So Close!...
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Waiting on the flywheel puller now. There’s some noise from that sides bearing, maybe. It might be the starter clutch ring though. I don’t have any experience of elecy start lumps. So I want to remove the flywheel and starter clutch-ring stuff and see how it sounds without all that gumpf.
There’s no (up/down) movement in the crankshaft apart from a bit of side to side, which I can’t say I remember ever seeing before. I don’t know if that’s normal?… -
Sorry, I posted this in the wrong thread. Meant to be in the Tzr forum…
I meant crank movement, only the tiniest bit
…Bendix? Sounds like something Uri Geller would do in the bedroom!
…While I’ve gotten some free time I’m gonna tackle the water pump seal on the dtr. I’ve been meaning to for a while now. The oil has an opaque milky look to it where it’s been emulsified with the coolant.
I need the new seal I have for the tizzer now though. Luckily I’ve got a spare clutch casing with good pump seal, ect… -
One thing I’ve noticed from working on the Tzr are the handy bits of steel clip/bracketing that holds the wiring near the front sprocket in place. Even for the gearbox breather tube. There are loads of other guides and clips missing from my bike. I would really like to know where they all go so as I can try and replace them…
Anyone got ideas of how to find them out , short of doing a walk around a totally standard survivor bike?… -
Are they not itemised on the exploading diagrams?
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/main/img/assemblies/large/016ee6130ef8ca51319e1cded43b55e0.png
As an example:
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4111561/tzr125-4fl1-1993-999-a/crankcase -
Job done. New seal, new gasket and new oil. Just gotta wait for and see now…
Buttery gearchanges now, especially since oiling the clutch cable as well. Feels like an even newer, different bike! Feels like the rolling resistance is better as well, or I’m imagining it! Ever way it’s a plus
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Well…
When I fitted the new clutch casing I omitted the oil pump. I never realised that the bottom screw bolt isn’t blind like the top one. It goes straight through to the gearbox for some reason. Ended up with a boot and a back tyre/disc full of oil. Won’t make that mistake again … -
Engines running sweetly, got the rear disc and calliper cleaned up, so have good brakes again. Only thing is that the right side indicators have stopped working along with the indicator dash light. Also got to wait for PJME to get the crank in stock. Always something on a 35 year old basket case, eh?
Also got the new headstock bearing half way on and it won’t budge!…
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With my bearing I put the headstock in the freezer to shrink it ever so slightly then heat the bearing up really bit to expand it, then quickly drop it on few taps with a rod on the inner race of the bearing all the way around and it seated lovely.
First one I’ve done on dtr though I did one on a kx and the tolerances was so tight it didn’t work I had to get a tube that fit over the stem and onto the inner race and long enough to clear the top and few taps with hammer got it seated, wouldn’t damage the bearing as all force was on the inner race -
@SpookDog Have you machine-gunned your handlebar switches with WD40/GT85 lately? Just spray loads in until it fizzes and bubbles out of every orifice. Lots of little spring-loaded leccy contacty things inside them, it's a harsh environment for a switch. Good post-jet wash routine to get into
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First thing I tried
gonna investigate it some more today…I had it in the freezer for a few days! It was so cold wd40 was freezing on it into slush, couldn’t heat the bearing though. It has the bottom rubber seal fitted into it. Never seen one like it before…
Gonna have to find a steel pipe
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Does anyone else with an early bike 88~96 have issues with the headlight dimming when the brake light comes on? It’s been bugging me forever since getting the bike! The headlight runs off of a/c directly from the stator coil, but the brake light is run off of the battery, it shouldn’t affect it! The only thing I can think of is that they share an earth?! I’ve just rigged up an earth to the frame straight from the battery. I’m gonna see if that helps any. The neutral light looks stronger anyways, as is the PV on the key
…Fixed the indicators (& intermittent speedo bulb). Six new bullet connectors behind the headlight!! (& 1 bulb) The last couple years have been hard on the loom! Everything looks brighter on the battery now
…Almost forgot: This may sound stupid, but: 2T oil from the exhaust ‘filming over’ the battery top, could it diminish the output amp/voltage? Mine was coated and the power valve & neutral light had gotten ‘sluggish’. It’s better since cleaning, but I’m not sure if it was this or a poor earth to the battery? I guess I’ll try not connecting the earth, later after night testing…
I wish I knew a motor cycle electrician/Wizard
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