H reg Dtr
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 17:18 last edited by
Bought my dtr about 8 months ago as a spares or repairs. The original idea was just to get the bike roadworthy and use it as a daily. But after finding bodge after bodge on the bike it soon turned into a full rebuild. Bike was stripped to a bare frame. Brakes, swing arm and forks rebuilt and the frame re powdercoated. Bike sailed through its mot in feb, but was never quite happy with the engine so decided to rebuild it myself, and thats where the bikes currently at.
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 17:26 last edited by
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 17:40 last edited by
Yeah nice mate!
Can't go wrong with powdercoated frames!
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 17:51 last edited by
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 18:13 last edited by
might also explain the markings in the bore
rest of the engine came apart pretty easy
I've had the crank rebuilt and barrel rebored, and have bought all new bearings for the engine. Just in need of a intact power valve cap and temperture sender (engine has the warning light type fitted). Then can start building the engine up, when I get some spare time. Also looking at fitting road tyres to the standard dtr wheels, if anyone has any recomendations on size and make? Cheers John.
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 18:25 last edited by
I had the same issue with that sprocket nut too. Main problem was that I had already taken most of the engine apart.. Took a good couple of hours to get that thing off in one piece!
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 18:59 last edited by
Yeah unfortunately that nut is connected to the output shaft
I wouldn't want to be hitting that with a hammer and chisel personally!!
Especially as that thing is going to be rotating at some silly speeds during operation.
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Yeah unfortunately that nut is connected to the output shaft
I wouldn't want to be hitting that with a hammer and chisel personally!!
Especially as that thing is going to be rotating at some silly speeds during operation.
wrote on 22 May 2017, 19:41 last edited byYeah unfortunately that nut is connected to the output shaft
I wouldn't want to be hitting that with a hammer and chisel personally!!
Especially as that thing is going to be rotating at some silly speeds during operation.
With the nut drilled out, your only chiseling through about 1mm metal, with a nice sharp chisel it takes surprising little effort to split. Your tapping it rather than clouting it with a hammer.
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wrote on 22 May 2017, 21:16 last edited by
Oh good. I thought you were chisling it all the way through lmao. That would not have been good lol.
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Oh good. I thought you were chisling it all the way through lmao. That would not have been good lol.
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Yeah unfortunately that nut is connected to the output shaft
I wouldn't want to be hitting that with a hammer and chisel personally!!
Especially as that thing is going to be rotating at some silly speeds during operation.
With the nut drilled out, your only chiseling through about 1mm metal, with a nice sharp chisel it takes surprising little effort to split. Your tapping it rather than clouting it with a hammer.