So Close!...
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Hi guys
Off the top of your head what psi are you getting on compression test?
Thank you! -
Yep, the 2T pump lower 4mm screw/bolt hole goes all the way through to the nylon cog on the inside…
Plugged it with a screw/bolt…Oil & brakes? Who would of guessed?
…Engines running sweetly, got the rear disc and calliper cleaned up, so have good brakes again. Only thing is that the right side indicators have stopped working along with the indicator dash light. Also got to wait for PJME to get the crank in stock. Always something on a 35 year old basket case, eh?
Also got the new headstock bearing half way on and it won’t budge!…
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Engines running sweetly, got the rear disc and calliper cleaned up, so have good brakes again. Only thing is that the right side indicators have stopped working along with the indicator dash light. Also got to wait for PJME to get the crank in stock. Always something on a 35 year old basket case, eh?
Also got the new headstock bearing half way on and it won’t budge!…
With my bearing I put the headstock in the freezer to shrink it ever so slightly then heat the bearing up really bit to expand it, then quickly drop it on few taps with a rod on the inner race of the bearing all the way around and it seated lovely.
First one I’ve done on dtr though I did one on a kx and the tolerances was so tight it didn’t work I had to get a tube that fit over the stem and onto the inner race and long enough to clear the top and few taps with hammer got it seated, wouldn’t damage the bearing as all force was on the inner race -
Engines running sweetly, got the rear disc and calliper cleaned up, so have good brakes again. Only thing is that the right side indicators have stopped working along with the indicator dash light. Also got to wait for PJME to get the crank in stock. Always something on a 35 year old basket case, eh?
Also got the new headstock bearing half way on and it won’t budge!…
@SpookDog Have you machine-gunned your handlebar switches with WD40/GT85 lately? Just spray loads in until it fizzes and bubbles out of every orifice. Lots of little spring-loaded leccy contacty things inside them, it's a harsh environment for a switch. Good post-jet wash routine to get into
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@SpookDog Have you machine-gunned your handlebar switches with WD40/GT85 lately? Just spray loads in until it fizzes and bubbles out of every orifice. Lots of little spring-loaded leccy contacty things inside them, it's a harsh environment for a switch. Good post-jet wash routine to get into
First thing I tried
gonna investigate it some more today…I had it in the freezer for a few days! It was so cold wd40 was freezing on it into slush, couldn’t heat the bearing though. It has the bottom rubber seal fitted into it. Never seen one like it before…
Gonna have to find a steel pipe
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First thing I tried
gonna investigate it some more today…I had it in the freezer for a few days! It was so cold wd40 was freezing on it into slush, couldn’t heat the bearing though. It has the bottom rubber seal fitted into it. Never seen one like it before…
Gonna have to find a steel pipe…Does anyone else with an early bike 88~96 have issues with the headlight dimming when the brake light comes on? It’s been bugging me forever since getting the bike! The headlight runs off of a/c directly from the stator coil, but the brake light is run off of the battery, it shouldn’t affect it! The only thing I can think of is that they share an earth?! I’ve just rigged up an earth to the frame straight from the battery. I’m gonna see if that helps any. The neutral light looks stronger anyways, as is the PV on the key
…Fixed the indicators (& intermittent speedo bulb). Six new bullet connectors behind the headlight!! (& 1 bulb) The last couple years have been hard on the loom! Everything looks brighter on the battery now
…Almost forgot: This may sound stupid, but: 2T oil from the exhaust ‘filming over’ the battery top, could it diminish the output amp/voltage? Mine was coated and the power valve & neutral light had gotten ‘sluggish’. It’s better since cleaning, but I’m not sure if it was this or a poor earth to the battery? I guess I’ll try not connecting the earth, later after night testing…
I wish I knew a motor cycle electrician/Wizard
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Does anyone else with an early bike 88~96 have issues with the headlight dimming when the brake light comes on? It’s been bugging me forever since getting the bike! The headlight runs off of a/c directly from the stator coil, but the brake light is run off of the battery, it shouldn’t affect it! The only thing I can think of is that they share an earth?! I’ve just rigged up an earth to the frame straight from the battery. I’m gonna see if that helps any. The neutral light looks stronger anyways, as is the PV on the key
…Fixed the indicators (& intermittent speedo bulb). Six new bullet connectors behind the headlight!! (& 1 bulb) The last couple years have been hard on the loom! Everything looks brighter on the battery now
…Almost forgot: This may sound stupid, but: 2T oil from the exhaust ‘filming over’ the battery top, could it diminish the output amp/voltage? Mine was coated and the power valve & neutral light had gotten ‘sluggish’. It’s better since cleaning, but I’m not sure if it was this or a poor earth to the battery? I guess I’ll try not connecting the earth, later after night testing…
I wish I knew a motor cycle electrician/Wizard
️…Headlight dimming when brake light is on: I really would like to know if other people with early 3 coil stator all have this problem. If I know it’s just my bike I can go about tracking it down and fixing the problem…
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Headlight dimming when brake light is on: I really would like to know if other people with early 3 coil stator all have this problem. If I know it’s just my bike I can go about tracking it down and fixing the problem…
@SpookDog Lights dimming with brake lights/indicators/horn is not really a problem as such, we discussed this back in March IIRC. All the early DTRs I've owned have done this, the combined AC/DC electrical system is unique to the DTR:
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Headlight dimming when brake light is on: I really would like to know if other people with early 3 coil stator all have this problem. If I know it’s just my bike I can go about tracking it down and fixing the problem…
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@SpookDog Lights dimming with brake lights/indicators/horn is not really a problem as such, we discussed this back in March IIRC. All the early DTRs I've owned have done this, the combined AC/DC electrical system is unique to the DTR:
Cheers bud! Mine dips regardless of revs. Tickover I could deal with…
@HOTSHOT-III
I can remember bringing it up but not if it got resolved in any way. It’s just gotten more noticeable the last couple nights I’ve ridden. Plus my electricals have gotten gremlins the last couple days…Oh yeah! My brake light just blew…
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Unbelievable! Half way on a commute I’ve lost all power to the indicators, dash lights, ect. The AC to the headlight, tail light and dial lights is still there. If it was the battery I’d still have working indicators, ect, when the engines running wouldn’t I?…
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Unbelievable! Half way on a commute I’ve lost all power to the indicators, dash lights, ect. The AC to the headlight, tail light and dial lights is still there. If it was the battery I’d still have working indicators, ect, when the engines running wouldn’t I?…
Wow! It was just the fuse, only had a 5a fitted. I didn’t realise that the battery carried 90% of the load for ancillaries! Makes me wonder even more about why it takes power away from the headlight!?! I need to try a different RR…
I think it might be a weak earth. There was this ‘trick’ we used to do when water cooling PCs. The 12v fans were too loud so we would wire +12v to the fans positive and wire +5v to the negative. This would run the fan at 7v so it was quieter. Maybe something along these lines is happening?…
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Wow! It was just the fuse, only had a 5a fitted. I didn’t realise that the battery carried 90% of the load for ancillaries! Makes me wonder even more about why it takes power away from the headlight!?! I need to try a different RR…
I think it might be a weak earth. There was this ‘trick’ we used to do when water cooling PCs. The 12v fans were too loud so we would wire +12v to the fans positive and wire +5v to the negative. This would run the fan at 7v so it was quieter. Maybe something along these lines is happening?…
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Blown again! Could a ‘sticky’ power valve cause it to blow? The PV runs off of the battery, yes?
I used some non Castrol 2T oil and it leaves gum on the power valve… -
Ta Daa! For today’s drama! We have a snapped PV cable that appears to have been stuck together by the inner lining and kinda still operating!
Time to strip & clean the PV!…
