Options, Options, Options but which ones the best?
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@Nottsbiker yes it does, it’s what the Belgarda boys where telling me as I had asked if they where using that motor whey they’d never used the 3XP. Also update
I now have a full 4FU. valve head and barrel.
I still have the P but that’ll get sold to fund the 4FU. Unfortunately the guy with the 170 never got back to me so I set my self a challenge of finding a 4FU valve in under a day by the evening.Looking forward to the day I run it and it seizes, nicasil liners and the extra rebuild cost is what initially stopped me going anywhere near I kmx and now here I am
Do you think I’ll sacrifice much reliability with the 4FU?@Stevie-Wonder maybe, I really don't like nikasil i appreciate it but it's not something is want to run
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Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
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@Calum sure but in the event of damage usually it means it's screwed and it's pricier to replace obviously it's better but like I said it's not for me
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@declan Why would it get damaged? In the ten years I've been riding, I have never once damaged my DTR engine...
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Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
@Calum said in Options, Options, Options but which ones the best?:
Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
Okay that makes a lot of sense. When you put aside the fact a seize or something could cost you very dearly on paper they actually offer a lot more quality’s. Not to mention the sound lol.
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@Calum said in Options, Options, Options but which ones the best?:
Nikasil plating is fine. There is no compromise in reliability? Why would there be?
The tolerances can be made tighter. There is greater heat transfer between the engine and the coolant, meaning you can push the engine harder for longer.
Okay that makes a lot of sense. When you put aside the fact a seize or something could cost you very dearly on paper they actually offer a lot more quality’s. Not to mention the sound lol.
@Stevie-Wonder it's not that much more expensive is it?
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Nikasil is actually harder than a traditional cast iron sleeve.
For road use and clean induction, it’s incredibly durable.
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The only time I've had a DT-R engine go wrong is when I neglected the piston and ran it for too long. The worn piston tried to leave via the exhaust port and made a right old mess as it got caught up.
Even though the bike had done some decent mileage when I took the top end off the piston was still the original one. To make good the damage I had to go 2mm oversize and run a pattern piston just to get some life out of the cylinder.
Moral of the story is that if looked after the engines take a lot of use and should always be rebuilt with genuine / high quality parts when maintenance is required.
I've had 3 RD125lc's when I was younger and poor so have learnt the hard way that cheap piston kits might only cost half what Yamaha charge but only last a quarter of the time
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@declan depending on wether or not it has to be welded I was getting quotes of £120-160. Some places won’t touch heads either which is a right pain in the ass of you just want to send your top end to be made fresh. Also got told of a £15 charge per bolt left in the cylinder at some places too.. ouch. Also in consideration to how a 3MB or 3BN cylinder only cost £30-40 for a rebore and a decent piston price difference in piston could pay for another rebore in the future
@Darty interesting, not what I expected at all. Denser material with better thermal conductive properties right?
@Calum its actually refreshing to hear of horror story like that, I don’t think I’ve ever seen a 4FU cylinder that didn’t look like some tried to take a bite out of bore or took a Bowie knife and dragged it down from the exhaust port. Same for KMX’s. I think that’s where my fear of Nickasil comes from, KMX’s. I’ve never really known much about it but years ago when the idea of owning a two stroke 125 first came to fruition I was discovering all different bikes made and how one of the things that made the kmx unique was their barrels but that was followed by just as many comments about how costly they are to replace and how if something went bad it’s less likely to be fixed. I’ve never been a Kawasaki fan but KMX’s in comparison to all its competitors bikes are so much more common here and are always lower priced but hearing that at the time really was a big no no. In my defence though I was your cliche four stroke 125 rider with no previous knowledge or experience of two strokes, just the thoughts they go bang every 2 weeks and never work.
@Nottsbiker my own experiences and the people I’ve spoken to really are a testament to Yamaha. They take a pounding really. I’ve thrown mine around tracks with ktm’s all day and it didn’t miss a beat. No fouled plugs or niggly issues nothing all whilst having the enjoyment of starting first kick and having a lovely ride home with a few feel good wheelies all to be put away and be repeated again or used to pop to the shops. It makes owning a two stroke a lot more fun when you’re not fixing it 24/7.
Ouch, bet it was a laugh when it happened though, you can definitely say you “sent it”... quite literally out the exhaust haha for that reason unless I find it mandatory to do the entire top end at once, take no chances. With no idea at what’s been serviced at want intervals even more reason not to take chances, I want peace of mind and be able to use the miles I’ve covered as an indicator of probable issues later on should I find any
I agree, I won’t ever spend more money then I have to but I’ll never cheap out. I have this theory / analogy that it’s like jeans, go to primark and get a pair for a tenner and they fit okay but they’re not perfect, they lose shape after a few washes and could rip or tear from an aggressively propelled fart. You buy a pair of Levi’s, they have a fit that’s perfect for you and they’re durable. For one pair of Levi’s you’d outlive 5-6 pairs of cheap ones in the process spending the same amount of money in the process. The same applies and at similar prices too anyway enough with the top shopping tips and what I wear on my legs...
I won’t ever leave myself short to buy OEM, better on par based on what’s available. With that being said an OEM 4FU piston is only £68. Hardly much to complain about.
I’ve always been curious about the rd125lc’s I love the story’s from the boys back and the day and because they’re becoming every bit as sought after (and stupidly expensive) as their 350 big brothers
also for anyone that’s interested I have decided I am going to sell the ‘P’ setup to fund my curiosity with the 4FU setup and your golden advice. Also using my brain, I really can’t expect or imagine feeling much difference if any given the fact my bikes already full power running a near identical setup. I dropped tuning works a message for the barrel and am going to have a chat about porting options etc. Would really love mick to tune a barrel for me one day, with Stan Stephens retired, I’d be gutted if he retired too and missed out on that bit of history.
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Yes I'd like to go down the Mick Abby (sp?) route as well but also get him to build a pipe to match the tune along with a new matching ignition set up.
For me the main aim is always to have s bike that runs right with nice healthy mid range power rather than completely all up in the very top end of the rev range.
