Oh interesting. Seems like its a collaboration with Italkit. No good for a road going machine. You won't be able to run any lights etc. I'd recommend grabbing a lithium battery to go alongside this. I don't think the ignition timing is reprogrammable and it has a fixed static angle. So it terms of flexibility, from the limited information I read, it seems very limited. Great for race applications where you are basically open or closed throttle, but I'd steer clear for road use. Ignitech or Zeeltronic ignition systems for the win for a road going setup.

Use Yamabond to seal the crankcase halves. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/283564713529?chn=ps&_ul=GB&google_free_listing_action=view_item

@Challenger very nice build, may I ask which wheels these are and what size they are. I presume they also fit the dt125r swingarm and forks?

Thank you very mutch, i will be looking for one of the Athena ones. I have managed to get hold of a 3bm head but it is badly damaged on the inside so i will send it back and switch it for a Athena head.

@glynn6500 oohh, yeah very hard to source. @scrimsmustang is a bit of a legend for finding things as well as @oldman IIRC. Your best bet is CMSNL from what others have said they are Wizards!

@glynn6500 said in Dt125r 1990 raspberry red: Re: 1988 rebuild update Hi there where did you find the Silver seat cover as I’m trying to find an original cover as the aftermarket covers are crap they don’t cut them the right way for stretching around the curve in the seat. Started rebuild mine back in 2017 complete strip and rebuild everything and replace every nut bolt washer was missing the head so the Conrad was seized solid It had been sat outside for 20 years so you can imagine what it was like.regards Glynn

@detsinomistaja He also could modify them YPVS flanges to work with boost ports.

@Calum Thank you saved me some time looking around as I bought a dt and within less than 3 days it blew up and needed a top end rebuild and also the electrics and the water pump needed redoing hence why I wanted the '94' manual

@Calum I think it was a false alarm, I went out to the garage today and it's cleared up

Ok, thank you very much for the help. I am going to try some things. And pressing out the steering stem is a good idea, because the dt stem is 30 and the Husqvarna 25 so i can just mill the 30 mm stem to 25 and press it in. Thank alot.

My Dad did this on his VW Split Screen van so that all the doors used the same keys. He just spent the time and recoded the barrels on the lock that matched the genuine key. You'd need to be familiar with how locks work etc, but if the the barrel is dismantleable, or you can find a barrel which fits, then it should be possible.

@Stensar Doubtful as he hasn't been online for 6 years.

Hi all. is there any way to find out my engine year as it says 3py-001. at 1st can't find anywhere to check engine numbers and make of it.

Whoa. Yes, it's a good thing we didn't ordered the wrong parts for my bike. So you're saying i should check the carb?

I am led to believe that the WR125X wheels are Saxxes wheels, not Excel like they were on the DTX. That said, I thought they do fit, but you need the DTX setup etc, so the front brake, forks and spacers. It's not a direct swap for the DTR setup, but it is a very simple swap.

You know thats not a bad idea i made up some gaskets that held and some stuff for a workbench and some pc feet that still hold up cant remember the name of tht printing material but had a nice spongy bounce wonder how well it would take up with the seasons though outside. What came to mind was one of them old girvin flex stem elastimers we used to have in the 90s on our mtbs but bet you cant source them either nowadays just hoping I dont ruin the bushes n stuff when I remove it still in two minds to do the front tyre and get tht mot n prey he dont notice it not as if im going to be doing jumps off road on it now theres nowhere left to ride round here. You got me thinking now though if I can stretch the spring enough and tht printing stuff holds enough for me to slip a rubber printed collar around the shaft happy days. Your more than welcome to come and help me though bro just been reading them blog posts about couple of them builds tht RS n Yamito you got some mad skills n patience would love to restore one of mine and rebuild the engines properly i'm to impatient to rebuild the cvt on her moped lol

I've only used Zeeltronics on all my bikes and they've been great. I'll be picking another one up for my new project in the years to come. I've heard good things about the Ignitech system @Darty swears by them.

Make sure that the air waves are cleared on your bike, you don't seemed to have mentioned this. So there is nothing nasty blocking your intake solution. A quick, dirty, way to confirm this is to just remove the airbox to carb joiner and take it for a quick run. Sounds like it's running rich, so doing this should cause the bike to lean out. If it's only for a short time it shouldn't hurt. You just want to know if it's getting air. So check the airbox and renew the filter if you find that removing the boot fixes the issue. The other common problem is water getting into the exhaust expansion chamber. So cleaning the exhaust is really vital for a two stroke. I've seen this before where a bike was sat for a long time and the exhaust was full of fluid. The bike would refuse to run if this was the case.