Clutch

[Mightyman]

You are putting that ring inside the thinnest friction plate right?

[Calum]

@Ricky Yes that metal ring sits ontop of the thinnest friction plate which should be the first one that you insert into the clutch basket.

I am not sure what you are adjusting, but basically you loosen off the adjustment ends on the clutch perch and clutch actuator arm.

Get it roughly about right on the push rod end. Then hone it in on the actuator arm, and adjust at the perch as the plates wear down.

It makes more sense when you see someone do it.

[Jens Eskildsen]

Is the clutch basket worn with grooves in it? This would increase drag, and let the idle speed go down as the engine struggles a bit. If so they can be filed down untill smooth.

[Mightyman]

@Jens-Eskildsen I think the first post mentions it's a brand new clutch.

[Ricky]

@Mightyman yeah

[Ricky]

@Calum this is the order I put them in it lined the arrow on the pressure plate up with the dot on the clutch basket and I pushed the arm ( what the clutch cable connects to) to the front of the bike and turned the rod at the pressure plate end till the marks on the arm and crankcase lined up

[Ricky]

@Mightyman just new friction plates and metal plates and springs not the basket this is the clutch i got
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-DRC-COMPLETE-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-YAMAHA-DT-125-X-2005-2006-/131742599793?nav=SEARCH

[Mightyman]

@Ricky Oh! In that case, definitely could be a notched basket as @Jens-Eskildsen mentioned... Check out the walls of the basket where the edges of the friction plates slide into. If there are notches this would explain your low rev issue.

[Mightyman]

Image taken from sv650 forum. This is what the notches will look like. I doubt it will be as severe as this picture, but the notches shouldn't be there, it should look nice and smooth.

[Ricky]

@Mightyman but I don't understand why it only started since i put the new clutch in it never did it with the old clutch

[Mightyman]

It COULD have been triggered by you changing the gear oil.
EDIT:
Or possibly the old plates had already worn enough to somehow make the issue less prominent... Why did you change the clutch in the first place? Could you give the old bits a try just to confirm it's not the assembly that's incorrect?

[Ricky]

@Mightyman these are the old 1s I changed it because it wasn't going in gear and sometimes it would get stuck in gear so when I'd pull up it wouldn't shift up or down until i turned the engine off then it would move easy

[Mightyman]

@Ricky That's also consistent with a notched basket if I'm not mistaken.. Maybe your issue the whole time hasn't been the plates, but rather the basket. If the notches aren't too deep, try to file them down and see if it performs any better.

[Calum]

It not going into gear could be a variety of things. Worn selector forks, bearings, clutch assembly, clutch springs.

Sounds to me like the clutch isn't disengaging.

Again what I said earlier will tell you it is clutch disengagement problem.

Never heard of a worn basket on a dt before though. Maybe if it ran with no oil. My brother ran his dt gearbox on coolant and oil with no problems. So they are pretty well engineered.

[Ricky]

@Calum I took it to the local bike garage he said it sounds like 1 or both of push rods and ball I've had the bike on its side trying to get them out bit they don't want to come out so I'm going to get a magnet see if that works

[Mightyman]

I replaced mine as I thought they were the cause of a problem I had. Turned out they were fine and didn't have any effect on it. But worth a try for you I suppose!

[Ricky]

@Mightyman definitely worth a try get all 3 for £20

[Mightyman]

Do you have a picture of your clutch basket handy, just to rule that out?

[Ricky]

@Mightyman i will have later when i strip it again

[Calum]

Push rods and ball bearing. Sounds far fetched to me