So Close!...
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I know they make good gaskets, but this thing is over 3 times the thickness of a ‘normal’ one. I’d just like to know why. There must be a good reason!...Also my bike is ticking over nice and low but when I put the lights on it stumbles and dies. Any input? I have the first stator with three individual coils. 1 for charching 1 for lights and 1 for ignition. How can the lights be piggy backing the ignition?! Poor earth on the ignition side?
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@spookdog said in So Close!...:
Anyone used rust converter on exhaust downpipe?...
Use harpic x10, a few of my mates use it on their WR125’s to get all the road grim that builds up and allow the pipe to bronze a nice colour however I’ve been told it’s known to strip stainless of its stainless ability so I’d also recommend getting your hands on some ACF50
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@stevie-wonder Harpic is brutal but effective - it will mark the chrome on forks its that acidic. If you use it you must paint straight after as its bare metal which will immediately rust again
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Cheers guys!
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@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
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@markus-w said in So Close!...:
@spookdog I used Hammerite kurust on my Dep downpipe that had rusted really bad at the header. It's a brush on rust converter that transforms the rust into a stable material. It turns it black then you paint it. Done at the start of this year and all good so far. £5 from Halfords.
Pretty sure hammerite also do a gel rust converter, simply apply, let it’s do it’s thing then get to going at it with some good old fashion elbow grease. £15 I think (bit pricey) perfectly safe on paint and being the fact it’s a gel it’s rather ideal for leaving on in those hard to reach areas and fiddly bits
Also @Nottsbiker jheez. strong stuff then, I’m surprised it’s sold so freely over the counter if that’s the case
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@stevie-wonder its good for the price, you just have to be careful and only use it on the right parts
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I had a good score recently, I got a 3mb barrel with a perfectly good piston in it that has 3mb embossed on the inside skirt, so I’m guessing it’s original? It also has the power valve, pulley & cover/housing as well as the cables with a 3wire servo connected!! (Rubber cover pristine) all still fitted. Also there is a perfect 3mb head
£130 off of fleabay! Of all places...The point is, I was warming it up to remove the temp sensor and I realised it doesn’t have 3mb stamped on it. Looked closer and the head and barrel are P stamped. Someone told me about this before but I can’t remember the details. I think it was originally a TZR top end? Did they come with servo fitted?
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@SpookDog 4DL Series 1 TZR125RR, cast in Italy by polini/minarelli (the italian cast 3mb barrels are a much worse quality in terms of the quality of the cast). The 4DL heads are blank on top with nothing but a P stamp on the side. The original 4DL power valves are the same as the DTR however the powervalve housing has a motor minarelli stamp on the cover that’s both original and unique to the 4DL Series 1. It’s also a nice metallic grey colour too.
Fun fact when I sold my TZR P top end I nicked the cover off it and sold it without just for that reason, makes not a sods worth of difference but oh well
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@Stevie-Wonder The TZR 3MB00P Barrel also had a 1mm raised exhaust port timing. And the connecting rods are slightly different
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Do you mean the pulley cover, or the right foot side cap? The cap on mine is a bit mangled and sealed with silicon
it’s the only down side I can see...
Yep, the head is blank except for the P. The barrel has the P stamped in the middle of the 3mb bit...Do you mean the Conrod itself or the crank throw? (Stroke)...
Is this P stamp a good thing or a problem waiting to happen?...
