HELP I HAVE A SPARK WHEN IGNITION IS OFF BUT NOT WHEN ON
-
Hi there did you find out the problem as from what you are saying I have the same problem also my loom is brand new out of packet so it’s definitely not the loom as my problem is the same as yours I’m putting it down to stator???
wrote on 19 Jul 2020, 17:46 last edited by@jamie1992 did you get this sorted in the end what was causing it
-
wrote on 19 Jul 2020, 18:15 last edited by
I had this years ago. Faulty side stand was fo blame. I just bypassed it and the ignition barrel.
For a long time used to just start it up with the ignition in the off position and kick it over whilst simultaneously switching it to the on position.
-
I had this years ago. Faulty side stand was fo blame. I just bypassed it and the ignition barrel.
For a long time used to just start it up with the ignition in the off position and kick it over whilst simultaneously switching it to the on position.
-
wrote on 12 Apr 2025, 20:04 last edited by
hi i know its a long shot anyone know which wire tends to be broken
-
wrote on 12 Apr 2025, 20:24 last edited by
Check the side stand switch circuit.
-
wrote 29 days ago last edited by
done all that bud looped the side stand switch kill switch and 2 loops in the ignition block
i remove the loop on the kill switch no spark so thats good
i remove the loop in the ignition block ( blue\white & blue\yellow ) no spark so good but as soon as i remove the main loop ( red & brown ) spark returns (that would be ignition & kill switch in the off position) -
wrote 29 days ago last edited by
Can't remember if the side stand is NC or NO. Looping stuff might night work if that's the case.
Have you got a wiring diagram handy? There is one in the Haynes for your model.
My advice would be to put it back to stock and not just randomly looping stuff.
-
wrote 28 days ago last edited by
yes i had everything stock every thing tests ok but still the same problem
i was trying to eliminate the switches -
wrote 28 days ago last edited by
i have read somewhere that a broken wire in the loom will cause it to spark with ignition off i've tested the loom on and off the bike but all seems ok
-
wrote 28 days ago last edited by vtrtomuk
Hi all im going thought the same situation right now!
Not to hijack your thread here Gazza,
now i do have 2 looms to play with. one is a genuine Yamaha 3RM the other is a unknown.
the genuine one i have no problems with. but the other one i have has the same issue as you Gazza, if bypass the Kill and Side stand Switch with a loop and i then bridge all the pins on the ignition block then i get no spark, however if i then remove the pins from red and brown. the spark returns.
now the switches work by bridging the connections to red and brown and B/w to B/y respectivly.
like i said i have a genuine 3RM loom to and that is fine so i know the components are absoulutly fine. and the bike runs
its just with this unknown loom that i have an issue with. @gazza76 im curious to know did you get this loom from ebay a 3rd party made aftermarket one?
-
wrote 28 days ago last edited by
been over it again today still no joy time to send the cdi for a test it's a strange one that yours works with one and not the other
i've seen one with the same symptoms and it was cdi and others say side stand or broken wire in the loom its only £40 to get the cdi tested so thats my next step if you do figure it out please let me know -
wrote 25 days ago last edited byThis post is deleted!
-
wrote 21 days ago last edited by
Hi all, new to the forum and as you imagine, I have came across this very issue.
Now, full disclosure, my 3RM was running fine until I had it all disassembled and had the frame powder coated, which tells me either I screw up the electrics beforehand or, the power coat prevents grounding.
By any chance does anyone faced this issue after having the chassis re-painted? And if so, which areas or wires do we need to make sure are properly earthed?
Thanks a lot and cheers from Spain.
El Pedro -
Hi all, new to the forum and as you imagine, I have came across this very issue.
Now, full disclosure, my 3RM was running fine until I had it all disassembled and had the frame powder coated, which tells me either I screw up the electrics beforehand or, the power coat prevents grounding.
By any chance does anyone faced this issue after having the chassis re-painted? And if so, which areas or wires do we need to make sure are properly earthed?
Thanks a lot and cheers from Spain.
El Pedrowrote 21 days ago last edited by HOTSHOT III@Marillionado Hi, welcome to the Forum!
Not very familiar with the 3RM but on the earlier 3NC and 3MB bikes you do need to remove the powder coat where the coil attaches to the frame for a really good earth connection. It's also where the loom earths to the frame (the black ring terminal) and IIRC this attaches at the rearmost (i.e nearest the shock) coil mount. Lastly, only one mounting point on some of the coils is an earth so it's important you mount the coil the correct way, it should look like this:
-
wrote 21 days ago last edited by
Mate....THANK YOU!!!
-
wrote 20 days ago last edited by Marillionado
While I check if that is indeed the issue, allow me to share the "before and after" of my troubled rebuild (tried uploading but it seems all my images are too large to compute, sorry):
Before:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/10vFChB0EYgA4KcdGXxD0ADUuBkG3_3L1/view?usp=drive_linkAfter:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-vahreq0O_fcCLm1wl73cvFQxRDeTEqF/view?usp=drive_link -
wrote 13 days ago last edited by
@gazza76 sorry for the late reply, after getting the multimeter out, mine was a black earth issue, so inside the loom i had 1 wire was dead, this was the black runing from the loom to the connector block for the side stand, i also then had a Black terminal on the nutural relay at the back that was not creating a connection.
maybe it helps you, easiest way i found was mulitmeter to the frame earth point at the coil. and stick the meter in contunaty mode, should beep when you touch the prongs together. and then probe all the black earths across the loom.
Cheers
