So Close!...
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Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
@spookdog I think you are overthinking the headgasket a bit mate athena make some of the best non oem gaskets and seals
wrote on 29 Aug 2021, 17:38 last edited by@
I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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@
I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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@spookdog Same thing happens in my Starlet. If I turn the headlights on and fans on the idle drops
wrote on 1 Sept 2021, 19:26 last edited byDone my first running in run. 65 miles of ‘still going’!
Fingers crossed
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I just got a 400 Kenda rear tyre. Am I going to regret it? Does the Dtr take a 400 tyre ok?
wrote on 8 Oct 2021, 13:36 last edited byAnyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
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wrote on 13 Oct 2021, 07:41 last edited by
@spookdog I've used the Loctite stuff before but its not very good, apparently Jennolite (sp?) is meant to be much better. Probably better to get blasted then paint immediately afterwards
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wrote on 14 Oct 2021, 11:50 last edited by
@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
wrote on 15 Oct 2021, 12:46 last edited by@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
wrote on 17 Oct 2021, 13:47 last edited byCheers guys!
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wrote on 17 Oct 2021, 17:05 last edited by
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
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@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
wrote on 18 Oct 2021, 14:02 last edited by Stevie Wonder@markus-w said in So Close!...:
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
Pretty sure hammerite also do a gel rust converter, simply apply, let it’s do it’s thing then get to going at it with some good old fashion elbow grease. £15 I think (bit pricey) perfectly safe on paint and being the fact it’s a gel it’s rather ideal for leaving on in those hard to reach areas and fiddly bits
Also @Nottsbiker jheez. strong stuff then, I’m surprised it’s sold so freely over the counter if that’s the case
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@markus-w said in So Close!...:
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
Pretty sure hammerite also do a gel rust converter, simply apply, let it’s do it’s thing then get to going at it with some good old fashion elbow grease. £15 I think (bit pricey) perfectly safe on paint and being the fact it’s a gel it’s rather ideal for leaving on in those hard to reach areas and fiddly bits
Also @Nottsbiker jheez. strong stuff then, I’m surprised it’s sold so freely over the counter if that’s the case
wrote on 20 Oct 2021, 07:37 last edited by@stevie-wonder its good for the price, you just have to be careful and only use it on the right parts
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@stevie-wonder its good for the price, you just have to be careful and only use it on the right parts
wrote on 14 Mar 2022, 16:48 last edited byI had a good score recently, I got a 3mb barrel with a perfectly good piston in it that has 3mb embossed on the inside skirt, so I’m guessing it’s original? It also has the power valve, pulley & cover/housing as well as the cables with a 3wire servo connected!! (Rubber cover pristine) all still fitted. Also there is a perfect 3mb head
£130 off of fleabay! Of all places...The point is, I was warming it up to remove the temp sensor and I realised it doesn’t have 3mb stamped on it. Looked closer and the head and barrel are P stamped. Someone told me about this before but I can’t remember the details. I think it was originally a TZR top end? Did they come with servo fitted?
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I had a good score recently, I got a 3mb barrel with a perfectly good piston in it that has 3mb embossed on the inside skirt, so I’m guessing it’s original? It also has the power valve, pulley & cover/housing as well as the cables with a 3wire servo connected!! (Rubber cover pristine) all still fitted. Also there is a perfect 3mb head
£130 off of fleabay! Of all places...The point is, I was warming it up to remove the temp sensor and I realised it doesn’t have 3mb stamped on it. Looked closer and the head and barrel are P stamped. Someone told me about this before but I can’t remember the details. I think it was originally a TZR top end? Did they come with servo fitted?
wrote on 14 Mar 2022, 18:43 last edited by@SpookDog 4DL Series 1 TZR125RR, cast in Italy by polini/minarelli (the italian cast 3mb barrels are a much worse quality in terms of the quality of the cast). The 4DL heads are blank on top with nothing but a P stamp on the side. The original 4DL power valves are the same as the DTR however the powervalve housing has a motor minarelli stamp on the cover that’s both original and unique to the 4DL Series 1. It’s also a nice metallic grey colour too.
Fun fact when I sold my TZR P top end I nicked the cover off it and sold it without just for that reason, makes not a sods worth of difference but oh well
