Clutch
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So what's the tapping?
The fact the idle goes down with the clutch in doesn't really bother me. I see that a lot, usually the thrust bearings going on the clutch, however we don't have those.
What we do have is a primary drive bearing, which if it's on its way out, will vibrate and probably cause this sort of issue.
With that sort of mileage on a two stroke, and an uncertainty of the engines age, I'd be stripping it down for a rebuild...
I don't think we're going to diagnose it really.
If it isn't what I've been suggesting then I really think it might just be an engine rebuild jobby, or paranoia.
If it was really bad then you would know. Again it all comes back to how much vibration. If it's a lot, then it's for a reason. But two strokes rattle a lot anyway so it's really hard to tell.
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From that video alone, I really can't hear anything wrong with it. Definitely could be a case of paranoia like Calum mentioned, just from knowing you've been fiddling around inside the engine. The revs dropping sounds as though it's only happening when you push it down into gear. From my experience this isn't all that uncommon with two strokes. My TDR currently does that and it's not something I'm concerned about. Although I have owned a couple of bikes that would simply cut out if you dropped them into gear without revving them quite a bit. They both had worn clutches though.. If you want serious reassurance, take it to a bike mechanic. Any decent mechanic who's worked with DTs before will be able to tell you if it's okay just by listening/taking a quick look.
TDR 125 - 2001
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From that video alone, I really can't hear anything wrong with it. Definitely could be a case of paranoia like Calum mentioned, just from knowing you've been fiddling around inside the engine. The revs dropping sounds as though it's only happening when you push it down into gear. From my experience this isn't all that uncommon with two strokes. My TDR currently does that and it's not something I'm concerned about. Although I have owned a couple of bikes that would simply cut out if you dropped them into gear without revving them quite a bit. They both had worn clutches though.. If you want serious reassurance, take it to a bike mechanic. Any decent mechanic who's worked with DTs before will be able to tell you if it's okay just by listening/taking a quick look.
@Mightyman Yeah if the dropping when it goes in gear then that's different.
Sounds like the clutch is engaging with the lever pulled in.
You could tell if you put the wheel a paddock stand and do it, if the wheel speeds uo then the clutch is engaging.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@Mightyman Yeah if the dropping when it goes in gear then that's different.
Sounds like the clutch is engaging with the lever pulled in.
You could tell if you put the wheel a paddock stand and do it, if the wheel speeds uo then the clutch is engaging.
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My ktm exc developed a knocking /vibrating sound from the clutch side the knocking would vanish when the clutch lever was pulled in it turned out it just needed a new clutch basket damper cushion which fits between the clutch basket drive gear and the clutch basket... Can't remember if the dt 125 uses a similar set up its been a while since I've been inside that engine but could be worth looking in to! As for the revs dropping when in neutral both my dts done that to so don't think it's much to worry about.
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My ktm exc developed a knocking /vibrating sound from the clutch side the knocking would vanish when the clutch lever was pulled in it turned out it just needed a new clutch basket damper cushion which fits between the clutch basket drive gear and the clutch basket... Can't remember if the dt 125 uses a similar set up its been a while since I've been inside that engine but could be worth looking in to! As for the revs dropping when in neutral both my dts done that to so don't think it's much to worry about.
@Biker_123 the revs drop when I put it in gear but to the point where it will cut out if I don't rev it
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Yeah DT's use a cushion ring.
Pretty sure it's because your clutch isn't properly disengaged
@Calum do you mean this ring and what's the best way to adjust it. I lined all the marks up and pushed the arm (what the clutch cable connects to) to the front of the bike and turned the rod at the pressure plate end till the marks on the arm and crankcase meet
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@Calum do you mean this ring and what's the best way to adjust it. I lined all the marks up and pushed the arm (what the clutch cable connects to) to the front of the bike and turned the rod at the pressure plate end till the marks on the arm and crankcase meet
@Ricky Yes that metal ring sits ontop of the thinnest friction plate which should be the first one that you insert into the clutch basket.
I am not sure what you are adjusting, but basically you loosen off the adjustment ends on the clutch perch and clutch actuator arm.
Get it roughly about right on the push rod end. Then hone it in on the actuator arm, and adjust at the perch as the plates wear down.
It makes more sense when you see someone do it.
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Is the clutch basket worn with grooves in it? This would increase drag, and let the idle speed go down as the engine struggles a bit. If so they can be filed down untill smooth.
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@Mightyman yeah
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@Ricky Yes that metal ring sits ontop of the thinnest friction plate which should be the first one that you insert into the clutch basket.
I am not sure what you are adjusting, but basically you loosen off the adjustment ends on the clutch perch and clutch actuator arm.
Get it roughly about right on the push rod end. Then hone it in on the actuator arm, and adjust at the perch as the plates wear down.
It makes more sense when you see someone do it.
@Calum this is the order I put them in it lined the arrow on the pressure plate up with the dot on the clutch basket and I pushed the arm ( what the clutch cable connects to) to the front of the bike and turned the rod at the pressure plate end till the marks on the arm and crankcase lined up
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@Jens-Eskildsen I think the first post mentions it's a brand new clutch.
@Mightyman just new friction plates and metal plates and springs not the basket this is the clutch i got
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-DRC-COMPLETE-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-YAMAHA-DT-125-X-2005-2006-/131742599793?nav=SEARCHDT 125X
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@Mightyman just new friction plates and metal plates and springs not the basket this is the clutch i got
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-DRC-COMPLETE-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-YAMAHA-DT-125-X-2005-2006-/131742599793?nav=SEARCH@Ricky Oh! In that case, definitely could be a notched basket as @Jens-Eskildsen mentioned... Check out the walls of the basket where the edges of the friction plates slide into. If there are notches this would explain your low rev issue.
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@Ricky Oh! In that case, definitely could be a notched basket as @Jens-Eskildsen mentioned... Check out the walls of the basket where the edges of the friction plates slide into. If there are notches this would explain your low rev issue.
@Mightyman but I don't understand why it only started since i put the new clutch in it never did it with the old clutch
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It COULD have been triggered by you changing the gear oil.
EDIT:
Or possibly the old plates had already worn enough to somehow make the issue less prominent... Why did you change the clutch in the first place? Could you give the old bits a try just to confirm it's not the assembly that's incorrect?TDR 125 - 2001
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It COULD have been triggered by you changing the gear oil.
EDIT:
Or possibly the old plates had already worn enough to somehow make the issue less prominent... Why did you change the clutch in the first place? Could you give the old bits a try just to confirm it's not the assembly that's incorrect?
