So Close!...
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No one used this kinda gasket?
Given my experiences recently I’m wary of fitting it even though it’s new & Athena... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
Took me a while but I got a rebore and new piston. Almost got it back together.
I ended up getting another gasket, single layer usual thing. I just didn’t trust the triple ply one held together with brass rivets! A single bit of crap between one of the layers would be fatal. Theyre fairly loose but uncleanable on the 4 inner surfaces!...
I’d love to know why Athena makes it... -
@spookdog I think you are overthinking the headgasket a bit mate athena make some of the best non oem gaskets and seals
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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@spookdog Same thing happens in my Starlet. If I turn the headlights on and fans on the idle drops
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I just got a 400 Kenda rear tyre. Am I going to regret it? Does the Dtr take a 400 tyre ok?
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@spookdog I've used the Loctite stuff before but its not very good, apparently Jennolite (sp?) is meant to be much better. Probably better to get blasted then paint immediately afterwards
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
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@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
@markus-w said in So Close!...:
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
Pretty sure hammerite also do a gel rust converter, simply apply, let it’s do it’s thing then get to going at it with some good old fashion elbow grease. £15 I think (bit pricey) perfectly safe on paint and being the fact it’s a gel it’s rather ideal for leaving on in those hard to reach areas and fiddly bits
Also @Nottsbiker jheez. strong stuff then, I’m surprised it’s sold so freely over the counter if that’s the case
