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DT125R FORUM

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  3. Dtr mileage

Dtr mileage

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  • P Offline
    P Offline
    PJT95
    wrote on last edited by
    #15

    Bought my bike at 22k miles. Piston went at 26k and scored barrel. It was still on original bore too.. piston swapped and going strong again, currently at 29k miles.

    CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
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    • P PJT95

      Bought my bike at 22k miles. Piston went at 26k and scored barrel. It was still on original bore too.. piston swapped and going strong again, currently at 29k miles.

      CalumC Offline
      CalumC Offline
      Calum
      wrote on last edited by
      #16

      @pjt95 Yeah...but it's not going to be making full power. And it won't last that long if the barrel is scored. And I don't know about you, but the last thing I want is the engine seizing whilst I'm doing 70mph...

      Always Originate, Never Pirate!

      declanD 1 Reply Last reply
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      • CalumC Calum

        @pjt95 Yeah...but it's not going to be making full power. And it won't last that long if the barrel is scored. And I don't know about you, but the last thing I want is the engine seizing whilst I'm doing 70mph...

        declanD Offline
        declanD Offline
        declan
        wrote on last edited by
        #17

        @calum straight line ain’t too bad but on a corner is a death wish

        CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
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        • declanD declan

          @calum straight line ain’t too bad but on a corner is a death wish

          CalumC Offline
          CalumC Offline
          Calum
          wrote on last edited by
          #18

          @declan Although he was coming off a corner, it seized on a straight.

          https://youtu.be/g5_A5oi7wC0?t=34s

          I just don't think it's worth the risk. If the bike isn't tip top, don't ride it.

          Always Originate, Never Pirate!

          declanD 1 Reply Last reply
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          • CalumC Calum

            @declan Although he was coming off a corner, it seized on a straight.

            https://youtu.be/g5_A5oi7wC0?t=34s

            I just don't think it's worth the risk. If the bike isn't tip top, don't ride it.

            declanD Offline
            declanD Offline
            declan
            wrote on last edited by
            #19

            @calum personally I wouldn’t run a bike with a screwed up top end unless I don’t mind losing it

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            • P Offline
              P Offline
              PJT95
              wrote on last edited by
              #20

              It was scored, I wasn't aware it was original piston until it went. I got it rebored and skimmed by Fahron Engineering so I'd say its in good shape now. Now I know how many miles this piston/ring and bore have done, I'll definitely be replacing rings when the time comes.

              Mine seized on the way home from work on coming off an island doing 35-40mph, it deffo scared me.

              declanD 1 Reply Last reply
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              • P PJT95

                It was scored, I wasn't aware it was original piston until it went. I got it rebored and skimmed by Fahron Engineering so I'd say its in good shape now. Now I know how many miles this piston/ring and bore have done, I'll definitely be replacing rings when the time comes.

                Mine seized on the way home from work on coming off an island doing 35-40mph, it deffo scared me.

                declanD Offline
                declanD Offline
                declan
                wrote on last edited by
                #21

                @pjt95 can’t imagine it’s very fun was the crank okay?

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                • P Offline
                  P Offline
                  PJT95
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #22

                  Crank and bearing looked/felt fine, never bothered to split it and take a proper look though. Not sure why it went, whether it was due to age ect. Although the wrist pin and small end bearing were VERY worn. It took a right big chunk out of the piston and most of it went out of the exhaust port.

                  Since I had the top end sorted it has been running like a dream.

                  CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
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                  • P PJT95

                    Crank and bearing looked/felt fine, never bothered to split it and take a proper look though. Not sure why it went, whether it was due to age ect. Although the wrist pin and small end bearing were VERY worn. It took a right big chunk out of the piston and most of it went out of the exhaust port.

                    Since I had the top end sorted it has been running like a dream.

                    CalumC Offline
                    CalumC Offline
                    Calum
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #23

                    @pjt95 Ah ryt, you did get it rebored then. That's good news.

                    Rule of thumb, these engines, 30K on the bottom end. I'd say that's really when you should consider pulling the motor for a rebuild.

                    Now then can and will do more than that, it's just it is cheaper to rebuild the engine, than it is to replace the crank cases. So well worth doing before it goes.

                    The key thing is, sound. It should start to knock at idle. But when you do a ring change, just check the tolerances. There is no need to split the cases to check these things so that's a moot point.

                    Regardless of miles, you should always check the bottom end. Since the top end is reliant on the bottom end. Always worth replacing if in doubt.

                    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                    Irongamer727I 1 Reply Last reply
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                    • CalumC Calum

                      @pjt95 Ah ryt, you did get it rebored then. That's good news.

                      Rule of thumb, these engines, 30K on the bottom end. I'd say that's really when you should consider pulling the motor for a rebuild.

                      Now then can and will do more than that, it's just it is cheaper to rebuild the engine, than it is to replace the crank cases. So well worth doing before it goes.

                      The key thing is, sound. It should start to knock at idle. But when you do a ring change, just check the tolerances. There is no need to split the cases to check these things so that's a moot point.

                      Regardless of miles, you should always check the bottom end. Since the top end is reliant on the bottom end. Always worth replacing if in doubt.

                      Irongamer727I Offline
                      Irongamer727I Offline
                      Irongamer727
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #24

                      @calum 30 000 Miles? 50 000 km?

                      1 Reply Last reply
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                      • O Offline
                        O Offline
                        oldman
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #25

                        My red 88 was at 30k miles when I replaced the speedo for new a few years ago

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                        • J Offline
                          J Offline
                          Jens Eskildsen
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #26

                          Bottem end lasts for ages on theese things.

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