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DT125R FORUM

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  4. DT125X front fork speed wobble

DT125X front fork speed wobble

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  • L Lorant2

    Hello,

    This is my second Yamaha DT125X, the previous one I sold was because it had slightly bent fork stanchions, I upgraded to a DRZ400 but I didn't like it's cruising speed so I bought another DTX which is really in good shape.

    This DT had original exhaust on it so at first there wasn't any wobble as the accelereation was much slower and top speed also.

    Now I have full giannelli, snorkel removed, upjetted, everything set up and as I shift to 6. gear I have the wobble again, so from 110 km/h and up.

    What I did so far:
    -Rebuilt front forks (this time not replacing bushings, on the previus DT I did but it was like even worse) with 10W oil, new fork and dust seal.
    -Disassembled steering bearing and regreasing it, set it up so it is not loose and not binding.
    Fork yokes are straight, fork stanchions are moving evenly free in yokes and wheel axle is free moving across the two fork legs.
    -After installing front wheel, bouncing the bike a few times before tightening the two fork leg screws.
    -Moving up forks like 1cm in the yokes.
    -New Michelin Pilot Street Radial, static balanced it, and before installing the new tyre, I got the wheel balanced (by the spokes I mean, no runout at all)
    -Tried increasing front spring preload by adding 9mm machined spacer on top of the stock 3mm one. (Between the spring and the top fork "screw")
    -Setting rear sag (1/3 of the travel, I don't remember exact numbers now but it is set properly)

    I am 160 CM and 55 KG if it means anything. I found the front forks too soft at first but now with the spacer I feel it is enough.

    The wobble goes away as I step off the gas, and it is almost totally fine on good road surface and no wind. If I have cross wind and pretty big bumps, it is pretty scary.

    I don't have any other ideas what could I try, perhaps I should install later a DRZ front complete or so?

    Thanks in advance.

    declanD Offline
    declanD Offline
    declan
    wrote on last edited by
    #2

    @lorant2 can you post a picture of the bike

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • L Lorant2

      Hello,

      This is my second Yamaha DT125X, the previous one I sold was because it had slightly bent fork stanchions, I upgraded to a DRZ400 but I didn't like it's cruising speed so I bought another DTX which is really in good shape.

      This DT had original exhaust on it so at first there wasn't any wobble as the accelereation was much slower and top speed also.

      Now I have full giannelli, snorkel removed, upjetted, everything set up and as I shift to 6. gear I have the wobble again, so from 110 km/h and up.

      What I did so far:
      -Rebuilt front forks (this time not replacing bushings, on the previus DT I did but it was like even worse) with 10W oil, new fork and dust seal.
      -Disassembled steering bearing and regreasing it, set it up so it is not loose and not binding.
      Fork yokes are straight, fork stanchions are moving evenly free in yokes and wheel axle is free moving across the two fork legs.
      -After installing front wheel, bouncing the bike a few times before tightening the two fork leg screws.
      -Moving up forks like 1cm in the yokes.
      -New Michelin Pilot Street Radial, static balanced it, and before installing the new tyre, I got the wheel balanced (by the spokes I mean, no runout at all)
      -Tried increasing front spring preload by adding 9mm machined spacer on top of the stock 3mm one. (Between the spring and the top fork "screw")
      -Setting rear sag (1/3 of the travel, I don't remember exact numbers now but it is set properly)

      I am 160 CM and 55 KG if it means anything. I found the front forks too soft at first but now with the spacer I feel it is enough.

      The wobble goes away as I step off the gas, and it is almost totally fine on good road surface and no wind. If I have cross wind and pretty big bumps, it is pretty scary.

      I don't have any other ideas what could I try, perhaps I should install later a DRZ front complete or so?

      Thanks in advance.

      S Offline
      S Offline
      SpookDog
      wrote on last edited by
      #3

      @lorant2

      How much speed and acceleration have you gotten from a new pipe? Surely it can’t be enough to cause problems that weren’t there before. Are you reaching previously unreachable speeds now?

      1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • L Offline
        L Offline
        Lorant2
        wrote on last edited by Lorant2
        #4

        Previously it was 110 kmh top speed by speedo (115 by gps). Now it is 125 by speedo and 131 by gps. That is what my previous dt could do too, but that dt was indicating more on the speedo than actual. Strange but I can live with it πŸ™‚

        The acceleration howewer is much better. I'm only thinking I am too lightweight and the front forks expand that much that free play in the forks is too much? I will upload a photo later when I'm on computer. Bike has 26.000 kms on it.

        Oh and I also tried going lower and higher tyre pressures than recommended. That also didn't change much. Stock is 1.8 bar in front and 2.0 bar rear as i recall. Tried 1.6/1.8 and going even for 2.2/2.4

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • L Offline
          L Offline
          Lorant2
          wrote on last edited by
          #5

          alt text

          CalumC declanD 2 Replies Last reply
          2
          • L Lorant2

            alt text

            CalumC Online
            CalumC Online
            Calum
            wrote on last edited by
            #6

            @lorant2 I mean, by bike is a bastardisation of several bikes all put together in a shed, and mine doesn't wobble.

            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

            D 1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • CalumC Calum

              @lorant2 I mean, by bike is a bastardisation of several bikes all put together in a shed, and mine doesn't wobble.

              D Offline
              D Offline
              DTR+NSR
              wrote on last edited by
              #7

              I'd raise the front end back up. Lowering the forks through the yokes, will make it more nimble but will make it less stable in a straight line.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • L Lorant2

                Hello,

                This is my second Yamaha DT125X, the previous one I sold was because it had slightly bent fork stanchions, I upgraded to a DRZ400 but I didn't like it's cruising speed so I bought another DTX which is really in good shape.

                This DT had original exhaust on it so at first there wasn't any wobble as the accelereation was much slower and top speed also.

                Now I have full giannelli, snorkel removed, upjetted, everything set up and as I shift to 6. gear I have the wobble again, so from 110 km/h and up.

                What I did so far:
                -Rebuilt front forks (this time not replacing bushings, on the previus DT I did but it was like even worse) with 10W oil, new fork and dust seal.
                -Disassembled steering bearing and regreasing it, set it up so it is not loose and not binding.
                Fork yokes are straight, fork stanchions are moving evenly free in yokes and wheel axle is free moving across the two fork legs.
                -After installing front wheel, bouncing the bike a few times before tightening the two fork leg screws.
                -Moving up forks like 1cm in the yokes.
                -New Michelin Pilot Street Radial, static balanced it, and before installing the new tyre, I got the wheel balanced (by the spokes I mean, no runout at all)
                -Tried increasing front spring preload by adding 9mm machined spacer on top of the stock 3mm one. (Between the spring and the top fork "screw")
                -Setting rear sag (1/3 of the travel, I don't remember exact numbers now but it is set properly)

                I am 160 CM and 55 KG if it means anything. I found the front forks too soft at first but now with the spacer I feel it is enough.

                The wobble goes away as I step off the gas, and it is almost totally fine on good road surface and no wind. If I have cross wind and pretty big bumps, it is pretty scary.

                I don't have any other ideas what could I try, perhaps I should install later a DRZ front complete or so?

                Thanks in advance.

                NINJAN Offline
                NINJAN Offline
                NINJA
                wrote on last edited by NINJA
                #8

                @lorant2 said in DT125X front fork speed wobble:

                I am 160 CM and 55 KG if it means anything. I found the front forks too soft at first but now with the spacer I feel it is enough.

                Cure = Eat more pies!!! 🀣 🀣 🀣

                Nice DTX tho!!! πŸ˜€ 😁 πŸ˜€

                SEDUCED BY THE DARK SIDE!!!

                1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • L Lorant2

                  alt text

                  declanD Offline
                  declanD Offline
                  declan
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #9

                  @lorant2 try a ride without the front mudhuard fitted and see if the wobble stops

                  NottsbikerN 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • declanD declan

                    @lorant2 try a ride without the front mudhuard fitted and see if the wobble stops

                    NottsbikerN Offline
                    NottsbikerN Offline
                    Nottsbiker
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #10

                    @declan yes I was thinking it could be caused by wind / drag etc

                    1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • L Offline
                      L Offline
                      Lorant2
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #11

                      Thank you guys for the replies πŸ™‚
                      About that pie part, well im like eating too much but it just wont grab on me or idk πŸ˜„

                      I will try basic setting in the front and removing mudguard.

                      Also one other thing, above 100 kmh if i just grab the clutch or push the handlebar the wobble starts. So I can like simulate the bad road or crosswind with this.

                      S 1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • L Lorant2

                        Thank you guys for the replies πŸ™‚
                        About that pie part, well im like eating too much but it just wont grab on me or idk πŸ˜„

                        I will try basic setting in the front and removing mudguard.

                        Also one other thing, above 100 kmh if i just grab the clutch or push the handlebar the wobble starts. So I can like simulate the bad road or crosswind with this.

                        S Offline
                        S Offline
                        SpookDog
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #12

                        @lorant2

                        Is the rear end raised?

                        L 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • S SpookDog

                          @lorant2

                          Is the rear end raised?

                          L Offline
                          L Offline
                          Lorant2
                          wrote on last edited by Lorant2
                          #13

                          @spookdog
                          No, I just decreased the spring preload a little to get 1/3 of the travel as sag. Didn't have to do much adjustment tho. No aftermarket dog bones or any other sht installed. So it is actually lower than stock. (it was 620mm between the two measurement points and now it is 600 if I recall correctly.)

                          S 1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • L Lorant2

                            @spookdog
                            No, I just decreased the spring preload a little to get 1/3 of the travel as sag. Didn't have to do much adjustment tho. No aftermarket dog bones or any other sht installed. So it is actually lower than stock. (it was 620mm between the two measurement points and now it is 600 if I recall correctly.)

                            S Offline
                            S Offline
                            SpookDog
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #14

                            @lorant2
                            Was that after the wobble started?

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