chain eat my original WR200 chain guide and very good condition Delta-box swinger, it was time to go back and fit plan A.
Drilled and M6 taped new mounts. Didn't feel like sacrilege after fucking it over already.
I wanted to do this for ages, fitting a YZ/WR 98'-02' chain guide looked to fit in my head. Can now replace it without having to take the swinger off, and readily available to replace now, as WR200 and early YZ 1990-94' sliders are rare, or silly money new.
Ugraded to RFX slider in blue, made from a hard polypropylene instead of silicone rubber. Should do the trick.
Running the airbox door removed and older 3MB airbox tract now with a 450 Main jet can you believe. It's now absolutely perfect with peak power dropping away at about 10,900rpm. She sings. Ready for my new ported top end. Looking to go full road racer at 12,600rpm with the larger carb.
Shortened the chain, back on a Steel sprocket with a 45T 520, good for 80 again which was missed,
I always preferred the original clutch cases, got a nice oil pump housing design. Had to use my 4DL one.
Standard (left) vs EBC's heavy duty clutch spring. Good upgrade, firm clutch with a quicker release.
New EBC clutch plates a while back had trashed my gearbox oil, found this, cause race bike..
Threaded insert and bolt for oil pump delete, re-sharpened foot pegs and brake pedal from the trail bike days.
Keep it real
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Some little bits.
Removing material to clear the flanged nut I'm using off the fork leg for the correct position. Renewed this bit a while ago, the YZF carrier is not the best idea.
Finished setup for now, Lathed up 16mm Brass spacers and fitted together with 10.4 HT bolts.
98' YZ 250 1/4 throttle with billet alloy throttle tube, is plush like em snappy
New ceramic resistor.
Trying to keep Jap with a Denso W27ES-U plug. £1.70!
Call me the 'Artful bodger' Ran into some issues just using a capacitor to run the Ignitech. So strapped in ol' faithful in what's left of the only space available on the bike.
Slowly rebuilding my TM32. Sanded, wet sanded and polished internals.
Satisfied like glass. Giving a helping hand to the inevitable ingress of dirt to be combusted.
Remounting the WR rad, cutting the thermostat housing down, deleting the oil tank cap fixture from the support and shortening the rear radiator outlet futher to clear the tank. Then moving the whole thing forward to sit flush and safe.
Having alot of fun tearing it about, led me to ignore a serious issue. After letting the chain eat my original WR200 chain guide and very good condition Delta-box swinger, it was time to go back and fit plan A.
Drilled and M6 taped new mounts. Didn't feel like sacrilege after fucking it over already.
I wanted to do this for ages, fitting a YZ/WR 98'-02' chain guide looked to fit in my head. Can now replace it without having to take the swinger off, and readily available to replace now, as WR200 and early YZ 1990-94' sliders are rare, or silly money new.
Ugraded to RFX slider in blue, made from a hard polypropylene instead of silicone rubber. Should do the trick.
Running the airbox door removed and older 3MB airbox tract now with a 450 Main jet can you believe. It's now absolutely perfect with peak power dropping away at about 10,900rpm. She sings. Ready for my new ported top end. Looking to go full road racer at 12,600rpm with the larger carb.
Shortened the chain, back on a Steel sprocket with a 45T 520, good for 80 again which was missed,
I always preferred the original clutch cases, got a nice oil pump housing design. Had to use my 4DL one.
Standard (left) vs EBC's heavy duty clutch spring. Good upgrade, firm clutch with a quicker release.
New EBC clutch plates a while back had trashed my gearbox oil, found this, cause race bike..
Threaded insert and bolt for oil pump delete, re-sharpened foot pegs and brake pedal from the trail bike days.
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Excellent work @Darty !! Good to see you doing more work to this beast.. Kinda worried now incase my chains been eating into my wr swing arm i will need to check tomorrow I've just been using the DTR chain slider on the wr swing arm hope its all good as I've been using the bike 24/7 lol.. Don't fancy getting rid of the capacitator by any chance now your using a battery again!? My capacitator is lost in the woods somewhere obviously wasn't secured enough
Every problem has a solution
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Excellent work @Darty !! Good to see you doing more work to this beast.. Kinda worried now incase my chains been eating into my wr swing arm i will need to check tomorrow I've just been using the DTR chain slider on the wr swing arm hope its all good as I've been using the bike 24/7 lol.. Don't fancy getting rid of the capacitator by any chance now your using a battery again!? My capacitator is lost in the woods somewhere obviously wasn't secured enough
@Biker_123 I've been using mine to get to work everyday, such a laugh I had it jacked up to high, like a 93cm seat height through the chain geometry out, swing-arm was too big for front sprocket clearance it's alright otherwise.
shit man, get it bolted it under the seat xD I definitely got to hang on to my racing Capacitor, it was hand made from Greece
Keep it real
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@Biker_123 I've been using mine to get to work everyday, such a laugh I had it jacked up to high, like a 93cm seat height through the chain geometry out, swing-arm was too big for front sprocket clearance it's alright otherwise.
shit man, get it bolted it under the seat xD I definitely got to hang on to my racing Capacitor, it was hand made from Greece
@Darty No problem haha had me worried about my swingarm for a bit there
.. I'll need to pick up another capacitator my local motorbike shop does them but needs to order them in so takes a while! Oh for sure it'll be getting secured better this time round 
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Yamaha DT230 Lanza - Air Duct (4TP-14437-00)
Came all the way from Japan.
Keeping a controlled Air flow. Jetted, It works well with the 125R, highly recommended. All 170cc Kits should come with a larger duct.
Non existent Mikuni gaskets for TM32-34. So I made my own body gaskets.
Built a TM34 aswell to try in the future.
Full rebuild. A TM32 and 34 have the same bodys so I can tune with both without another custom inlet for now.
hmmm. Got one of my 3MB-P-00 barrels transfers cleaned and Ports re-worked and polished.
Off to get it Ported to a Top end tune, and having my 4DL P' cylinder head and Powervalve fettled with it.
Full chassis rebuild and paint, so maybe by next Summer, she's done. Maybe...
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The sooner it goes back together, the sooner it can be destroyed, that is what it's all about.
It just doesn't fit anymore, and fried the wadding in 3 weeks.
RIP. DEP system.
The worst thing is having a Taxed and Insured Motorcycle that looks like this. Chassis needs work.
I can also illustrate the knarly fucking dent to the frame rail I found a few years ago.
WTF... How do you even?
That impact has twisted the down tube, its almost imperceptible, but the engine mounts tell me it's all been effected. I have seen worse before though, much worse! So still a really good base to build on.
Off comes the old barrel, honing marks are still there.
It ran perfect all of it's life. I ruined the mixture towards the end. The Powervalve was completely coked up. If you maintain these things they will see 14,000 miles on a set of rings.
It did heat seize once, didn't last long and never had any-more trouble.
Found an unused WR400 headlight. What a score. Always fancied one.
Single bulb Enduro unit, so nothing special really.
WR vs RX, Not sure what I like more.
I found a good solution, 1987 YZ125 airboot.
Ready for a 34mm housing, so no more pod-filters, which are rubbish.
Ducati Brembo 4 pot caliper and Radial Master cylinder. Using a XT660X 320mm brake disc of my DTX hub, I will be able to sling the 4pot in there.
KPmotosolutions did a nice job. Ported, Port timings revised, Squish revised, crown re-machined, and powervalve revised. Tis a little beast.
All out for top end, It's a 134cc race tuned still to run on regular 97 octane. The Squish height is at 0.6mm. It's pretty extreme. I'm running a Wossner piston kit for some protection over detonation, Still good for a pounding, I except to blow it up.
The old Mitaka had created some damage before hand,
Mitaka vs Wossner. The quality of these forged pistons is really very good.
Shes going to run pretty good. I challenge a 170 kit to outperform this.
PowerValve clean up and modified with exhaust port.
Both a TZR125RR 4DL 3MB-P-00s, but one is a later Y-2 version with a Non Stamped head, which suggests it came of Belgarda TDR. It's a good baseline.
I've done a rough sketch of the port timings between the standard barrel and the reworked one.
I had the Top end blasted, and what a difference, worth doing for the money. Now I need an exhaust...
