Clutch
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My ktm exc developed a knocking /vibrating sound from the clutch side the knocking would vanish when the clutch lever was pulled in it turned out it just needed a new clutch basket damper cushion which fits between the clutch basket drive gear and the clutch basket... Can't remember if the dt 125 uses a similar set up its been a while since I've been inside that engine but could be worth looking in to! As for the revs dropping when in neutral both my dts done that to so don't think it's much to worry about.
@Biker_123 the revs drop when I put it in gear but to the point where it will cut out if I don't rev it
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Yeah DT's use a cushion ring.
Pretty sure it's because your clutch isn't properly disengaged
@Calum do you mean this ring and what's the best way to adjust it. I lined all the marks up and pushed the arm (what the clutch cable connects to) to the front of the bike and turned the rod at the pressure plate end till the marks on the arm and crankcase meet
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@Calum do you mean this ring and what's the best way to adjust it. I lined all the marks up and pushed the arm (what the clutch cable connects to) to the front of the bike and turned the rod at the pressure plate end till the marks on the arm and crankcase meet
@Ricky Yes that metal ring sits ontop of the thinnest friction plate which should be the first one that you insert into the clutch basket.
I am not sure what you are adjusting, but basically you loosen off the adjustment ends on the clutch perch and clutch actuator arm.
Get it roughly about right on the push rod end. Then hone it in on the actuator arm, and adjust at the perch as the plates wear down.
It makes more sense when you see someone do it.
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Is the clutch basket worn with grooves in it? This would increase drag, and let the idle speed go down as the engine struggles a bit. If so they can be filed down untill smooth.
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@Mightyman yeah
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@Ricky Yes that metal ring sits ontop of the thinnest friction plate which should be the first one that you insert into the clutch basket.
I am not sure what you are adjusting, but basically you loosen off the adjustment ends on the clutch perch and clutch actuator arm.
Get it roughly about right on the push rod end. Then hone it in on the actuator arm, and adjust at the perch as the plates wear down.
It makes more sense when you see someone do it.
@Calum this is the order I put them in it lined the arrow on the pressure plate up with the dot on the clutch basket and I pushed the arm ( what the clutch cable connects to) to the front of the bike and turned the rod at the pressure plate end till the marks on the arm and crankcase lined up
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@Jens-Eskildsen I think the first post mentions it's a brand new clutch.
@Mightyman just new friction plates and metal plates and springs not the basket this is the clutch i got
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-DRC-COMPLETE-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-YAMAHA-DT-125-X-2005-2006-/131742599793?nav=SEARCHDT 125X
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@Mightyman just new friction plates and metal plates and springs not the basket this is the clutch i got
http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/EBC-DRC-COMPLETE-CLUTCH-KIT-FITS-YAMAHA-DT-125-X-2005-2006-/131742599793?nav=SEARCH@Ricky Oh! In that case, definitely could be a notched basket as @Jens-Eskildsen mentioned... Check out the walls of the basket where the edges of the friction plates slide into. If there are notches this would explain your low rev issue.
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@Ricky Oh! In that case, definitely could be a notched basket as @Jens-Eskildsen mentioned... Check out the walls of the basket where the edges of the friction plates slide into. If there are notches this would explain your low rev issue.
@Mightyman but I don't understand why it only started since i put the new clutch in it never did it with the old clutch
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It COULD have been triggered by you changing the gear oil.
EDIT:
Or possibly the old plates had already worn enough to somehow make the issue less prominent... Why did you change the clutch in the first place? Could you give the old bits a try just to confirm it's not the assembly that's incorrect?TDR 125 - 2001
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It COULD have been triggered by you changing the gear oil.
EDIT:
Or possibly the old plates had already worn enough to somehow make the issue less prominent... Why did you change the clutch in the first place? Could you give the old bits a try just to confirm it's not the assembly that's incorrect? -
@Mightyman these are the old 1s I changed it because it wasn't going in gear and sometimes it would get stuck in gear so when I'd pull up it wouldn't shift up or down until i turned the engine off then it would move easy
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It not going into gear could be a variety of things. Worn selector forks, bearings, clutch assembly, clutch springs.
Sounds to me like the clutch isn't disengaging.
Again what I said earlier will tell you it is clutch disengagement problem.
Never heard of a worn basket on a dt before though. Maybe if it ran with no oil. My brother ran his dt gearbox on coolant and oil with no problems. So they are pretty well engineered.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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It not going into gear could be a variety of things. Worn selector forks, bearings, clutch assembly, clutch springs.
Sounds to me like the clutch isn't disengaging.
Again what I said earlier will tell you it is clutch disengagement problem.
Never heard of a worn basket on a dt before though. Maybe if it ran with no oil. My brother ran his dt gearbox on coolant and oil with no problems. So they are pretty well engineered.
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I replaced mine as I thought they were the cause of a problem I had. Turned out they were fine and didn't have any effect on it. But worth a try for you I suppose!
@Mightyman definitely worth a try get all 3 for £20
