Hello all
-
Gonna be a couple hundred quid. The feabay seller problem has the rotor. The shims the fuxor! Can’t be easy to make that puppy though!…
Still a viable bike if it’s in good enough condition…
-
)By jingo I think I have got it!!
-
By jingo I think I have got it!!
-
By jingo I think I have got it!!
@mcludd CBR400 Tri-Arm front and rear ends in a KH250? Well done Sir
-
I decided to concentrate on my other project today, feeling a bit fed up with the water cooled ungrateful YamahaBefore my time 🫤 RD 250?…
Edit: 200?
I met a bloke who put an RD 200 twin engine in a dtr125 frame! He was trying to make a 2>1 exhaust the last time I saw him. I didn’t know about 2T expansion chambers at the time! I’ll have to stop by and see what’s what next time the weathers good and I feel any kinda sociable…
-
So got about as far as I can with the 250 til I get some stuff back from paint so I will have to turn my attention to the ginger stepchild again tomorrow, anyone got a pre 2004 wiring diagram they could share so I can look at how (if at all ) possible it is to fit an earlier CDI
-
So got about as far as I can with the 250 til I get some stuff back from paint so I will have to turn my attention to the ginger stepchild again tomorrow, anyone got a pre 2004 wiring diagram they could share so I can look at how (if at all ) possible it is to fit an earlier CDI
@mcludd Here's a 3NC wiring diagram. The DTR used either 3NC or 3MB wiring between 1989 and about 1998; 3MB is almost identical but you can't run a 3NC CDI on a 3MB loom or vice versa.
I don't know very much about the '99 onwards wiring which incorporates the reed switch etc but the 3NC and 3MB platforms (and the 3DB from the original round slide carb DTR in 1988) are all full power, even on UK bikes which were just supplied without the YPVS servo and the powervalve pinned closed for the 12bhp learner legislation of the day. I'd steer clear of 3DB electrical parts as the '88 bike had a different bore and stroke to '89 onwards DTRs.
To run 3NC or 3MB electrics, of the top of my head you'd need:
CDI unit and main loom
Stator and flywheel (part numbers are different between 3NC and 3MB)
Non-DTRe crankshaft if your bike has electric start
Regulator/rectifier
3-wire YPVS servo (the 3-wire servo has its own on-board computer and so only requires an RPM signal from 3DB/3NC/3MB CDI units)
Pattern 6-wire ignition switch
Left handlebar switch cluster
Clocks for temp gauge wiring
Twistgrip (the type with integral kill switch)
Poss. sidestand switchThese electrical platforms are a good deal simpler than some of the later bikes and as far as I'm aware the left crankcase has all the correct mounting holes for the non-DTRe stator even on electric start bikes so if you can get hold of all the above parts it could be the easiest way around this. Also if you look around, back in the day there was such a thing as a 3MB DTRe which would be the best electrical platform to go for IMO if you wanted to do this. At one time I owned three French import DTRs; '93 and '98 3NCs and a '98 3MB. All full power (10k rpm +) but the 3MB had noticeably more power than the other two despite having over 65000km on the clock (the 3NC and 3MB have different ignition advance curves).
The KTM LC2 125 had a DTR engine and ran the 3MB electrical platform so have a look on eBay international for a CDI and servo off one of those, German and Austrian breakers are full of them.
Anyone can see anything I've left out please feel free to add to this!
-
@mcludd Here's a 3NC wiring diagram. The DTR used either 3NC or 3MB wiring between 1989 and about 1998; 3MB is almost identical but you can't run a 3NC CDI on a 3MB loom or vice versa.
I don't know very much about the '99 onwards wiring which incorporates the reed switch etc but the 3NC and 3MB platforms (and the 3DB from the original round slide carb DTR in 1988) are all full power, even on UK bikes which were just supplied without the YPVS servo and the powervalve pinned closed for the 12bhp learner legislation of the day. I'd steer clear of 3DB electrical parts as the '88 bike had a different bore and stroke to '89 onwards DTRs.
To run 3NC or 3MB electrics, of the top of my head you'd need:
CDI unit and main loom
Stator and flywheel (part numbers are different between 3NC and 3MB)
Non-DTRe crankshaft if your bike has electric start
Regulator/rectifier
3-wire YPVS servo (the 3-wire servo has its own on-board computer and so only requires an RPM signal from 3DB/3NC/3MB CDI units)
Pattern 6-wire ignition switch
Left handlebar switch cluster
Clocks for temp gauge wiring
Twistgrip (the type with integral kill switch)
Poss. sidestand switchThese electrical platforms are a good deal simpler than some of the later bikes and as far as I'm aware the left crankcase has all the correct mounting holes for the non-DTRe stator even on electric start bikes so if you can get hold of all the above parts it could be the easiest way around this. Also if you look around, back in the day there was such a thing as a 3MB DTRe which would be the best electrical platform to go for IMO if you wanted to do this. At one time I owned three French import DTRs; '93 and '98 3NCs and a '98 3MB. All full power (10k rpm +) but the 3MB had noticeably more power than the other two despite having over 65000km on the clock (the 3NC and 3MB have different ignition advance curves).
The KTM LC2 125 had a DTR engine and ran the 3MB electrical platform so have a look on eBay international for a CDI and servo off one of those, German and Austrian breakers are full of them.
Anyone can see anything I've left out please feel free to add to this!
It’s all bloody expensive, if you can even find it. Fleabay 3 wires are at about £180 last I looked. Also looms are from there upwards!
-
@mcludd No worries bud
@SpookDog Yes, all a bit pricey these days and finding a non-butchered 3NC or 3MB loom is the biggest challenge. Saying that Zeeltronic sell all the correct connectors so with a decent crimping tool you could probably make your own for roughly the same cost as buying a used one.
-
@mcludd No worries bud
@SpookDog Yes, all a bit pricey these days and finding a non-butchered 3NC or 3MB loom is the biggest challenge. Saying that Zeeltronic sell all the correct connectors so with a decent crimping tool you could probably make your own for roughly the same cost as buying a used one.
I looked at connectors in ‘Bikers Toolbox’
They aren’t Yamaha OEM, or anything. I like them because they’re waterproof! Good price as well, I think it worked out about 50-60£ for the connectors and the crimping tool, don’t quote me tho! It was a while ago
They sell all the wire colours in various gauges, as well as the wrap and sleeve stuff to do a proper job…Making a loom is on my to-do list! Summer job for me though. My ‘work bench’ keeps getting flooded at the moment 🫤
-
Wow making a loom has never been on my to do list I bloody hate electrics give me nice mechanical carnage anyday
So as far as the deet from hell goes, I refitted the rotor plugged all the connectors back in and fired it up - multimeter across the battery 11.8v -BUGGER!!!!!
Unplugged the rectifier and checked the phase wires - out put on 2, 3rd one still dead stator is knackered despite looking good - I did a continuity check on all three phase wires and have continuity all the way up to the rectifier multi plug suddenly the buying a 12 segment stator rotor and a taper shim is not so mad expensive any more although the temptation to just shelve it until after Christmas and break it is strong, just get my investment back -
Wow making a loom has never been on my to do list I bloody hate electrics give me nice mechanical carnage anyday
So as far as the deet from hell goes, I refitted the rotor plugged all the connectors back in and fired it up - multimeter across the battery 11.8v -BUGGER!!!!!
Unplugged the rectifier and checked the phase wires - out put on 2, 3rd one still dead stator is knackered despite looking good - I did a continuity check on all three phase wires and have continuity all the way up to the rectifier multi plug suddenly the buying a 12 segment stator rotor and a taper shim is not so mad expensive any more although the temptation to just shelve it until after Christmas and break it is strong, just get my investment backMy tzr (1994 4hw) has the same stator and rotor as the RE (blue green wire included )The CDI looks the same as a 3MB one, which is weird cause I thought RE ones were totally different?!
Point is it might be easier and cheaper to get a tzr stator set. The belgarda might be the same as well… -
So I had another look at the old girl today and decided I just dont have the time (or enthusiasm really) so I am going to sell it as a complete lump that is an ongoing project if anyone on here is interested you are welcome to have it otherwise I shall list it on evilbay in a week or so
-
)
