So Close!...
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@calum
Pics to come when I fix phone!Has anyone had dealings with Athena gaskets that are 3 layers fixed together with 2 brass rivets?...
Anyone? The outer 2 are black with the usual coating, while the centre 1 is silver...
@Dtr&nsr
It’s definitely heat caused, mostly my own ignorance
I understand that mixture being lean can run too hot, but it wasn’t solely that. There was even plenty of oil in the barrel and around the crank. Although it is a bit sooty and scorched!...@Everyone
I have problems with my temp gauge, normal running temp is showing at 5mm above the C (for Cold) and any variation above doesn’t really show very much. It was below the halfway mark when the head gasket blew!!
The old radiator was a lot less efficient at dumping heat than the new one, it was OK when the ambient temp was not ‘heatwave hot’. The new one throws away BTU’s nicely.
Ideally I’d like to adjust the temp gauge with a resistor or something, so as that ‘normal’ temp is in the middle of the gauge...@spookdog @spookdog a heat seizure is caused by the piston expanding to much/fast. From a lean mixture burning to hot. The piston basically becomes to big for the bore it's running in, and seizes. The fuel in a richer mixture actually takes heat from the piston crown. Lean mixture is backed up by the detonation you've seen on your piston.
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@spookdog @spookdog a heat seizure is caused by the piston expanding to much/fast. From a lean mixture burning to hot. The piston basically becomes to big for the bore it's running in, and seizes. The fuel in a richer mixture actually takes heat from the piston crown. Lean mixture is backed up by the detonation you've seen on your piston.
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No one used this kinda gasket?
Given my experiences recently I’m wary of fitting it even though it’s new & Athena... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
@spookdog I think you are overthinking the headgasket a bit mate athena make some of the best non oem gaskets and seals
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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@spookdog Same thing happens in my Starlet. If I turn the headlights on and fans on the idle drops
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I just got a 400 Kenda rear tyre. Am I going to regret it? Does the Dtr take a 400 tyre ok?
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@spookdog I've used the Loctite stuff before but its not very good, apparently Jennolite (sp?) is meant to be much better. Probably better to get blasted then paint immediately afterwards
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
