Engine rattleing after complete Rebuild
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@zx125 was your powervalve machined too? The rings might be catching pull the valve out and inspect also check the valve bushings for excessive wear, sure your piston is sized right it could be piston slap
I just checked the Powervalve and it has some axial play but i cant feel any radial play. The Piston and Powervalve have no marks at all. It is my first 2 stroke Engine and I dont realy know if this axial play could cause the noise. Does anyone else have axial play in their powervalve and experiences rattleing?
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Hello,
I have just rebuild my entire engine. All bearings and seals were replaced, the cylinder got honed to +0.25, got a new Meteor piston and the crankshaft got a new rod and got straightend. The Engine seams to have no leaks at all and starts up great. The only problem is a pretty annoying ratteling sound when the engine is decelerating. The clutch does not affect this sound also it appears when i m in gear and the clutch is pulled. Its exactly the same sound as in this Video:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pbfH93HpAtoDo you have any Ideas what could cause this noise?
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I just checked the Powervalve and it has some axial play but i cant feel any radial play. The Piston and Powervalve have no marks at all. It is my first 2 stroke Engine and I dont realy know if this axial play could cause the noise. Does anyone else have axial play in their powervalve and experiences rattleing?
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@zx125
That sounds like the kickstart cog isn’t disconnecting to me. The clicking sound you get if you push down the kickstart while the engine is running? -
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@zx125
Same as but with the electric start motor. Make sure that it’s disengaging. Take it off and bump start it. At least try to check it off the list... -
I just checked the Powervalve and it has some axial play but i cant feel any radial play. The Piston and Powervalve have no marks at all. It is my first 2 stroke Engine and I dont realy know if this axial play could cause the noise. Does anyone else have axial play in their powervalve and experiences rattleing?
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@zx125 Have you check the head gasket if it has marks,how much squish gap for possible piston slap,are the dowel pins in place?
@madgyver haven´t checked the headgasket yet cause i didnt want to take it apart if i dont have to and hadn´t had time to check if the PW Play is the reason for that sound. If that sound does not come from the powervalve play i´ll have to take it apart. I took a 0.8 mm cylinderfoot gasket I think, and the head was straight, it wasnt planed, so there should be enough squish gap but please correct me if i took the wrong gasket or did something wrong here. I think there should be enough space but i´ll check all solution approaches this weekend and I´m so grateful that ya´ll have so many Ideas what could be wrong. I will give an Update this weekend. All dowelpins are in place and all bolts were torqued to spec.
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I had a DT125R engine that developed a random rattle once, turned out that the flywheel had come slightly loose and was moving on the crank.
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@madgyver haven´t checked the headgasket yet cause i didnt want to take it apart if i dont have to and hadn´t had time to check if the PW Play is the reason for that sound. If that sound does not come from the powervalve play i´ll have to take it apart. I took a 0.8 mm cylinderfoot gasket I think, and the head was straight, it wasnt planed, so there should be enough squish gap but please correct me if i took the wrong gasket or did something wrong here. I think there should be enough space but i´ll check all solution approaches this weekend and I´m so grateful that ya´ll have so many Ideas what could be wrong. I will give an Update this weekend. All dowelpins are in place and all bolts were torqued to spec.
Every cog in the engine is meshed together permanently, except the starter cog which is designed to engage when the starter is depressed and to slip if the kick start is kept down with the engine running, or the starter stays engaged. I don’t know about dtre starters, but car ones push forward as they are energised and rotate in much the same way...
The only other thing I can think of is that some different pistons use different small end bearings. If these can be mixed up I don’t know, but only one of the above makes any sense to me if it’s only making the noise on the over ~run...
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Every cog in the engine is meshed together permanently, except the starter cog which is designed to engage when the starter is depressed and to slip if the kick start is kept down with the engine running, or the starter stays engaged. I don’t know about dtre starters, but car ones push forward as they are energised and rotate in much the same way...
The only other thing I can think of is that some different pistons use different small end bearings. If these can be mixed up I don’t know, but only one of the above makes any sense to me if it’s only making the noise on the over ~run...
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@spookdog So I had the Flywheel cover off today and and the starter overrunning clutch seems to be ok. Also there is no play in the mainbearings and there are no oil leaks at all. I think I´ll take of the cylinder tomorrow and check the small end bearing. the noise only appears when the enginge is decelerating and not on tickover.
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@spookdog So I had the Flywheel cover off today and and the starter overrunning clutch seems to be ok. Also there is no play in the mainbearings and there are no oil leaks at all. I think I´ll take of the cylinder tomorrow and check the small end bearing. the noise only appears when the enginge is decelerating and not on tickover.
@zx125 not a loose exhaust is it making noise on the overrun?
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@spookdog So I had the Flywheel cover off today and and the starter overrunning clutch seems to be ok. Also there is no play in the mainbearings and there are no oil leaks at all. I think I´ll take of the cylinder tomorrow and check the small end bearing. the noise only appears when the enginge is decelerating and not on tickover.
@zx125 said in Engine rattleing after complete Rebuild:
@spookdog I think I´ll take of the cylinder tomorrow and check the small end bearing
I think that’s your only option
The only time I ever had a noise like that it was because my barrel & piston were badly worn. You could get a lolly stick between the two! My piston was slapping around on the overrun. I don’t think it’s that because of the rebuild. It’s just the only other thing I can think of ...
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Hello,
First of all I want to thank everybody for your constructive answers.
sadly i hadn´t had time for my project bike this summer. After I checked the piston size it was clear that the loud ratling was piston slap because the clearance between bore and piston was around 0,09-0,1 mm instead of 0,05 mm. So I got a new piston that fits the bore of my cylinder, installed it and the bike ran way smoother. But after around 200-300 km I realized a new sound coming from the left side of the Engine. I uploaded a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj7QRH6IZOcI hope somebody has an Idea what this ringing sound could be. sounds like a bad bearing to me but all bearings were replaced like 350 km ago and when changing the piston the big end bearing and the main crankbearings had no radial play at all. I think the sound is coming from the left side of the Engine. Also I´d like to note that the clutchbasket has some play but the sounds doesn´t seem to come from the right side of the bike. except this noise the engine runs great and it seems to have good power as far as i can tell because i have not been reving higher than 6500 rpm.
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Hello,
First of all I want to thank everybody for your constructive answers.
sadly i hadn´t had time for my project bike this summer. After I checked the piston size it was clear that the loud ratling was piston slap because the clearance between bore and piston was around 0,09-0,1 mm instead of 0,05 mm. So I got a new piston that fits the bore of my cylinder, installed it and the bike ran way smoother. But after around 200-300 km I realized a new sound coming from the left side of the Engine. I uploaded a video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qj7QRH6IZOcI hope somebody has an Idea what this ringing sound could be. sounds like a bad bearing to me but all bearings were replaced like 350 km ago and when changing the piston the big end bearing and the main crankbearings had no radial play at all. I think the sound is coming from the left side of the Engine. Also I´d like to note that the clutchbasket has some play but the sounds doesn´t seem to come from the right side of the bike. except this noise the engine runs great and it seems to have good power as far as i can tell because i have not been reving higher than 6500 rpm.
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@spookdog That´s not impossible since its my first two stroke bike and I normally drive a 600 ccm 4 cylinder which runs way smoother. I don´t realy know how to describe the sound but I think ringing wasn´t the best word to describe the sound. It is most audible to me from around 0:08-0:15 when the engine is decelerating and to me it seems to have the crank RPM if it is a rotating part so probably nothing gearbox related. But it´s good to hear that the engine sounds normal.
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@spookdog That´s not impossible since its my first two stroke bike and I normally drive a 600 ccm 4 cylinder which runs way smoother. I don´t realy know how to describe the sound but I think ringing wasn´t the best word to describe the sound. It is most audible to me from around 0:08-0:15 when the engine is decelerating and to me it seems to have the crank RPM if it is a rotating part so probably nothing gearbox related. But it´s good to hear that the engine sounds normal.
@zx125 When rebuilding the engine, you must ensure that you timed it appropriately.
Whilst on a two stroke engine there are no cam shafts to time, a lot of engines still have timing marks. On these engines the timing marks denote top dead centre on the crank shaft and the balancer shaft.
These must be timed correctly otherwise you will encur excessive vibrations, and likely ringing, from your engine.
Are you confident that you reassembled the balancer shaft appropriately?
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@zx125 When rebuilding the engine, you must ensure that you timed it appropriately.
Whilst on a two stroke engine there are no cam shafts to time, a lot of engines still have timing marks. On these engines the timing marks denote top dead centre on the crank shaft and the balancer shaft.
These must be timed correctly otherwise you will encur excessive vibrations, and likely ringing, from your engine.
Are you confident that you reassembled the balancer shaft appropriately?
@calum Thank you for your answer. Yes I´m confident that the balancer shaft and crank align proper acording to my repair manual. On my engine there is one mark on the cranks gear and and one on the balancer shafts gear and these are aligned correct. I think they can only be alinged in 1 position because of the keyweys and the 1:1 gear ratio but please correct me if I´m wrong here.
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@calum Thank you for your answer. Yes I´m confident that the balancer shaft and crank align proper acording to my repair manual. On my engine there is one mark on the cranks gear and and one on the balancer shafts gear and these are aligned correct. I think they can only be alinged in 1 position because of the keyweys and the 1:1 gear ratio but please correct me if I´m wrong here.
@zx125 Sure, as long as the timing marks are aligned then that's fine.
The clutch basket has a rubber union connecting the primary shaft to the output shaft.
This rubber can deterioate over time. Did you notice any slack in the basket.
I'm just trying to throw ideas at you for noisy operation.
On that note, the clutch plates themselves must also be balanced. I assume this was done correct. This will also cause noise.
