@Strike78 I bought one of those Athena 125cc cylinder kits and was quite impressed with it. The plated bore should deliver better heat transfer into the water jacket and spare A, B and C-spec pistons are also available from Athena specifically for this kit (these literally differ 0.01mm in size to compensate for the minimal plated bore wear over time and so are worth obtaining, @calum I wonder if these are available for your 421 kit?). It eliminates the head gasket issues the DTR is prone to and you also get a brand new powervalve and all mounting hardware so it's ready to bolt on. I can't comment on the performance as I sold the bike shortly after building the engine (which also included a Zeeltronic installation) but the new owner seems very happy with it. Roughly the same cost as repairing a stock cylinder as you say but you do need to factor in getting one or two spare Athena gasket sets and I'd also be ordering B and C pistons (I think it's supplied with an A piston but do check this) as the fact Athena supply these shows they've really thought about the implications of a plated bore. This is something you need if you want to take the performance of any two-stroke beyond a certain level; you can port the stock cylinder all you want (some of the guys in Portugal even make their own exhaust sub-ports in stock DTR cylinders) but if you can't physically remove the heat from the cylinder, it will just keep blowing up. This is why all modern MX bikes and bikes like the Suxuki RGV250 and Kawasaki KR1-S (both around 60bhp stock) have plated bores. Also the 2MA parallel twin TZR250 (50bhp) was OK with steel liners but the Japan-only 2XT version (an attempt to bring the TZR250 up to RGV/KR1-S levels) had plated bores.

@Calum said: These were almost a nightmare to source 16 years ago, I can't imagine trying to source one now. My bike was stolen in 2010 and they smashed my headlight, the only one I could find at the time at one of the lugs snapped off. Looks like there is one for sale on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/117220896053?_skw=DT125re+headlight&itmmeta=01KTM8B5217RAZTYS7W99928FR&hash=item1b4ae8ed35:g:y7gAAeSwpAdqHbG7&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA0GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBZmLIU--K9J71U9lN1jJvKGElmcMKBjUzhn5JV3gvFr%2BI2mNwns0SlbUycS%2Bw9y3Qsk%2FC9Cp56dPrHcSEz%2FAr0Zq5el9BEEdpE--23lnRC8fU0%2Fsn13ryM871mf1jmM1dUjkmiSvaLNgJjb67pd3KfdVjuND8nPx720y4ajz9BPqgS8GUW%2FCNLpWF1MTDMkYcIXC7cHLcpOan7woIP1A2k2vjESEOPdlk4W2oy4yUcxyO%2BXWy347GqH%2BHrWnu%2F2Og%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5bRrIjVZw Looks like there are some copies on eBay as well: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/188014865985?_skw=DT125re+headlight&itmmeta=01KTM8B521KCQCFP6HVFB9B97Z&hash=item2bc68f2e41:g:v4oAAeSwOt5pf0Q6&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA8GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xBGAd3jIpQ1I%2FPeoct0WRAbZx%2BSpsbDaUmQIjZgqRPgUJo7nG5bGWKGBRZtJJ4k6kWqRTJdLi2QjCbWA%2FBE6jgcnSjbxqmpxc5alD7AkePHPryhwNx3wJMQx9Nn2c%2FJBb%2FaX0A7Z%2BlEzJ6pVoqrlh3sZUh2UZ%2BqkVZwe2vBfwA2F39HuV9O1D2z%2FSIMHbNWWFAOiiE%2BG%2F8xlRqkrAHFOwt3oKAIwYBpeHVG82hZBHdODyJwGkKG5Ef9gkphJk0fgSnlvoW%2FpV6wkCrHIDEqggbFJ3LfV5W5qwYpTWvJNjb1RA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR5bRrIjVZw Thanks for helping and sorry to hear about the theft/ damage. I had a different bike stolen around the same time period and wasn’t so fortunate with them burning it 2 doors down in a wheel barrow - I can only assume the chain & locks were giving them trouble. I purchased the unit from the first link as it’s stock and doesn’t look in too bad shape - I’ll hopefully be able to do some sort of refurb with the damaged unit I have right now and keep it as a spare now knowing their scarcity. Thank again! - one step closer to getting her back on the road.

I would say so. Is quite similar to the factory headlight, but it gives the modern look I was looking for, with a cleaner and whiter light.

@hotshot-iii hey, before assembly i adjusted the float height to 16-16.5mm according to the maintenance manual. I went through all ignition related cables and switches but nothing out of the ordinary. No corrosion etc... Also installed a genuine replacement coil and measured the primary and secondary winding just to be sure haha. The plug chop was done at 10k rpm. Did it a lot with mopeds to check if the main jetting was right. Today it was less hesitant to pull through so it went better when i just gave it full throttle from the go. This was after i finished the idle configuration with the screws. Steady +-1.6k rpm like the manual says and the air mixture screw is just about right. Temperature is very stable +-70 degrees celcius and its stay like that after driving almost an hour long. Im suspecting 2 things that are happening, correct me if im wrong haha. 1st thing is my powervalve that is opening a little bit to slow, i feel if they once open up, i can hear it and feel it and i can give them beans without any problem. Tohe other thing is maybe im running too rich in the lower rpms?

@BalnAndCantGetUp Update! The site was legit i was just overthinking it I fitted on my bike about a week ago and i did my first ride after 4 hole months yesterday. Needless to say it is a trustworthy site

@fishy-fish I'll put money it's that then.

Motul motocool expert (yellow) and Aisin coolant for motorcycles (blue) I prefer Motul because it's the best I tried,has the least fluctuations in the temp during usage.A little expensive 10 euros per liter.Normal riding city or cruising 65-75c temp,on the high side 87-90c when going up the mountain through steep bad fire roads. Second one is the Aisin,similar performance, normal riding city or cruising 65-79c and up to 95c on the fire roads.5L for 21 euros. All these on Greek hot summer evenings,34-38c. Currently filled with Aisin because I had 3 liters left and doing some work on the bike.

But what you're talking about is replacing the whole ignition system, flywheel, pick up, stator and CDI because you don't want to have your RE/X crank rebuilt. Which PJME do for £40 https://www.pjme.co.uk/acatalog/Yamaha-DT125R-DT125-R-Crank-Rebuild-4121.html#SID=1170 That doesn't make any sense

@HOTSHOT-III yes you are right 25 mm is for the top, the bottom damper Bolt requires 62 mm, i used a new Copper washer but not loctite since Yamaha manual does not mention it

I’ve been told Facebook is a good place. Failing that try eBay. I imagine they are the same as Dtr or dtre peg brackets. People charge between £20- £30+ from what I’ve seen…

@Waggstar What model & year bike do you have? There’s a DTX carb body for sale on fleabay for £50 (I think) if you have a dtr they can be year sensitive… Even if you have fucked up removing the air screw there are places out there that will drill out and rethread your original carb body for under £50. It depends what damage you’ve done to the threads. The brass screw can be removed even if you’ve destroyed the flathead screwdriver slot… It’s all comparative… I had a slot that stripped, I just drilled it 3mm deep with a 3mm drill bit and tapped a sharp cross head screwdriver into it. Heated it with a gas torch and it came out easy…

@yessir05 email them directly, they're pretty helpful https://www.zeeltronic.com/page/contact.php

@spookdog here new video.. https://streamable.com/iebafj

@ninja Yeah the bottom. Yoke may differ as fhe head light brackets fasten to the yoke. I am sure it will fit, but you may find you have problems mounting the head light.

@Darty The previous owner of my bike put 120 front, 130 rear -70-17s on and I’ve pretty much hit the edge of the rear. Is the 140 rosso 2 much harder?

@LaNoire pretty sure the swingarm is from a 1991. The 89’s I don’t think carry the same 3SP stamp on them but still use the same hardware. Although I think the chain slider is a slightly different design as the 89 has square edges

Honestly it's total codswallop that they are restrictions. They're supposed to add power. To be honest you won't notice any difference removing them. I've tried it it plenty of times. Both my DTS are 200cc now. I know It feels Like a quick easy "tune" to make you feel like you've added power. But invest in porting, bigger carb, better exhaust. Even cut the lid off your airbox and jet accordingly helps, and adds a nice noise Fit the 3MB head if you haven't already. Still didn't make much difference when I had a 125r engine. Take it even further and get a zeeltronic CDI Don't forget the Reedswitch! You might be lucky and have the CDI without the low rev limiter like i did, I think its a 3rm-20 Which is plug in and play on late dt125r