So Close!...
-
Is the powervalve all setup working correctly. I haven't got a video of my 170, but it's properly sweet.
Shouldn't be juddering, how slack was the chain!
Hey bud! Haven’t taken it over 5K so PV isn’t an issue. Chain was very slack, it must’ve bedded in during the 30mile shakedown ride a lot more than I thought possible! I’ve adjusted it up so it has just over 25mm play. I’m waiting till tomorrow to ride it cause I’ve had a few beers…
I’m probably worrying too much. I almost expect something to go wrong…
-
Hey bud! Haven’t taken it over 5K so PV isn’t an issue. Chain was very slack, it must’ve bedded in during the 30mile shakedown ride a lot more than I thought possible! I’ve adjusted it up so it has just over 25mm play. I’m waiting till tomorrow to ride it cause I’ve had a few beers…
I’m probably worrying too much. I almost expect something to go wrong…
Chain adjustment has gotten rid of the shuddering, just done 3 miles after warming up and it is riding sweet. Only niggle is at certain low revs when I’m just maintaining speed it sounds almost like there are a few tiny ball bearings in the expansion chamber. I’m guessing it’s a bit of a mixture adjustment in the pilot jet/valve cutaway range. Going to try and richen the airscrew and see what happens…
Tick over is very stable so I don’t think it’s a small air leak…All in all it’s good. Pulls like a fuxin freight train @ low revs. Totally different animal!
… -
Chain adjustment has gotten rid of the shuddering, just done 3 miles after warming up and it is riding sweet. Only niggle is at certain low revs when I’m just maintaining speed it sounds almost like there are a few tiny ball bearings in the expansion chamber. I’m guessing it’s a bit of a mixture adjustment in the pilot jet/valve cutaway range. Going to try and richen the airscrew and see what happens…
Tick over is very stable so I don’t think it’s a small air leak…All in all it’s good. Pulls like a fuxin freight train @ low revs. Totally different animal!
… -
They were painted bud. The bike was first registered black with red frame and stickers. Most of the panels were dark/navy blue. So it had a hard life before I got it, 16 registered keepers! (I’d love to know how many times it was stolen!)…
It’s an old mongrel, not a righteous, numbers matching survivor. Though I am trying to turn it into an honest, righteous bike…
-
They were painted bud. The bike was first registered black with red frame and stickers. Most of the panels were dark/navy blue. So it had a hard life before I got it, 16 registered keepers! (I’d love to know how many times it was stolen!)…
It’s an old mongrel, not a righteous, numbers matching survivor. Though I am trying to turn it into an honest, righteous bike…
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
They were painted bud. The bike was first registered black with red frame and stickers. Most of the panels were dark/navy blue. So it had a hard life before I got it, 16 registered keepers! (I’d love to know how many times it was stolen!)…
It’s an old mongrel, not a righteous, numbers matching survivor. Though I am trying to turn it into an honest, righteous bike…
I think our DT fates are close,mine was at a coastal rental shop and I leave on a semi touristic island.Was in Germany for 2 years before coming to Greece 11 years as rental.
A properly raped stock unserviced bike when bought,56K km's on factory piston,fux even oil's/fluids where stock. -
They were painted bud. The bike was first registered black with red frame and stickers. Most of the panels were dark/navy blue. So it had a hard life before I got it, 16 registered keepers! (I’d love to know how many times it was stolen!)…
It’s an old mongrel, not a righteous, numbers matching survivor. Though I am trying to turn it into an honest, righteous bike…
-
I’m still getting some popping/miss at about 1/8 ~ 1/4 throttle. I’ve tried turning the airscrew down from 1 & 1/4 to 1 turn out but it’s not changed anything…
Do Athena officially say anything about jetting? With the standard Mikuni 28…
Realised I’ve been having problems with electrical, plug and cap, as well as a bit of an air leak with the rubber manifold I used. It’s hard as fux so I’m changing it out for the old , flexible one…
One thing at a time would be nice, but where’s the fun in that, I spose…
Edit: I’ve addressed both problems, just got to wait till tommorry and see if it’s hit the mark, or not
… -
Realised I’ve been having problems with electrical, plug and cap, as well as a bit of an air leak with the rubber manifold I used. It’s hard as fux so I’m changing it out for the old , flexible one…
One thing at a time would be nice, but where’s the fun in that, I spose…
Edit: I’ve addressed both problems, just got to wait till tommorry and see if it’s hit the mark, or not
… -
Better but no cigar. Got a 27.5 pilot on the way…
I used to have to clean out the pilot a lot before. It was ok but not perfect. I’m using revs between 3~4K I never used before. This is where I’m getting a bit of ‘chatter’… -
Back to digging around again! 0.275 pilot never turned up before Sunday, so I’ve got an old ‘stretched’ .25 I’m gonna try in the meantime…
Hey bud! You posted a pic or link to a more comprehensive wiring guide for the early Dtr’s a while ago? It included the power valve servo wiring for 3 wire ones. Can you refresh me with it maybe? I’m not finding it easy with searches!…
Ta!!——————————-
Back together again!…
Tomorrow, sobriety and a test ride will tell if the ‘oversized’ .25 pilot makes a positive difference…
-
Hey bud! You posted a pic or link to a more comprehensive wiring guide for the early Dtr’s a while ago? It included the power valve servo wiring for 3 wire ones. Can you refresh me with it maybe? I’m not finding it easy with searches!…
Ta!!——————————-
Back together again!…
Tomorrow, sobriety and a test ride will tell if the ‘oversized’ .25 pilot makes a positive difference…
@SpookDog Yes mate, it's on that thread @dan28 put up about the CDI/neutral switch wiring but here it is anyway:
BTW I meant to ask you, does your bike have a separate ignition control unit under the seat? If so I think that's what the threaded hole on the top of the airbox (just in front of the air intake) is for. According to Haynes it's unique to the '88 round slide carb (3DB1) version of the DTR although the original TZR125 also has this. The wiring diagram above is for the '89 onwards, 3NC 3RN1 onwards bikes (3MB is similar, just a couple of different CDI connections), will try and scan in/post up the 3DB1 wiring diagram sometime.
-
@SpookDog Yes mate, it's on that thread @dan28 put up about the CDI/neutral switch wiring but here it is anyway:
BTW I meant to ask you, does your bike have a separate ignition control unit under the seat? If so I think that's what the threaded hole on the top of the airbox (just in front of the air intake) is for. According to Haynes it's unique to the '88 round slide carb (3DB1) version of the DTR although the original TZR125 also has this. The wiring diagram above is for the '89 onwards, 3NC 3RN1 onwards bikes (3MB is similar, just a couple of different CDI connections), will try and scan in/post up the 3DB1 wiring diagram sometime.
Yeah bud! There’s a threaded hole to mount a plate that I imagine is like the flasher relay units mount point. A similar rubber do~da setup
I have two separate solenoid relay boxes under my seat that live above the airbox. They used to scare the bejesus out of meThe extra blue & sky-blue connector is what I was wondering about. I have a spare 3NC CDI that has them, that I was thinking of trying out.
The CDI unit on my bike doesn’t have those two wires/connector-block.I was trying to suss out were the brown and black wires (for the PV servo 2 pin plug) come from. Whether it’s the loom or my old CDI unit. I’m very wary of disturbing the loom and connectors again! 35 year old wiring ‘ain’t what it used to be’!
…
Also the feed wire for the PV servo, it’s black/yellow? My wires are so faded I want to make sure I’m not mixing it up with the black/white stripe wire!…A definitive wiring diagram would be a Godsend!
-
Yeah bud! There’s a threaded hole to mount a plate that I imagine is like the flasher relay units mount point. A similar rubber do~da setup
I have two separate solenoid relay boxes under my seat that live above the airbox. They used to scare the bejesus out of meThe extra blue & sky-blue connector is what I was wondering about. I have a spare 3NC CDI that has them, that I was thinking of trying out.
The CDI unit on my bike doesn’t have those two wires/connector-block.I was trying to suss out were the brown and black wires (for the PV servo 2 pin plug) come from. Whether it’s the loom or my old CDI unit. I’m very wary of disturbing the loom and connectors again! 35 year old wiring ‘ain’t what it used to be’!
…
Also the feed wire for the PV servo, it’s black/yellow? My wires are so faded I want to make sure I’m not mixing it up with the black/white stripe wire!…A definitive wiring diagram would be a Godsend!
@SpookDog For the PV servo, the black and brown 2-pin connector is the main feed (brown) and earth (black) from the loom. When you turn the ignition switch to "on" it connects red (battery +ve) to brown which then supplies a 12v feed to everything that works without the engine running (horn, neutral/oil lights etc.).
The black/yellow wire is the powervalve servo signal wire and comes from the CDI, it just tells the 3-wire servo the engine speed (like a crank sensor on a car ECU) which then adjusts its position. In fact the 3-wire servo has two distinct circuits inside it, one to do this with the bike running and one to perform the PV cleaning cycle on switch on. If you remove the servo from the bike altogether and apply battery voltage to the black and brown wires, it does its cleaning cycle on the bench.
Can you post up some pics of your CDI connectors? I might be able to identify your CDI/wiring platform.
-
@SpookDog For the PV servo, the black and brown 2-pin connector is the main feed (brown) and earth (black) from the loom. When you turn the ignition switch to "on" it connects red (battery +ve) to brown which then supplies a 12v feed to everything that works without the engine running (horn, neutral/oil lights etc.).
The black/yellow wire is the powervalve servo signal wire and comes from the CDI, it just tells the 3-wire servo the engine speed (like a crank sensor on a car ECU) which then adjusts its position. In fact the 3-wire servo has two distinct circuits inside it, one to do this with the bike running and one to perform the PV cleaning cycle on switch on. If you remove the servo from the bike altogether and apply battery voltage to the black and brown wires, it does its cleaning cycle on the bench.
Can you post up some pics of your CDI connectors? I might be able to identify your CDI/wiring platform.
Will do it when I strip down again!…
The jet made no difference to the symptoms. I’m more convinced it’s an over compression problem. I totally forgot about having to lap the ‘mouth’ of the crankcase! I’m going to try fitting an extra base gasket. At £50 a pop I can’t afford to keep taking the head off to check the height
…When I push the kickstart down it really makes ‘segmated’ jolts, loads more than any other barrel/pistons I’ve had on before that have been fresh rebores…
Just trying to muster up enthusiasm to strip the top down again!…
-
Will do it when I strip down again!…
The jet made no difference to the symptoms. I’m more convinced it’s an over compression problem. I totally forgot about having to lap the ‘mouth’ of the crankcase! I’m going to try fitting an extra base gasket. At £50 a pop I can’t afford to keep taking the head off to check the height
…When I push the kickstart down it really makes ‘segmated’ jolts, loads more than any other barrel/pistons I’ve had on before that have been fresh rebores…
Just trying to muster up enthusiasm to strip the top down again!…
Are Athena power valves specific to the barrels? I’ll guess they are but I need to know.
Mines loose as a wizards sleeve! There’s at least a MM of play. It could be responsible for the clatter noise I hear at very low rpm’s. Not sure about the missing but hey! I’m not ruling it out. Especially with the compression being high…Actually! With the power valve being that loose, could it properly fux up the scavenging at low revs?…
Edit: After dismantling it, the valve bushes are bad. Especially the one on the servo side. I found a better one in my bits pile. Even found a 4FU type that I can possibly swap over onto the Athena (clutch side) one, cause it’s just a tube-ring without the flange of the servo side.
Does anyone know if the brass/bronze rings can be bought new? Or the whole end sections? -
@SpookDog For the PV servo, the black and brown 2-pin connector is the main feed (brown) and earth (black) from the loom. When you turn the ignition switch to "on" it connects red (battery +ve) to brown which then supplies a 12v feed to everything that works without the engine running (horn, neutral/oil lights etc.).
The black/yellow wire is the powervalve servo signal wire and comes from the CDI, it just tells the 3-wire servo the engine speed (like a crank sensor on a car ECU) which then adjusts its position. In fact the 3-wire servo has two distinct circuits inside it, one to do this with the bike running and one to perform the PV cleaning cycle on switch on. If you remove the servo from the bike altogether and apply battery voltage to the black and brown wires, it does its cleaning cycle on the bench.
Can you post up some pics of your CDI connectors? I might be able to identify your CDI/wiring platform.
