So Close!...
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Best colour yet, ever! This is with the needle in the middle slot, also with the airscrew turned out 3 full turns. That is fully open when you look into the air jet!...
Below:
This is the plug that’s been brought up to full temp on tickover only, remember that this is with the airscrew wound full out...
Wet n black! I don’t know why the standard 0.225 pilot jet is too rich on my particular bike, but it is. I have a 0.20 Mikuni jet I’m gonna try tomorrow. Wish me luck
️Found another potential yesterday, the long breather pipe that hangs down on the kickstart side leads to a hole at the top of the ‘tube’ that the needle jet fits into. (I guess it’s to let the fuel level go up and down inside the jet, equalising the pressure, maybe? Fluid won’t rise in a closed environment, like an upside down cup in water) where the slide housing joins there is potential for mischief. My gasket is so compressed I have to use sealant. I’ve tried hermatite red and silicon. The silicon was kinda vulcanised by the fuel at the bottom of the slide where the breather pipe join is. So I’m going with the red but I’ve had so many inconsistencies I really want a new gasket. Anyone know of?...
I think the vent has been causing some of the mid throttle bogging and inconsistency... -
Found another potential yesterday, the long breather pipe that hangs down on the kickstart side leads to a hole at the top of the ‘tube’ that the needle jet fits into. (I guess it’s to let the fuel level go up and down inside the jet, equalising the pressure, maybe? Fluid won’t rise in a closed environment, like an upside down cup in water) where the slide housing joins there is potential for mischief. My gasket is so compressed I have to use sealant. I’ve tried hermatite red and silicon. The silicon was kinda vulcanised by the fuel at the bottom of the slide where the breather pipe join is. So I’m going with the red but I’ve had so many inconsistencies I really want a new gasket. Anyone know of?...
I think the vent has been causing some of the mid throttle bogging and inconsistency...Went down to a .20 pilot and it still ran wet plug with the airscrew fully out! Since put in a 17.5 and it ticks over well, the plug is still slightly black but not dripping wet at 1.5 turns...
The proof will be in a test ride though...
I’m using this thread as a memory diary, if I don’t write it down I forget!
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Went down to a .20 pilot and it still ran wet plug with the airscrew fully out! Since put in a 17.5 and it ticks over well, the plug is still slightly black but not dripping wet at 1.5 turns...
The proof will be in a test ride though...
I’m using this thread as a memory diary, if I don’t write it down I forget!
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It’s running good on the 17.5 pilot at 1/4 turn out of the airscrew. Did a 70 mile test ride with loads of slow running, plug is dry, at last!! 🤪
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@spookdog my dt runs SUPER hot. 90 degrees c. I think it's when the thermostat opens as it then drops to 79/80.
I run ecans waterless coolant which will make it run a tad hotter
@calum
I’m not sure why you think that is super hot bud, 90* is perfect running temp I think. If it’s doing it while under load at high revs is even better! You’re running 200 twin radiators aren’t you?I’ve managed to reign mine in a bit. I put another radiator on it that I managed to finesse back into usefulness. I straightened some fins and removed the outer edge of the worse with a Dremel type tool.
My old radiator had so many fins folded over on the inner side that it wasn’t funny! Why the inside gets the brunt of it I don’t know. I’d of thought that it would be the outer ‘wind in’ side that caught it?... -
@calum
I’m not sure why you think that is super hot bud, 90* is perfect running temp I think. If it’s doing it while under load at high revs is even better! You’re running 200 twin radiators aren’t you?I’ve managed to reign mine in a bit. I put another radiator on it that I managed to finesse back into usefulness. I straightened some fins and removed the outer edge of the worse with a Dremel type tool.
My old radiator had so many fins folded over on the inner side that it wasn’t funny! Why the inside gets the brunt of it I don’t know. I’d of thought that it would be the outer ‘wind in’ side that caught it?...@spookdog It went mental on Sunday 100 degrees centigrade under very light riding. I came to a stop at the traffic lights and the engine just started to rev it's nuts off on its own. I killed the engine (nothing) turned the ignition switch off nothing. Had to kill the fuel in the end.
So yeah, it just seems to run WAY too hot that it's igniting on its own
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@spookdog It went mental on Sunday 100 degrees centigrade under very light riding. I came to a stop at the traffic lights and the engine just started to rev it's nuts off on its own. I killed the engine (nothing) turned the ignition switch off nothing. Had to kill the fuel in the end.
So yeah, it just seems to run WAY too hot that it's igniting on its own
Since I’ve had the ‘new’ radiator on I’ve had a lot better temps during the hot days recently. I’ve swapped out the standard tailpipe for a BigOne that’s been laying around, this seems to be beneficial as well. It seems to be running even cooler. Not sure why...
The plugs been dry since I fitted the 17.5 pilot jet, the midrange seems good as well going by the plug. Top end/main jet is still buggered. The last two times I snapped the throttle open fully I had heatseize symptoms. Both times I whipped the clutch in and coasted to a stop, both times it started up straight away. I haven’t been in a position to recreate the symptoms to see if it was a genuine heat seazure (sp?) or a totall bogout due to main jet being wrong. It’s a 210 ATM, it was a 180 before...
Problem on top of problem after problem being an invisible problem 🤯
Oh well it’s all in fun and we live and learn while the World falls apart around us!
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Since I’ve had the ‘new’ radiator on I’ve had a lot better temps during the hot days recently. I’ve swapped out the standard tailpipe for a BigOne that’s been laying around, this seems to be beneficial as well. It seems to be running even cooler. Not sure why...
The plugs been dry since I fitted the 17.5 pilot jet, the midrange seems good as well going by the plug. Top end/main jet is still buggered. The last two times I snapped the throttle open fully I had heatseize symptoms. Both times I whipped the clutch in and coasted to a stop, both times it started up straight away. I haven’t been in a position to recreate the symptoms to see if it was a genuine heat seazure (sp?) or a totall bogout due to main jet being wrong. It’s a 210 ATM, it was a 180 before...
Problem on top of problem after problem being an invisible problem 🤯
Oh well it’s all in fun and we live and learn while the World falls apart around us!
Turns out it was heat seazures. 4 point seazure marks on piston, 1 bad enough to have ‘the look’ of sliding metal. More eating away of the piston crown and scoring to the barrel 🤨 it all happened before I changed the radiator. Oh well! We live and turn 🤪
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Turns out it was heat seazures. 4 point seazure marks on piston, 1 bad enough to have ‘the look’ of sliding metal. More eating away of the piston crown and scoring to the barrel 🤨 it all happened before I changed the radiator. Oh well! We live and turn 🤪
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@calum
Pics to come when I fix phone!Has anyone had dealings with Athena gaskets that are 3 layers fixed together with 2 brass rivets?...
Anyone? The outer 2 are black with the usual coating, while the centre 1 is silver...
@Dtr&nsr
It’s definitely heat caused, mostly my own ignorance
I understand that mixture being lean can run too hot, but it wasn’t solely that. There was even plenty of oil in the barrel and around the crank. Although it is a bit sooty and scorched!...@Everyone
I have problems with my temp gauge, normal running temp is showing at 5mm above the C (for Cold) and any variation above doesn’t really show very much. It was below the halfway mark when the head gasket blew!!
The old radiator was a lot less efficient at dumping heat than the new one, it was OK when the ambient temp was not ‘heatwave hot’. The new one throws away BTU’s nicely.
Ideally I’d like to adjust the temp gauge with a resistor or something, so as that ‘normal’ temp is in the middle of the gauge... -
@calum
Pics to come when I fix phone!Has anyone had dealings with Athena gaskets that are 3 layers fixed together with 2 brass rivets?...
Anyone? The outer 2 are black with the usual coating, while the centre 1 is silver...
@Dtr&nsr
It’s definitely heat caused, mostly my own ignorance
I understand that mixture being lean can run too hot, but it wasn’t solely that. There was even plenty of oil in the barrel and around the crank. Although it is a bit sooty and scorched!...@Everyone
I have problems with my temp gauge, normal running temp is showing at 5mm above the C (for Cold) and any variation above doesn’t really show very much. It was below the halfway mark when the head gasket blew!!
The old radiator was a lot less efficient at dumping heat than the new one, it was OK when the ambient temp was not ‘heatwave hot’. The new one throws away BTU’s nicely.
Ideally I’d like to adjust the temp gauge with a resistor or something, so as that ‘normal’ temp is in the middle of the gauge...@spookdog @spookdog a heat seizure is caused by the piston expanding to much/fast. From a lean mixture burning to hot. The piston basically becomes to big for the bore it's running in, and seizes. The fuel in a richer mixture actually takes heat from the piston crown. Lean mixture is backed up by the detonation you've seen on your piston.
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@spookdog @spookdog a heat seizure is caused by the piston expanding to much/fast. From a lean mixture burning to hot. The piston basically becomes to big for the bore it's running in, and seizes. The fuel in a richer mixture actually takes heat from the piston crown. Lean mixture is backed up by the detonation you've seen on your piston.
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No one used this kinda gasket?
Given my experiences recently I’m wary of fitting it even though it’s new & Athena... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
@spookdog I think you are overthinking the headgasket a bit mate athena make some of the best non oem gaskets and seals
@
I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
