So Close!...
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Anyone have a half decent, usable set of clutch side casing screw-bolts they can let go? Preferably Jap Ind Std OEM one’s?…
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@SpookDog gawd the OEM stuff is awful! Made of cheese I swear. I think all mine either rounded off or snapped when I took it apart.
I found out that they are OK as long as you use a JIS (🦴
!!) screwdriver bit. Anything else chews out the + in them.
The OEM bolt & nuts are the best I’ve ever seen! I love the way you can re~tweak the lock nuts by adjusting the stainless tangs!…
———————————I forgot to text you! I’m sorry, I’ve spent the entire afternoon putting new bearings in my casings, which for me is a fuxin stressful job! Heat, chant&pray, tap! & repeat!
The balancer shaft bearings are the worst!
Job done though. Tomorrow is gearbox & crank in and ‘lump’ together, I hope!I’ve texted you my siss’s post code, and when you’re coming over to Poole way drop me a text and I’ll arrange shiznezz with you…
Or if you’re here tonight give me a shout…
Or I’ll post it if you want… -
@SpookDog gawd the OEM stuff is awful! Made of cheese I swear. I think all mine either rounded off or snapped when I took it apart.
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@SpookDog Ordered a set of titanium studs this morning for my ETX this morning
Listen, when it comes for OEM bonus points I'll admit, you can't beat that factory look. The issue I have, is none of my stuff is mint and the real art is doing a @scrimsmustang or @oldman build. The attention to detail for the OEM goodness is beyond anything I'll ever accomplish.
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@SpookDog Ordered a set of titanium studs this morning for my ETX this morning
Listen, when it comes for OEM bonus points I'll admit, you can't beat that factory look. The issue I have, is none of my stuff is mint and the real art is doing a @scrimsmustang or @oldman build. The attention to detail for the OEM goodness is beyond anything I'll ever accomplish.
I’m not an original’o’phobe myself, personally. I just think the OEM ones are better than aftermarket replacement ones. Not including titanium or stainless upgrades, which I would use if I weren’t so ‘broke a$$’
I do get people wanting originality on classic things, but I’ve always got the most out of doing my own thing. Cutting, welding/splicing and usually Matt black (cause of the broke ass thing
) with the lettering on the tyres picked out in white (child of the 70’s!)…PS! Do the clutch springs need upgrading with an Athena kit? Or is standard fine?…
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I’m not an original’o’phobe myself, personally. I just think the OEM ones are better than aftermarket replacement ones. Not including titanium or stainless upgrades, which I would use if I weren’t so ‘broke a$$’
I do get people wanting originality on classic things, but I’ve always got the most out of doing my own thing. Cutting, welding/splicing and usually Matt black (cause of the broke ass thing
) with the lettering on the tyres picked out in white (child of the 70’s!)…PS! Do the clutch springs need upgrading with an Athena kit? Or is standard fine?…
Got the bottom end pinned together, despite the wind which always blows crap about when I’m doing engine internals! I put up a beach umbrella and hid behind it.
It went together well, this is my third bottom end rebuild and I like to think I’ve improved a bit each time The new crank spins real easy, you could blow on it and spool it up!… -
I'm not going to lie, you use your bike a damn sight more than I use any of mine! I mostly cycle/run everywhere.
No you don't need clutch springs for the Athena 170 kit, so long as your clutch is healthy you should be fine. That said, I run the stiffer spring setup, along with the EBC Dirt clutch plates.
Been out on my DT today and it is running CRISP in this weather. Really hurtles along!
Yeah it's satisfying riding the bike with a motor you've put together.
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I’m not an original’o’phobe myself, personally. I just think the OEM ones are better than aftermarket replacement ones. Not including titanium or stainless upgrades, which I would use if I weren’t so ‘broke a$$’
I do get people wanting originality on classic things, but I’ve always got the most out of doing my own thing. Cutting, welding/splicing and usually Matt black (cause of the broke ass thing
) with the lettering on the tyres picked out in white (child of the 70’s!)…PS! Do the clutch springs need upgrading with an Athena kit? Or is standard fine?…
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I would use if I weren’t so ‘broke a$$’
I do get people wanting originality on classic things, but I’ve always got the most out of doing my own thing. Cutting, welding/splicing and usually Matt black (cause of the broke ass thing
) with the lettering on the tyres picked out in white (child of the 70’s!)…I understand you so much and I am in your "broke a$$" team as well (but 80s child).
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Didn’t get owt done today. Bike was running properly crisp tho! It was like the cold dense air was a nitrous hit for the old bee~atch! The bits & bobs motor I’ve got in at the moment has done me reall, really well considering the absolute state of it! I’m just coming up on 30,000miles since I got and built the bike & engine!…
All the hassles I’ve had and IT has never left me stranded on the side of the road. Bless!!…I’m quite looking forward to the new chapter in Its incarnation . I’m hoping it’ll run like a dream from here on out
️
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I seriously can't get over how much you ride lmao. I don't think I've done 30k miles in all of the vehicles I've owned.
I still need a gudgeon pin for an Athena 170 piston. It’s 16mm x 56mm. The only one I can find is 16 x 57mm…
If anyone has put a new piston in their Athena kit and still has the old pin please let me know. I can’t do any more to my build till I get one
…Cheers Peeps!…
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I still need a gudgeon pin for an Athena 170 piston. It’s 16mm x 56mm. The only one I can find is 16 x 57mm…
If anyone has put a new piston in their Athena kit and still has the old pin please let me know. I can’t do any more to my build till I get one
…Cheers Peeps!…
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I still need a gudgeon pin for an Athena 170 piston. It’s 16mm x 56mm. The only one I can find is 16 x 57mm…
If anyone has put a new piston in their Athena kit and still has the old pin please let me know. I can’t do any more to my build till I get one
…Cheers Peeps!…
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I still need a gudgeon pin for an Athena 170 piston. It’s 16mm x 56mm. The only one I can find is 16 x 57mm…
If anyone has put a new piston in their Athena kit and still has the old pin please let me know. I can’t do any more to my build till I get one
…Cheers Peeps!…
Why don't you take the 16x57 and machine off 0.5mm from each side?
I remember the pin from the kit has a little play when installed with the circlips,maybe there is space for that 1mm. -
@SpookDog I only recently threw away an Athena 170 gudgeon pin that only saw a few hundred miles on it
Well f@nk you very much! Wasteful Torrie!
…My plan B!
…I’ve got one ordered earlier today, once I found out my siss’s card worked. She’s a fuxin heroin when it comes to keeping me afloat!
It looks like there is enough room to fit the 57mm pin, I’m just not clued up on heat expansion & the like. I can just imagine it popping off a curclip when it comes up to temp! 🫤 …Edit: I forgot to ask about Athena replacement piston rings. Best place to get them? I understand that they’re specific to these kits as they’re 1mm thick/thin? Seems churlish not to fit new ones if they’re available and not astronomicaly priced …
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Well f@nk you very much! Wasteful Torrie!
…My plan B!
…I’ve got one ordered earlier today, once I found out my siss’s card worked. She’s a fuxin heroin when it comes to keeping me afloat!
It looks like there is enough room to fit the 57mm pin, I’m just not clued up on heat expansion & the like. I can just imagine it popping off a curclip when it comes up to temp! 🫤 …Edit: I forgot to ask about Athena replacement piston rings. Best place to get them? I understand that they’re specific to these kits as they’re 1mm thick/thin? Seems churlish not to fit new ones if they’re available and not astronomicaly priced …
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You can see that it’s been used either way round. I was just wondering what the reason is? If it aligned with the seal I could understand, but the wear pattern shows it doesn’t…
Actually, saying that! It looks like they’re not symmetrical! Strange!
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You can see that it’s been used either way round. I was just wondering what the reason is? If it aligned with the seal I could understand, but the wear pattern shows it doesn’t…
Actually, saying that! It looks like they’re not symmetrical! Strange!
Now I’m wondering if it’s original to the Dtr? It looks like it was used in a different engine, from the wear on one side to the other!
I don’t have another one kicking around that I know of. I’d like to know the measurements of a proper one so I can compare. It did skim off a sliver of the seal when I tapped it in. I though it was because it was a NOS seal and a bit hard. Guess I could of been wrong…Edit: then again someone could of just tapped the seal in too far, or not enough one of the times! Arrggghhhhh!!! 🤪
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Now I’m wondering if it’s original to the Dtr? It looks like it was used in a different engine, from the wear on one side to the other!
I don’t have another one kicking around that I know of. I’d like to know the measurements of a proper one so I can compare. It did skim off a sliver of the seal when I tapped it in. I though it was because it was a NOS seal and a bit hard. Guess I could of been wrong…Edit: then again someone could of just tapped the seal in too far, or not enough one of the times! Arrggghhhhh!!! 🤪
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@SpookDog
There is no reason for that groove there,no gain in lubrication or anything else. It's a spacer for seals. It must be from a wornout seal.
I had something similar on the spacer that seats the seal at the external chain sprocket. It looked like factory groove.
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