So Close!...
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Wicked resource! But they only start at .30
I need a .25
.225 are the most common Dtr jet@SpookDog try KMT products limited. British made jets by a Northamptonshire company. Top quality too. Unlike the Chinese copies and they start at .10.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273888042871?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RUUIcrapSsS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7ztfcrwyt6w&var=573711906965&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY -
Hi guys sorry Abit off topic here
Just picked up a dtr from my mate, it had the ktm style front light on it, the wires are
Green = Ground
White = High beam
Blue = Low beam
Brown = SidelightI can get sidelight working when ignition key is turned and also the normal beam headlight but the switch doesn’t do anything, the wires have previously been cut, I’m just wondering if anyone has a picture of the wiring colours for headlight and the switch the switch looks like a Newer 2003+ one
I’ll put some pictures up if it lets me
Cheers !
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Here is the wires for ktm style headlight what ones would I connect for it all to work above is the wires that’s at the front of the bike
Not use to all this cut wires but I don’t want to get a new loom just for 4 wires for headlight lol -
On my dtr125
Black: earth
Green: headlight
Yellow:headlight
Blue/Red: sidelightDon’t remember what colour is main or dip, just experiment
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Got a new crank ordered from PJME. Just waiting on it now. Need to get a bolt lug welding on to the flywheel side of the crank casing and I’ll be good to start building this thing…
Waiting on the flywheel puller now. There’s some noise from that sides bearing, maybe. It might be the starter clutch ring though. I don’t have any experience of elecy start lumps. So I want to remove the flywheel and starter clutch-ring stuff and see how it sounds without all that gumpf.
There’s no (up/down) movement in the crankshaft apart from a bit of side to side, which I can’t say I remember ever seeing before. I don’t know if that’s normal?… -
Crankshaft? Or Connecting rod?
There should be some side float, no up/down movement.
The starter bendix will make some noise, but otherwise it should be silent.
Sorry, I posted this in the wrong thread. Meant to be in the Tzr forum…
I meant crank movement, only the tiniest bit
…Bendix? Sounds like something Uri Geller would do in the bedroom!
…While I’ve gotten some free time I’m gonna tackle the water pump seal on the dtr. I’ve been meaning to for a while now. The oil has an opaque milky look to it where it’s been emulsified with the coolant.
I need the new seal I have for the tizzer now though. Luckily I’ve got a spare clutch casing with good pump seal, ect… -
Sorry, I posted this in the wrong thread. Meant to be in the Tzr forum…
I meant crank movement, only the tiniest bit
…Bendix? Sounds like something Uri Geller would do in the bedroom!
…While I’ve gotten some free time I’m gonna tackle the water pump seal on the dtr. I’ve been meaning to for a while now. The oil has an opaque milky look to it where it’s been emulsified with the coolant.
I need the new seal I have for the tizzer now though. Luckily I’ve got a spare clutch casing with good pump seal, ect…One thing I’ve noticed from working on the Tzr are the handy bits of steel clip/bracketing that holds the wiring near the front sprocket in place. Even for the gearbox breather tube. There are loads of other guides and clips missing from my bike. I would really like to know where they all go so as I can try and replace them…
Anyone got ideas of how to find them out , short of doing a walk around a totally standard survivor bike?… -
Are they not itemised on the exploading diagrams?
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/main/img/assemblies/large/016ee6130ef8ca51319e1cded43b55e0.png
As an example:
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4111561/tzr125-4fl1-1993-999-a/crankcase -
Are they not itemised on the exploading diagrams?
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/main/img/assemblies/large/016ee6130ef8ca51319e1cded43b55e0.png
As an example:
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4111561/tzr125-4fl1-1993-999-a/crankcase -
I’ve never looked specifically, but nothing has ever caught my attention before while looking. I’ll have to check…
Damn this has gotten a lot worse than before!…
That is some pusstulant looking ‘goo~oil’!!…Job done. New seal, new gasket and new oil. Just gotta wait for and see now…
Buttery gearchanges now, especially since oiling the clutch cable as well. Feels like an even newer, different bike! Feels like the rolling resistance is better as well, or I’m imagining it! Ever way it’s a plus
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Job done. New seal, new gasket and new oil. Just gotta wait for and see now…
Buttery gearchanges now, especially since oiling the clutch cable as well. Feels like an even newer, different bike! Feels like the rolling resistance is better as well, or I’m imagining it! Ever way it’s a plus
…Well…
When I fitted the new clutch casing I omitted the oil pump. I never realised that the bottom screw bolt isn’t blind like the top one. It goes straight through to the gearbox for some reason. Ended up with a boot and a back tyre/disc full of oil. Won’t make that mistake again … -
Hi guys
Off the top of your head what psi are you getting on compression test?
Thank you! -
Yep, the 2T pump lower 4mm screw/bolt hole goes all the way through to the nylon cog on the inside…
Plugged it with a screw/bolt…Oil & brakes? Who would of guessed?
…Engines running sweetly, got the rear disc and calliper cleaned up, so have good brakes again. Only thing is that the right side indicators have stopped working along with the indicator dash light. Also got to wait for PJME to get the crank in stock. Always something on a 35 year old basket case, eh?
Also got the new headstock bearing half way on and it won’t budge!…
