So Close!...
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I’m having some real problems removing the base barrel studs from the right hand clutch side casing of an engine I’m getting together for building. The flywheel side studs came out easy enough with heat and 2 nuts cinched onto it.
I don’t know if the locator dowel tubes are making it more difficult to get heat into them but they just won’t budge no matter how much heat I apply. The main crank bearing actually fell out while I was trying!! I’ve been putting WD40 into the dowel tubes before and after heating and trying to remove the studs, but no luck yet. If anyone knows of any arcane methods of extraction please let me know
…@SpookDog Clutch side cylinder studs: If you can get the locator dowels out first, that will expose all the rust/corrosion lurking between the stud and the dowel which you can then remove somehow without damaging the surrounding gasket face (wire brush/sharp thin things etc.); this will give the penetrating fluid a better shot at the actual stud/crankcase interface.
I had a set of 90 degree squares from Lidl and the handles were extruded aluminium; inside there was a round hole roughly the same size as the dowel OD running right along the handle. So I cut a 20mm or so section off the end, then made a hacksaw cut along the length of the hole so it could be opened out a little. Fitted it over the dowel with a little valve grinding paste for grip, then clamped it with mole grips on the ally so it gripped right around the circumference of the dowel without crushing it. Still took some persuasion/heat to remove the dowels and I replaced them with new but it got them out clean.
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@SpookDog Clutch side cylinder studs: If you can get the locator dowels out first, that will expose all the rust/corrosion lurking between the stud and the dowel which you can then remove somehow without damaging the surrounding gasket face (wire brush/sharp thin things etc.); this will give the penetrating fluid a better shot at the actual stud/crankcase interface.
I had a set of 90 degree squares from Lidl and the handles were extruded aluminium; inside there was a round hole roughly the same size as the dowel OD running right along the handle. So I cut a 20mm or so section off the end, then made a hacksaw cut along the length of the hole so it could be opened out a little. Fitted it over the dowel with a little valve grinding paste for grip, then clamped it with mole grips on the ally so it gripped right around the circumference of the dowel without crushing it. Still took some persuasion/heat to remove the dowels and I replaced them with new but it got them out clean.
Fair play guys, I practiced on an old casing and got both out by heating inside the casing where the oil seal retainer screws in. So the heat went into where the thread was, not just the dowels. Got both out the old casing, got one out of the ‘good’ casing then the last one snapped off deep inside. I kinda lost it with a lump hammer after that
…Anyone got a decent right hand casing that they don’t want?
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@SpookDog Contact Mike at Salisbury Wheel Builders (now in Ringwood) on 07967 548015. Very good reputation locally, does everything from modern MX bikes to 100-year-old Brough Superiors, can make new spokes and supply new rims, everything
@HOTSHOT-III brough superior SS100 is my dream bike. T E. Lawrence of Arabia comes to mind.
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Fair play guys, I practiced on an old casing and got both out by heating inside the casing where the oil seal retainer screws in. So the heat went into where the thread was, not just the dowels. Got both out the old casing, got one out of the ‘good’ casing then the last one snapped off deep inside. I kinda lost it with a lump hammer after that
…Anyone got a decent right hand casing that they don’t want?
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They are magnificent looking bikes, no? There was one on display in a bike shop in Gillingham Dorst a few years ago. I’d never seen one before…
I got another casing for £20 coming soon. Round 2!
Electrolysis?
Has anyone ever done this to remove rust from inside of a petrol tank?…
Here’s the ybr tap with an adorable little filter that is absolutely top drawer quality, internal o~ring seal and all!
It’s a same fit as a dtr or Tzr (shown) tap. The cool thing is that it’s effective as a water trap as well as being a wicked little filter!…
You can fit a proper looking tap ‘handle’ to it as well. It will need a bit of surgery with a Dremel or such on the rear of the‘handle’ though. you can see the difference below:
I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s a wicked little filter upgrade and watertrap, if nothing else…
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Electrolysis?
Has anyone ever done this to remove rust from inside of a petrol tank?…
Here’s the ybr tap with an adorable little filter that is absolutely top drawer quality, internal o~ring seal and all!
It’s a same fit as a dtr or Tzr (shown) tap. The cool thing is that it’s effective as a water trap as well as being a wicked little filter!…
You can fit a proper looking tap ‘handle’ to it as well. It will need a bit of surgery with a Dremel or such on the rear of the‘handle’ though. you can see the difference below:
I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s a wicked little filter upgrade and watertrap, if nothing else…
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Electrolysis?
Has anyone ever done this to remove rust from inside of a petrol tank?…
Here’s the ybr tap with an adorable little filter that is absolutely top drawer quality, internal o~ring seal and all!
It’s a same fit as a dtr or Tzr (shown) tap. The cool thing is that it’s effective as a water trap as well as being a wicked little filter!…
You can fit a proper looking tap ‘handle’ to it as well. It will need a bit of surgery with a Dremel or such on the rear of the‘handle’ though. you can see the difference below:
I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s a wicked little filter upgrade and watertrap, if nothing else…
@SpookDog That is a nice tap, guess it has that filter to stop any foreign objects entering the YBR's fuel injection system
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@SpookDog That is a nice tap, guess it has that filter to stop any foreign objects entering the YBR's fuel injection system
Cheers guy’s! Another question: barrel dowels? Mainly where to purchase them & how much. I could probably make some but would rather use the proper ones. If they don’t fall out I seem to be destined to destroy them
…PS Gotten hold of a pair of rear indicators from a SR125 with the elusive mounting brackets. They look identical to the ones fitted to early Dtr125’s. I won’t know if they are the same PNs’ till I lay hands on them but they were £15 for the pair
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Cheers guy’s! Another question: barrel dowels? Mainly where to purchase them & how much. I could probably make some but would rather use the proper ones. If they don’t fall out I seem to be destined to destroy them
…PS Gotten hold of a pair of rear indicators from a SR125 with the elusive mounting brackets. They look identical to the ones fitted to early Dtr125’s. I won’t know if they are the same PNs’ till I lay hands on them but they were £15 for the pair
…@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Cheers guy’s! Another question: barrel dowels? Mainly where to purchase them & how much. I could probably make some but would rather use the proper ones. If they don’t fall out I seem to be destined to destroy them
…Genuine from Fowlers, get some new cylinder studs/nuts at the same time, some fasteners are worth buying genuine and they're not expensive
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Electrolysis?
Has anyone ever done this to remove rust from inside of a petrol tank?…
Here’s the ybr tap with an adorable little filter that is absolutely top drawer quality, internal o~ring seal and all!
It’s a same fit as a dtr or Tzr (shown) tap. The cool thing is that it’s effective as a water trap as well as being a wicked little filter!…
You can fit a proper looking tap ‘handle’ to it as well. It will need a bit of surgery with a Dremel or such on the rear of the‘handle’ though. you can see the difference below:
I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s a wicked little filter upgrade and watertrap, if nothing else…
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I ended up getting some titanium ones when I built my engine. I replaced all the engine bolts with Titanium and when all the bots are done you do shave off a good amount of weight.
The front engine mount can also be replaced with titanium, the chap had it listed as a Honda Grom engine mount bolt but also fits DTR.
I just bought the engine mount brackets in Titanium as well.
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@SpookDog That is a nice tap, guess it has that filter to stop any foreign objects entering the YBR's fuel injection system
@HOTSHOT-III certainly makes sense.
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Cheers guy’s! Another question: barrel dowels? Mainly where to purchase them & how much. I could probably make some but would rather use the proper ones. If they don’t fall out I seem to be destined to destroy them
…Genuine from Fowlers, get some new cylinder studs/nuts at the same time, some fasteners are worth buying genuine and they're not expensive
I’d rather reuse the old ones than use non genuine ones!. I had some shiny ones come with a barrel I brought and they were shite. I sheared one off and it’d only been in a month or two!…
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I’d rather reuse the old ones than use non genuine ones!. I had some shiny ones come with a barrel I brought and they were shite. I sheared one off and it’d only been in a month or two!…
Anyone clean the carb bowl and jets without removing the carb? It’s my one pet hate, all the hassle of removing and refitting the carb. Not to mention the potential damage to the rubbers every time you do! I’m wondering if you can empty it then remove the slide and just twist it 45deg to get to the bowl screws and then jets?…
I’ve got water/crap in my carb yet again
Time to put the new tap on tonight, I was going to do it this afternoon but a kestrel was eating a pidgeon (sp?) 10 foot away from where I work… -
Anyone clean the carb bowl and jets without removing the carb? It’s my one pet hate, all the hassle of removing and refitting the carb. Not to mention the potential damage to the rubbers every time you do! I’m wondering if you can empty it then remove the slide and just twist it 45deg to get to the bowl screws and then jets?…
I’ve got water/crap in my carb yet again
Time to put the new tap on tonight, I was going to do it this afternoon but a kestrel was eating a pidgeon (sp?) 10 foot away from where I work… -
Got my new replacement casing for my lump hammer spat the other night. Managed to get the barrel base studs out after a few try’s and some bloodshed and stuff…
It doesn’t look too bad…
I did manage to break a crescent of ally off that looks like it retains oil though
always something…
I wish I knew a Tig welder!…
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Got my new replacement casing for my lump hammer spat the other night. Managed to get the barrel base studs out after a few try’s and some bloodshed and stuff…
It doesn’t look too bad…
I did manage to break a crescent of ally off that looks like it retains oil though
always something…I wish I knew a Tig welder!…
PS The cheap blind bearing puller I got from fleaBay for £12 works really well. It removed the two needle bearings and the awkward balancer shaft bearing nicely.
Got a new input shaft needle bearing ordered (£30!) and just need the size of the clutch actuator needle bearing now so that I can order it… -
PS The cheap blind bearing puller I got from fleaBay for £12 works really well. It removed the two needle bearings and the awkward balancer shaft bearing nicely.
Got a new input shaft needle bearing ordered (£30!) and just need the size of the clutch actuator needle bearing now so that I can order it… -
@Calum
I’m such a martyr …I can’t believe the input shaft needle/roller bearing turned up today already! I just wish we had better weather. Cleaning up the casings & gubbins is bad enough, but trying to build anything on a windy day is a nightmare. Crap flying everywhere! Actually, I wish I had a workshop, or a shed even
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@Calum
I’m such a martyr …I can’t believe the input shaft needle/roller bearing turned up today already! I just wish we had better weather. Cleaning up the casings & gubbins is bad enough, but trying to build anything on a windy day is a nightmare. Crap flying everywhere! Actually, I wish I had a workshop, or a shed even
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