So Close!...
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I’ve ordered a second hand one for £8.00 I don’t think I can go wrong at that price…
Damn it I’ve got water in the carb again! I think it’s cause my tank is very rusty inside which massively increases surface area, add that to a cheap cap that lets air in and it gets a lot of condisation in the tank. It’s the only reason I can think of anyway. Just another upgrade job to do when I have the money and off road time to do it. Or stop running it onto reserve!
Looks like I’m going to have to get the Tzr running, which I’m going to have to half ass to start cause I don’t have the money to get the 4Fu steel liner put in @ PJME…Happy daze to all you smokers out there!
I hope you have better luck with them than I does…Stripped and cleaned the carb last night and put it back together, then the 250 main jet I ordered a while ago turned up this morning!
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Bikes running well again though without the blob of water molesting the jet…Noticed that a couple of the links on my x-ring chain have locked solid. The road salt really kills them in no time at all. Thankfully spring is real close and I have new chain and sprocket, along with new tyres to go on. Will have to put the new forks together without painting them like I wanted. Those are the licks of being a peasant tho!
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Stripped and cleaned the carb last night and put it back together, then the 250 main jet I ordered a while ago turned up this morning!
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Bikes running well again though without the blob of water molesting the jet…Noticed that a couple of the links on my x-ring chain have locked solid. The road salt really kills them in no time at all. Thankfully spring is real close and I have new chain and sprocket, along with new tyres to go on. Will have to put the new forks together without painting them like I wanted. Those are the licks of being a peasant tho!
…Just another Monday night
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Took the top end off to change the little end bearing. Turns out it was the gudgeon/wrist-pin had eaten away at the piston and allowed enough slack to vibrate like… well, a vibrator
but on one side only…I’m guessing it was caused by yet another piston ring placement pin failing? Basically the top ring was free to spin/turn as and when/where it pleased. Judging by the wear on the ends of the top ring it looks like it was playing chicken with the inlet (& exhaust!) ports
Both ends are chamfered off! Also my power valve looks like the loose rings were polishing it!
I’ll get there eventually though, I’m nothing if not stubborn
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Just another Monday night
…Took the top end off to change the little end bearing. Turns out it was the gudgeon/wrist-pin had eaten away at the piston and allowed enough slack to vibrate like… well, a vibrator
but on one side only…I’m guessing it was caused by yet another piston ring placement pin failing? Basically the top ring was free to spin/turn as and when/where it pleased. Judging by the wear on the ends of the top ring it looks like it was playing chicken with the inlet (& exhaust!) ports
Both ends are chamfered off! Also my power valve looks like the loose rings were polishing it!
I’ll get there eventually though, I’m nothing if not stubborn
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Nothing has touched this outside of the barrel…
It’s polished and chamfered by the top ring I’m guessing…
I think I’m real lucky that this didn’t snag a port & detonate, so i guess things could be worse
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@SpookDog Dayum! Luckily these engines are so simple it's just a case of dusting it off and reassembling.
I took delivery of new piston/rings/gaskets/small end this morning, so I'll be fitting my ported big bore soon!
Yep, I couldn’t get a decent pic of it but the top ring location pin has just ‘disappeared’ off flush with the piston. Weird having two fail in a row so soon. The top ring was literally spinning around in the groove. I’m amazed that an end didn’t tangle with a transfer port…
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I’ve ordered a second hand one for £8.00 I don’t think I can go wrong at that price…
Damn it I’ve got water in the carb again! I think it’s cause my tank is very rusty inside which massively increases surface area, add that to a cheap cap that lets air in and it gets a lot of condisation in the tank. It’s the only reason I can think of anyway. Just another upgrade job to do when I have the money and off road time to do it. Or stop running it onto reserve!
Looks like I’m going to have to get the Tzr running, which I’m going to have to half ass to start cause I don’t have the money to get the 4Fu steel liner put in @ PJME…Happy daze to all you smokers out there!
I hope you have better luck with them than I does… -
Yep, I couldn’t get a decent pic of it but the top ring location pin has just ‘disappeared’ off flush with the piston. Weird having two fail in a row so soon. The top ring was literally spinning around in the groove. I’m amazed that an end didn’t tangle with a transfer port…
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Yep, I couldn’t get a decent pic of it but the top ring location pin has just ‘disappeared’ off flush with the piston. Weird having two fail in a row so soon. The top ring was literally spinning around in the groove. I’m amazed that an end didn’t tangle with a transfer port…
@SpookDog The genuine Yamaha pistons have always been prone to ring pegs getting out and walking on the DTR, TZR125 and TZR/TDR250. Back in the 90s when having a rebore, we would demand Japanese Mitaka piston kits by name as they were better. Not tried any of the Wossner etc. ones available these days but Mitaka always did the job for me and I think PJME sell a lot of them.
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@markus-w
Cheers bud, I’ll keep that in mind till ‘pay day’ …Hotshot! I agree with the jap Mitaka piston. It’s good stuff. I used my original one that got its crown eaten into to put my engine back together, along with the barrel that the pin ‘walked’ out of! It’s not ideal but it’ll keep me mobile till I get a couple of barrels of to PJME for rebored
bike is running really sweet with the mismatched pair as well!!…
Back together 11.30 last night!…
Just did a 40 mile shake down ride and it was well perky
even though I’m not going above 5~6K… -
@markus-w
Cheers bud, I’ll keep that in mind till ‘pay day’ …Hotshot! I agree with the jap Mitaka piston. It’s good stuff. I used my original one that got its crown eaten into to put my engine back together, along with the barrel that the pin ‘walked’ out of! It’s not ideal but it’ll keep me mobile till I get a couple of barrels of to PJME for rebored
bike is running really sweet with the mismatched pair as well!!…Back together 11.30 last night!…
Just did a 40 mile shake down ride and it was well perky
even though I’m not going above 5~6K…I really am impressed with Henrique Romeau’s workmanship & design…
I found a 22mm stainless steel P clip on fleabay for a few quid…
Fits a treat and rubber mounted to counter vibration…
Looks the part as well…
I drilled out the mount hole on the pipe to 15mm to take a rubber mount, formerly used as a radiator mount on the Dtr…
The reason for the rubber mounting is that stainless steel is a very brittle metal with non of the elasticity of softer steel. If mounted to tight and subjected to vibration it can crack quite easily…
PS this is what happens when you ride around on salty roads! If I had access to a jet wash I’d rinse it down every chance I had! Salt kills almost as many 2 strokes as boyracers!!
️ … -
I really am impressed with Henrique Romeau’s workmanship & design…
I found a 22mm stainless steel P clip on fleabay for a few quid…
Fits a treat and rubber mounted to counter vibration…
Looks the part as well…
I drilled out the mount hole on the pipe to 15mm to take a rubber mount, formerly used as a radiator mount on the Dtr…
The reason for the rubber mounting is that stainless steel is a very brittle metal with non of the elasticity of softer steel. If mounted to tight and subjected to vibration it can crack quite easily…
PS this is what happens when you ride around on salty roads! If I had access to a jet wash I’d rinse it down every chance I had! Salt kills almost as many 2 strokes as boyracers!!
️ …Speedo drive unit for the sr/whatever arrived at my sisters today. First impression looks good. I won’t be sure till i compare the two side by side. The oil seals are the same size, the ring drives are Less than 0.5 mm bigger on the new one. The only real difference I can tell is the teeth of the gears are different /// on one & \\ on the other…
I’m gonna try fitting it later on, but for now it looks promising that the casing @ least will be usable. If not the whole thing…
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Speedo drive unit for the sr/whatever arrived at my sisters today. First impression looks good. I won’t be sure till i compare the two side by side. The oil seals are the same size, the ring drives are Less than 0.5 mm bigger on the new one. The only real difference I can tell is the teeth of the gears are different /// on one & \\ on the other…
I’m gonna try fitting it later on, but for now it looks promising that the casing @ least will be usable. If not the whole thing…It fits but doesn’t work. I didn’t realise that the gears slant would affect the rotation. I’m guessing the speedo drive is fitted on the left side. Shame because it’s identical but runs backwards! but back to square one. I’ll fit my gears into the good case…
It makes me wonder if some of the XT ones are a straight fit…
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Yep, I couldn’t get a decent pic of it but the top ring location pin has just ‘disappeared’ off flush with the piston. Weird having two fail in a row so soon. The top ring was literally spinning around in the groove. I’m amazed that an end didn’t tangle with a transfer port…
@SpookDog The genuine Yamaha pistons have always been prone to ring pegs getting out and walking on the DTR, TZR125 and TZR/TDR250. Back in the 90s when having a rebore, we would demand Japanese Mitaka piston kits by name as they were better. Not tried any of the Wossner etc. ones available these days but Mitaka always did the job for me and I think PJME sell a lot of them.
Have you drilled out an aluminium drive or plastic only? I’m wondering whether to try the back then drift out the pin or drill the pin out itself? I’m guessing it’s from the back…
Again: if you know how to look up registrations and can find out what colour my bike was originally, I would really luv to know
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Have you drilled out an aluminium drive or plastic only? I’m wondering whether to try the back then drift out the pin or drill the pin out itself? I’m guessing it’s from the back…
Again: if you know how to look up registrations and can find out what colour my bike was originally, I would really luv to know
…@SpookDog I looked up your 3DB - 001369 number and your bike is definitely an '88 round slide carb early bike, but it gives all three colours (white/red, black/red and endurance blue) as options.
I've only ever repaired the plastic speedo drives. I think you could theoretically drill into an alloy one from the back and tap out the roll pin, but you'd probably need a fair bit of heat/PlusGas as the steel pin will be seized in to the alloy body. Or if you have a pillar drill and a means of firmly attaching the drive to the bed at exactly 90 degrees to the drill bit, you could drill directly into the pin with say a 1mm drill bit, then slowly increase the bit size and just get rid of it that way before choosing a slightly bigger split pin to reassemble it. TBH though it seems a shame to bastardize that SR125 drive as they're classics as well. So I'd stick it back on eBay and someone somewhere will buy it off you.
Are you doing all this online stuff on a smartphone? Because a screen the size of a fag packet can make life very difficult. I have a smartphone but I'm old and crotchety as well, and I hate the things. Get a reconditioned PC for cheap, or use one at the library and you can have loads of windows open at once and look around all over the world for the best deal. And get on Facebook as well, I know I've said this before but there are a fair few lads on there who buy and sell DTR bits all the time, you could have an actual DTR unit in your hand by this time next week.
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Have you drilled out an aluminium drive or plastic only? I’m wondering whether to try the back then drift out the pin or drill the pin out itself? I’m guessing it’s from the back…
Again: if you know how to look up registrations and can find out what colour my bike was originally, I would really luv to know
…@SpookDog as @HOTSHOT-III says. The Facebook groups are a really good place for getting parts and with much better prices than eBay. I myself was always anti Facebook but I gave in about 3 years ago and joined up for the sole purpose of joining the DT groups. Haven't got my picture on there. But as I said there's a Speedo drive for sale there for £40 including postage. If you want I can message the guy and try get a phone number for you?
Also if you send an email to customersupport@yamahamotor.co.uk and tell them you have one of their bikes and you would like to get it back to original they will give you all the information you need. I did this when I got mine and received about 6 separate emails back from them. Even sent me a wiring diagram. Really couldn't fault their service. Give them the reg and vin. -
@SpookDog as @HOTSHOT-III says. The Facebook groups are a really good place for getting parts and with much better prices than eBay. I myself was always anti Facebook but I gave in about 3 years ago and joined up for the sole purpose of joining the DT groups. Haven't got my picture on there. But as I said there's a Speedo drive for sale there for £40 including postage. If you want I can message the guy and try get a phone number for you?
Also if you send an email to customersupport@yamahamotor.co.uk and tell them you have one of their bikes and you would like to get it back to original they will give you all the information you need. I did this when I got mine and received about 6 separate emails back from them. Even sent me a wiring diagram. Really couldn't fault their service. Give them the reg and vin. -
@SpookDog as @HOTSHOT-III says. The Facebook groups are a really good place for getting parts and with much better prices than eBay. I myself was always anti Facebook but I gave in about 3 years ago and joined up for the sole purpose of joining the DT groups. Haven't got my picture on there. But as I said there's a Speedo drive for sale there for £40 including postage. If you want I can message the guy and try get a phone number for you?
Also if you send an email to customersupport@yamahamotor.co.uk and tell them you have one of their bikes and you would like to get it back to original they will give you all the information you need. I did this when I got mine and received about 6 separate emails back from them. Even sent me a wiring diagram. Really couldn't fault their service. Give them the reg and vin.@markus-w
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? I’m not really a ‘people person’ if you haven’t guessed already! 🥴) that would be sweetAF… -
@markus-w
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? I’m not really a ‘people person’ if you haven’t guessed already! 🥴) that would be sweetAF… -
@markus-w
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? I’m not really a ‘people person’ if you haven’t guessed already! 🥴) that would be sweetAF… -
@markus-w
Bud! Sorry I kinda forgot about this! 101 other problems caused by salt & winter~neglect & being broke! If you can get me a number (preferably
an email? I’m not really a ‘people person’ if you haven’t guessed already! 🥴) that would be sweetAF… -
@SpookDog if you want to let me know when you've emailed him I'll let him know to make sure he checks his spam etc.
@markus-w
Cheers bud, I will…
Sorry, I’m a bit pissed at the moment. I’ve developed another top end malevolence that I’m not even going to go into. I’m trying to suss out getting PJME to rebore a couple barrels for me. Priorities, and waiting to get some monies…
