Kick stand kill switch
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I noticed yesterday when I was going to start her up after a long ride (I literally shut her off and put the sidestand down and was going to start her up again immediately).
But no, it wouldn't fire. So I thought of bumpstarting, and it fired immediately.
Didn't really think much about it for the rest of the day, but this morning it wouldn't start with the stand down. It cuts the ignition when the stand is down, in neutral or not.
Is there any point disassembling it? Or should I ordered a new?
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@irongamer727 Sounds more like the neutral switch is faulty.
Does it start if you pull the clutch in?
@calum I'll try
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It starts with the stand down and the clutch in.
But cuts out as soon as I release the clutch(in neutral) -
It starts with the stand down and the clutch in.
But cuts out as soon as I release the clutch(in neutral)@irongamer727 Definitely one of the switches have failed. I still need my morning coffee to think about which one.
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Check and clean the neutral switch, also test earth at connector to battery or frame, had both before
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@oldman where's the neutral switch?
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@irongamer727 Under the gear lever. It's the black plastic tapped m8 or 10 bolt.
@calum yeah of course, should I just clean it off? Or follow the cable all the way up?
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I've cleaned everything up. The neutral lamp and all that works. Could it still be faulty?
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I found the earth was faulty on my red bike, see posts, corroded and oxidised cable. If you have a multimeter test resistance of the cable. Easier to remove loom and take loom tape off and examine earth in detail if testing shows fault
@oldman But did your neutral lamp work? I'm out if ideas. How could I test the earth?
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Isnt it worth someone measuring resistance of the kill switch on another dt ? And purchasing a cheap resistor of same Ohms and that should do it ?
P.s im new here.
@dt125matt The switch is just that, a switch. So banging a resistor won't make a difference if the switch has gone faulty.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@dt125matt The switch is just that, a switch. So banging a resistor won't make a difference if the switch has gone faulty.
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@calum ideas on what to try?
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@irongamer727 Loop it out if you're struggling mate.
@calum loop it out?
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@dt125matt The switch is just that, a switch. So banging a resistor won't make a difference if the switch has gone faulty.
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@calum anything that has current running through will have some form of resistance.
I deal with a lot of pro audio and everything from connectors to cable give resistance which is where my thoughts were laying.
It could be worth still measuring?
@dt125matt That's when detecting if the component has gone faulty. Measuring it's impedance.
But since a switch will have infinite internal resistance when open, then the results will be misleading.
Use impedance testing for say, Coil, Regulator
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You say that but its similar to a seat belt light with a pressure plate in the seat...
Essentially its just a open close switch.... open when no one is seated ....
Closed when seated...
Try to loop these and you will still have a seat belt light... because there is a resistance thats caused by the switch.... maybe only 0.6 ohms but its enough. Only way to get over that is looping via a resistor.Obviously i must be mistaken in way of the DT, as i am new to this side of the mechanical world but its just an idea !
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You say that but its similar to a seat belt light with a pressure plate in the seat...
Essentially its just a open close switch.... open when no one is seated ....
Closed when seated...
Try to loop these and you will still have a seat belt light... because there is a resistance thats caused by the switch.... maybe only 0.6 ohms but its enough. Only way to get over that is looping via a resistor.Obviously i must be mistaken in way of the DT, as i am new to this side of the mechanical world but its just an idea !
@dt125matt Yeah, I get your reasoning. But literally on the DT it's just a switch.
I know, cause I've had them fail before and just looped them out the circuit.
