So Close!...
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@calum
I’m not sure why you think that is super hot bud, 90* is perfect running temp I think. If it’s doing it while under load at high revs is even better! You’re running 200 twin radiators aren’t you?I’ve managed to reign mine in a bit. I put another radiator on it that I managed to finesse back into usefulness. I straightened some fins and removed the outer edge of the worse with a Dremel type tool.
My old radiator had so many fins folded over on the inner side that it wasn’t funny! Why the inside gets the brunt of it I don’t know. I’d of thought that it would be the outer ‘wind in’ side that caught it?... -
@spookdog It went mental on Sunday 100 degrees centigrade under very light riding. I came to a stop at the traffic lights and the engine just started to rev it's nuts off on its own. I killed the engine (nothing) turned the ignition switch off nothing. Had to kill the fuel in the end.
So yeah, it just seems to run WAY too hot that it's igniting on its own
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Since I’ve had the ‘new’ radiator on I’ve had a lot better temps during the hot days recently. I’ve swapped out the standard tailpipe for a BigOne that’s been laying around, this seems to be beneficial as well. It seems to be running even cooler. Not sure why...
The plugs been dry since I fitted the 17.5 pilot jet, the midrange seems good as well going by the plug. Top end/main jet is still buggered. The last two times I snapped the throttle open fully I had heatseize symptoms. Both times I whipped the clutch in and coasted to a stop, both times it started up straight away. I haven’t been in a position to recreate the symptoms to see if it was a genuine heat seazure (sp?) or a totall bogout due to main jet being wrong. It’s a 210 ATM, it was a 180 before...
Problem on top of problem after problem being an invisible problem 🤯
Oh well it’s all in fun and we live and learn while the World falls apart around us!
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Turns out it was heat seazures. 4 point seazure marks on piston, 1 bad enough to have ‘the look’ of sliding metal. More eating away of the piston crown and scoring to the barrel 🤨 it all happened before I changed the radiator. Oh well! We live and turn 🤪
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@calum
Pics to come when I fix phone!Has anyone had dealings with Athena gaskets that are 3 layers fixed together with 2 brass rivets?...
Anyone? The outer 2 are black with the usual coating, while the centre 1 is silver...
@Dtr&nsr
It’s definitely heat caused, mostly my own ignorance
I understand that mixture being lean can run too hot, but it wasn’t solely that. There was even plenty of oil in the barrel and around the crank. Although it is a bit sooty and scorched!...@Everyone
I have problems with my temp gauge, normal running temp is showing at 5mm above the C (for Cold) and any variation above doesn’t really show very much. It was below the halfway mark when the head gasket blew!!
The old radiator was a lot less efficient at dumping heat than the new one, it was OK when the ambient temp was not ‘heatwave hot’. The new one throws away BTU’s nicely.
Ideally I’d like to adjust the temp gauge with a resistor or something, so as that ‘normal’ temp is in the middle of the gauge... -
@spookdog @spookdog a heat seizure is caused by the piston expanding to much/fast. From a lean mixture burning to hot. The piston basically becomes to big for the bore it's running in, and seizes. The fuel in a richer mixture actually takes heat from the piston crown. Lean mixture is backed up by the detonation you've seen on your piston.
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Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?