Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR)
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It’s nice when you finally get it running proper after chasing gremlins
You got access to a borescope or the like? There has to be some hard deposit of carbon in there somewhere. How long the dep been running on there, also did it always chop?...That mot, legal feeling is a good high!
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@calum said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
@stevie-wonder The other nice thing about the DEP is the weight difference.
My personal favourite feature is itself lightening feature. 3,000 good U.K. miles and the metal will be half the thickness
Honestly though I always said the same thing but the standard pipe has a much wider power spread and even better puts that power where the DT needs it most.
With that being said I ride some pretty private locations and the lesser amount of noise only allows me to ride for longer / not piss others off. Bit of bonus.
Much better thermal properties to flow gasses too due to the extra thickness + the durability of the standard people would outweigh 10 dep pipes.I literally dropped the dep taking it off once and dented it. Pretty shambolic if you ask me. Shame. I always thought I’d massively support dep being a historic and British company.
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@spookdog said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
It’s nice when you finally get it running proper after chasing gremlins
You got access to a borescope or the like? There has to be some hard deposit of carbon in there somewhere. How long the dep been running on there, also did it always chop?...That mot, legal feeling is a good high!
No bore scope just fingers for feelers and eyes for seeing. No fancy stuff around here
(at least until I invest in one which no doubt I will all in good time, big believer in that investing in tools is investing in yourself/they pay for themselves).I’m still going to be scratching my head for a while as to why the dep didn’t work well for my bike. The only thing that I really can imagine is that the CDI map and powervalve openings is way of for the power curve of the dep pipe. However even then that wouldn’t cause the throttle chop I experienced. If you was full throttle in a long gear you’d often hear a rather nasty metallic ping as the throttle suddenly slammed off then on. Gross.
Also yes legal is so good!
I owe all of you a thank you in your hands in making it possible. It’s very surreal to see what I imagined come to life. It’s even better riding it and feeling just how much nicer the bike is for it.
However to be completely honest after leaving her in such a sorry state for 9 months I’m just genuinely happy to know she’s running and that I won’t ever have to do that again. -
@stevie-wonder said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
Fun fact every time I’ve took this bike for an mot it’s lost it’s plate. This year I used metal anodised fairing bolts and still it went missing. Ghosts mate.
If you point your number plate at police helicopters and UFO’s, it’s bound to be abducted now and again
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Still on the same piston she came from France with.
All I’ve done is keep her tidy, use decent oil and do regular checks on the plugs, Powervalve and replace a bunch of inline fuel filters. It gets a carb clean once a year but other then that she’s a diamond.I recently bought a fzs 600. Within three days I’d done a ton on it and I thought to myself I wonder if I’ll wanna sell the DT now
https://i.imgur.com/dtWKfQ1.jpg
Then I get her out for a blast, get down to bike night and remember how much I fucking love this thing.
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Hey everyone hope you’re all in good health.
It’s been a while since I’ve been about so it’s nice to hear from you all.Have you ever seen a DTR less out of place?
Life’s been keeping me busy and on top of that I’ve now got the luxury of using the ole DT as a weekend treat.
Luckily summer has granted me quite a few days to get the bike out.
And with miles of years old unexplored public footpaths and by ways accessible to a little two stroke trial bike it’d be a crime not to break a few laws and go on many a excursion with your bike in to the countryside for a little explore. Pro tip: farmers fields usually have ditches at the boundaries so prepare to get your enduro on.
Despite now using the DT as mainly a weekend toy I still don’t shy away from using it as my weapon of choice for a nice little long distance adventure. This is “A house for Essex by Grayson Perry” ft. My dad on his now long gone trusty varadero. The site is actually a beautiful quaint village with plenty of backroads and seafront nearby 10/10 recommend for all of you guys.
Also something a little different… Keeping things true and blue I couldn’t help myself, this is Maureen (in memoir of my nan) my ‘98 FZS600 streetfighter. My first “big bike” and let’s just say she’s an absolute dream to ride. Fairly nippy too.However I must as fast as the Fazer is the DT still puts a smile on my face every time I ride it so despite what anyone has said, it ain’t going anywhere.
And for anyone that’s read this and is genuinely curious she’s running like a champ on the same piston/rings etc she had when she was imported from France 2 years ago.
When she blows up it’ll be Wr200 or Lanza 230 engine time. Got a nice little piggy bank ready and waiting for it. -
Hi guys my bikes still running lumpy with an untunable hanging high idle. After speaking to a couple two stroke gurus and my local bike shop they all believe the same as me the LH crank seal is gone.
I’ve been riding it on and off as it is for a while now and the engines still making good power however I can’t stand it anymore.
To find out for certain if the seal’s gone and to see how the rest of the engine is doing I’ve just bought a Draper leak down kit and compression tester.
I’d like some advice with how to use the compression tester and leak down kit as well as any recommendations for tools that I should get/will need for this and for the future
Also can I remove and refit the LH seal without removing the motor?
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Also update with the build, I might not be able to run standard DTR clocks!
So WR450 speedo cables are the same 11mm size fitment I’ve found as DTR clocks (meaning in theory you should be able to use DTR clocks with, ‘03 WR450 speedo cable and speedo drive assy), however the speedo drive assy is on the opposite side on a WR450 compared to the DTR. This means that because the MPH clock for the DTR is also the opposite side making it so it’s impossible to cleanly route the speedo cable to the clocks without having the cable criss cross all other electronics and controls
I also found some 11mm cable extenders to use on the Rev cable to as the only issue in that department was the cable not being long enough to reach anymore however the first time I attached the cable extender to the Rev cable and then attached it to the clocks, I started the bike up and the cable snapped itself
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You can pull the seal out with a self tapper screw and tap the new one in. Gotta remove the flywheel though
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@SpookDog cheers for the reply bud, I had thought so but I’d thought best to check as Haynes wasn’t too useful
I’ve also got a few different size pic and hooks that might make light work of getting that seal out
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Only thing is that I can’t imagine why the seal would fail unless the bearing has as well. Check for movement with a large flathead screwdriver while the rotor is on. See if there’s play...
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To see if it's the LHS you just need to spray WD40 in the vicinity whilst it's running. If the idles drop then you've temporarily sealed it. Be careful removing the seal with the engine in situe as you don't want to score the crank or the journal.
Personally, it's easy enough to drop the engine and do it properly. No more than an afternoons work. Good opportunity to inspect/clean and replace other items.
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@Calum I’ll get the flywheel off tomorrow to try that and then I’ll get back to you.
It wouldn’t do me no harm to drop the engine either, an afternoon with the bluetooth speaker and a couple cold ones won’t sort out. If/when I do I’ll let you know if I hit any speed bumps. Any tips or advice when getting it out
@SpookDog that makes sense and I’ll be sure to check that as well.
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@Stevie-Wonder Before you start, see if the swinging arm pivot bolt can be removed. As you will see, this gets seized and may bring your plan to a halt anyway. Always worth removing, regreasing and replacing just for fun.
The other one is the bottom suspension linkage, neither problem I had since engine/parts are like a yo-yo in my bikes anyway
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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Update got a sealey comp tester and a few other bits and with the engine luke warm (i spent far too long fucking about trying to get the hose in the spark plug hole, it’s a bit fiddly and burny when your engines red hot
) and got a reading of 95 psi which was goodAlso I got the flywheel side cover off, get her running and sprayed some clutch and break / carb cleaner there expect to see the revs shoot a little and nothing happened if anything they dropped and settled for a short while after
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If you have an air leak the revs should ‘drop and settle’ to normal when you ‘spray block’ the leak. It should be instantaneous, but getting the fluid behind the flywheel into the seal is no mean feat. If it did settle, then I’d bet it’s leaking at the seal...
Have a powder fire extinguisher handy if you’re using brake/clutch cleaner around electricals, please bud!
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Want to hear a joke?
I just spent £200-300 on tools etc and quite a few hours messing about trying to find what was causing that revving issue. (I daily the bike so I’ve had to ride it like that to do my commute)
I then crash the bike (nasty highside, car turned into me doing 40-60 clipping my back wheel) only to start my bike up and have it fixed.
That’s it kids. Crash your bike it’ll fix it.
In all seriousness though be safe out there, don’t ever lose respect for the roads or what you ride.
I was coming home from work and luckily had protective clothing on. Didn’t stop me sliding the length of 4 houses and having two gaping holes in my ankle and elbow though.
link text
Not for the squeamish…link text
Protective trousers and steel toe shoes capped saved the same thing happening there.
Found the supplier for the indicator as it turned out ver where stopped selling them?
I really like them, rubber stems make them perfect for if you’re clumsy or spend a decent amount of time off-road where they can get knocked and banged.
They’re also bulb, keeping it OG. I feel like they look kinda OEM and slim the look of the bike down without it being tacky.
Fortunately / luckily there was no insurance proceedings either and the damage to the bike was purely cosmetic and the bars, handguards, shift lever rear left panel and indicator/mount on the subframe took the force of it.
You can see what’s left of my rear panel ft birdshit that happened day of the crash. Good luck eh?link text
All of the most important bits I need to replace first.
Perks of swapping out a lot of your OEM original parts is when something bad happens they’re easily replaced.Luckily everything that broke and got damaged was aftermarket and entirely replaceable, I inspected for more serious damage and there wasn’t any. I’m very lucky. I’ve seen many a bike / person come a lot worse.
New bars installed, going gold not silver this time, same 971 Roczen bend. I much prefer them in gold vs silver. New Apico throttle body thrown in there to boot as well. Throttle response is insane now. Very very snappy.
(I have some VForce 4 reeds waiting to go on that would improve that further but then I’d need to rejet and im making sure that’s the last thing I do / I only have to do it once.)Fat bars are tempting me however the cables for my throttle and clutch just aren’t long enough to allow it
To my surprise the bike actually fired up first kick right after the crash and the best bit is that after I’d healed a bit I’d give the bike a through inspection, repaired the damage and everything since I have to say she’s now running just as well as the day I bought her.
Hundred of pounds and hours of my time later but a crash is what got my bike running crisp
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@SpookDog said in Stevie’s French '98, Mid-90's WR/YZ/DT (An idiotproof guide to building your own DTR):
If you have an air leak the revs should ‘drop and settle’ to normal when you ‘spray block’ the leak. It should be instantaneous, but getting the fluid behind the flywheel into the seal is no mean feat. If it did settle, then I’d bet it’s leaking at the seal...
Have a powder fire extinguisher handy if you’re using brake/clutch cleaner around electricals, please bud!
Did I just nearly accidentally set myself and my bike on fire?
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Sounds like you did have a blocked idle jet and the simple act of turning your bike upside down and shaking it cleared it. Think I’ll just take my carb off though!
Glad you and the bike are copacetic!
Other people eh?! 🤨
