Ignition key replacment
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@erion don't know much else about this year to be honest only some of the older European ones has a little washer type thing spot welded into the exhaust at the header to close it up and restrict it. Remove the exhaust and you'll see it if it's there.
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@erion Bro you need to chill
These bikes are incredibly simple. The fact of the matter to me seems like you are accepting a botched repair rather than taking the time to do things properly.Tapping up the ignition switch, and God knows what other botches you're doing, is going to bite you in the backside big time. If that wire comes loose on a ride out you're going to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a brick of a bike.
Juat relax and take the time to do the job properly and it'll pay dividends later on.
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@erion Bro you need to chill
These bikes are incredibly simple. The fact of the matter to me seems like you are accepting a botched repair rather than taking the time to do things properly.Tapping up the ignition switch, and God knows what other botches you're doing, is going to bite you in the backside big time. If that wire comes loose on a ride out you're going to be stuck in the middle of nowhere with a brick of a bike.
Juat relax and take the time to do the job properly and it'll pay dividends later on.
@Calum im actually not doing much cus the bike was in perfect condition i just wanted the key to be fixed and ill get the cables for the speedo and rpm counter and thats it but i cant seem to find what the problem is the bike turns over time after time and runs like 1-2 seconds and turns of
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Sounds like an ignition problem to, presumably it was working before you messed about with the ignition?
@Calum no i installed the ignition yesterday afternoon and took it for a ride it was good but i had the same problem a week ago and i thought it was carb related so i took the carb out and took it for cleaning yesterday i put the carb back in on the morning and i rode it like 2 hours it was just fine but now its doing the same thing it did before a week
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@Calum no i installed the ignition yesterday afternoon and took it for a ride it was good but i had the same problem a week ago and i thought it was carb related so i took the carb out and took it for cleaning yesterday i put the carb back in on the morning and i rode it like 2 hours it was just fine but now its doing the same thing it did before a week
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Still sounds like an ignition issue
I had this when I mistakenly bought a cheap chinese "Racing" coil. The bike would ride fine for a while, but then would start misfiring and running awful. Since I did a nut and bolt rebuild on the bike, I didn't think it was the coil since everything was new on it, but as time wore on I decided to revisit the issue. A brand new Genuine coil later and the bike was back to running sweet again.
I run a similar "Racing" coil on my RS...need to swap that out at some point.
If you're comfortable that the bike is being fueled properly, then I'd be inclined to look at the ignition as you next port of call.
Had a similar issue on a 2001 DTR, where it would only start if you kicked it over whilst turning the ignition from "Off" to "On".
It was the side stand switch on that particular instance, and it was looped out and this was the only way to get the bike running.
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Still sounds like an ignition issue
I had this when I mistakenly bought a cheap chinese "Racing" coil. The bike would ride fine for a while, but then would start misfiring and running awful. Since I did a nut and bolt rebuild on the bike, I didn't think it was the coil since everything was new on it, but as time wore on I decided to revisit the issue. A brand new Genuine coil later and the bike was back to running sweet again.
I run a similar "Racing" coil on my RS...need to swap that out at some point.
If you're comfortable that the bike is being fueled properly, then I'd be inclined to look at the ignition as you next port of call.
Had a similar issue on a 2001 DTR, where it would only start if you kicked it over whilst turning the ignition from "Off" to "On".
It was the side stand switch on that particular instance, and it was looped out and this was the only way to get the bike running.
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@erion Key? Or ignition barrel.
My bike was stolen in 2010 and I replaced the ignition barrel with a Wemoto one. It's not bad, but it isn't great either. About a year later the whole ignition assembly crumbled in my hand and I've had to hand solder all new cables onto it.
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@erion Key? Or ignition barrel.
My bike was stolen in 2010 and I replaced the ignition barrel with a Wemoto one. It's not bad, but it isn't great either. About a year later the whole ignition assembly crumbled in my hand and I've had to hand solder all new cables onto it.
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@erion Key? Or ignition barrel.
My bike was stolen in 2010 and I replaced the ignition barrel with a Wemoto one. It's not bad, but it isn't great either. About a year later the whole ignition assembly crumbled in my hand and I've had to hand solder all new cables onto it.
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@erion Key? Or ignition barrel.
My bike was stolen in 2010 and I replaced the ignition barrel with a Wemoto one. It's not bad, but it isn't great either. About a year later the whole ignition assembly crumbled in my hand and I've had to hand solder all new cables onto it.
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@Calum https://imgur.com/a/sTDj42S this is the key i replaced
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@SpookDog The thing about the ignition barrel, is it's literally just a switch with no circuitry so it shouldn't matter too much. It doesn't look the best mind you.
The problem is @erion We're trying to remotely diagnose a bike with little to no information. Only you know what modifications your bike has and we're really making wild guess based off the little information that you have presented us with.
What we could end up doing, is focusing on the ignition switch, as it's the only thing you've really mentioned, and this could be a red heron. Ultimately wasting your time and ours...
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@SpookDog The thing about the ignition barrel, is it's literally just a switch with no circuitry so it shouldn't matter too much. It doesn't look the best mind you.
The problem is @erion We're trying to remotely diagnose a bike with little to no information. Only you know what modifications your bike has and we're really making wild guess based off the little information that you have presented us with.
What we could end up doing, is focusing on the ignition switch, as it's the only thing you've really mentioned, and this could be a red heron. Ultimately wasting your time and ours...
@Calum im sorry if im wasting your time , but as far as i know the bike doesn't have any modifications its bone stock and im just trying to get it start up again so i was looking for some advice on where to look at first or what the problem could be related to
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@Calum im sorry if im wasting your time , but as far as i know the bike doesn't have any modifications its bone stock and im just trying to get it start up again so i was looking for some advice on where to look at first or what the problem could be related to
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If you're unsure, then the first thing to do is to locate an original OEM ignition barrel and put it back to how it's supposed to be. Rather than taping up wires and probably not making a good connection. Then at least we can start to rule out the ignition switch as being the fault cause.
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If you're unsure, then the first thing to do is to locate an original OEM ignition barrel and put it back to how it's supposed to be. Rather than taping up wires and probably not making a good connection. Then at least we can start to rule out the ignition switch as being the fault cause.
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@Calum i'll check that , btw here is a video of what's happening https://imgur.com/a/bT64mhz
Check the spark plug while someone else kicks it over, if it’s intermittent or weak; change the ignition barrel (I would put a genuine one in anyways). If it’s good and strong; strip and clean the carb again properly, remove the jets and check/clean them. Remove the main jet tube and clean the outside and inside and small holes in the sides. Remove and check the choke plunger. While it’s apart spray through all the holes with carb cleaner or even just air.
Drain the tank and use fresh petrol and 2stroke oil!…
It’s really easy to miss something on a carb when you first start doing them. Practice and (learning by!) many mistakes make perfect (in my case
)Good luck!
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Check the spark plug while someone else kicks it over, if it’s intermittent or weak; change the ignition barrel (I would put a genuine one in anyways). If it’s good and strong; strip and clean the carb again properly, remove the jets and check/clean them. Remove the main jet tube and clean the outside and inside and small holes in the sides. Remove and check the choke plunger. While it’s apart spray through all the holes with carb cleaner or even just air.
Drain the tank and use fresh petrol and 2stroke oil!…
It’s really easy to miss something on a carb when you first start doing them. Practice and (learning by!) many mistakes make perfect (in my case)Good luck!
…Just watched your vid. Sounds like it’s hunting for fuel almost straight away. Drain your carb bowl (with tap turned off!) from the tube at the bottom and see how much petrol your carbs bowl is holding. I’m guessing it’s not much at all. If there’s bugger all fuel check the needle valve on the floats…
