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DT125R FORUM

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Head scratcher

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Engine
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  • StanKnS StanKn

    Yeah I know, I thought they might be bad. I'll check my valve tomorrow. Is there anyway to check the seals.

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    SpookDog
    wrote on last edited by
    #6

    @StanKn

    Have you checked the wire for breakage?

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    • StanKnS Offline
      StanKnS Offline
      StanKn
      wrote on last edited by
      #7

      What sort of wiring issue could it be? My power valve is opening all the way when running. Took if for a drive with the cover off and downshifting to get it up to around 8000 and valve opened all the way. Could their be and ignition timing issue?

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      • StanKnS StanKn

        What sort of wiring issue could it be? My power valve is opening all the way when running. Took if for a drive with the cover off and downshifting to get it up to around 8000 and valve opened all the way. Could their be and ignition timing issue?

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        SpookDog
        wrote on last edited by
        #8

        @StanKn

        The ‘derestrict’ wire…

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        • StanKnS Offline
          StanKnS Offline
          StanKn
          wrote on last edited by
          #9

          Tried that too, reconnected it no difference. I'm leaning towards to cranks seals being gone?

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          • StanKnS Offline
            StanKnS Offline
            StanKn
            wrote on last edited by
            #10

            It's so weird to me, it will rev up just fine at neutral. It struggles in first and then gradually gets worse and worse as more load gets put on the engine

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            • CalumC Online
              CalumC Online
              Calum
              wrote on last edited by
              #11

              That's what it sounds like to me. The more load part makes sense.

              You're not running any aftermarket "racing" coil are you? I had this with this knock-off Chinese racing coil that had me scratching my head for ages!

              Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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              • StanKnS StanKn

                It's so weird to me, it will rev up just fine at neutral. It struggles in first and then gradually gets worse and worse as more load gets put on the engine

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                SpookDog
                wrote on last edited by
                #12

                @StanKn

                If there’s a break inside you won’t tell by reconnecting it. It’d be the same
                What colour is the plug?
                Is the spark good?

                If you can’t dial in on the problem you’ll have to do a top end check eventually. Head off or at least check out the piston and rings through the exhaust port…

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                • StanKnS Offline
                  StanKnS Offline
                  StanKn
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #13

                  I've rebuilt the top end, checked the ring gap all perfect new gudgeon pin and bearing too, it's running a brand new genuine yamaha coil right now. Is their any way of checking for a break with multimeter all the wires. Spark is perfect, but plug always comes out a little oily and black

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                  • StanKnS Offline
                    StanKnS Offline
                    StanKn
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #14

                    *all the wires seem okay on a visual inspection

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                    • StanKnS StanKn

                      *all the wires seem okay on a visual inspection

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                      SpookDog
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #15

                      @StanKn

                      Oily and black is rich mixture. Probably where you’ve played with the needle/carb settings…

                      You won’t see a break inside the insulation.
                      I don’t know much about your model but it sounds like it’s rev limiting itself. If the wire (green?) isn’t properly earthed, or connected to it’s proper place (CDI?) the CDI might be defaulting to a ‘safe’ mode. I’ve heard of similar problems with bikes with the rev limiter read bulb in the speedometer…

                      It’s the only thing I can think of if everything else is in good order like you said. It started off intermittent then failed completely…

                      You can do continuity testing with a multimeter. You may have to pierce the wire with a pin to make a testing point…

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                      • StanKnS Offline
                        StanKnS Offline
                        StanKn
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #16

                        Interesting, I've got it running leaner now and it's a a fraction better but still doesnt rev under load.
                        What do you mean by rev limiter read bulbs? I'll do a bit more Inspecting today.
                        Thanks for all the help. It's greatly appreciated.

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                        • StanKnS StanKn

                          Interesting, I've got it running leaner now and it's a a fraction better but still doesnt rev under load.
                          What do you mean by rev limiter read bulbs? I'll do a bit more Inspecting today.
                          Thanks for all the help. It's greatly appreciated.

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                          SpookDog
                          wrote on last edited by SpookDog
                          #17

                          @StanKn

                          Hey! Try running it with the ‘deristrict’ wire not earthed. See if there’s any difference…

                          The reed/read bulb refers to a dtr (don’t know what year) rev limiter…

                          PS have you cleaned out the jets and emulsion tube when you had the carb apart?…

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                          • StanKnS Offline
                            StanKnS Offline
                            StanKn
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #18

                            I've cleaned all the jets, but was wondering the emulsion tube refers to the press put large jet, that the main jet screws into, does that have some small holes going up the sides, I've only ever sprayed it with compressed air I've never removed it perhaps they may be blocked if they are present. I reconnected the wire yesterday and it made zero difference, I'll have a look to see if I have that read bulb. Thanks again @SpookDog

                            HOTSHOT IIIH 1 Reply Last reply
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                            • StanKnS Offline
                              StanKnS Offline
                              StanKn
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #19

                              If it helps @SpookDog my CDI is marked 5AN 72P

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                              • StanKnS Offline
                                StanKnS Offline
                                StanKn
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #20

                                Hope this image works, just found this could be an issue?
                                link text

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                                • StanKnS StanKn

                                  I've cleaned all the jets, but was wondering the emulsion tube refers to the press put large jet, that the main jet screws into, does that have some small holes going up the sides, I've only ever sprayed it with compressed air I've never removed it perhaps they may be blocked if they are present. I reconnected the wire yesterday and it made zero difference, I'll have a look to see if I have that read bulb. Thanks again @SpookDog

                                  HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                                  HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                                  HOTSHOT III
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #21

                                  @StanKn The emulsion tube is the long brass tube the main jet screws into yes. If you haven't done this yet you'll need to get this out (screw the main jet back in without the brass washer and lightly tap it), make sure all the holes in the tube are unblocked and also check its air feed is clear, this is the small clear tube which pushes onto a brass tube on the right of the carb body just in front of the carb-to-airbox rubber (it's a very small hole and difficult to blow through).

                                  What happens over time is the space between the carb body and emulsion tube accumulates moisture and debris and this blocks more and more of the holes until it just starts fourstroking one day.

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                                  • StanKnS Offline
                                    StanKnS Offline
                                    StanKn
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #22

                                    Christ, I thought it was just a big brass tube since there was no easy looking way to get it out. Feel a bit silly now ahah.

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                                    • StanKnS StanKn

                                      Christ, I thought it was just a big brass tube since there was no easy looking way to get it out. Feel a bit silly now ahah.

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                                      SpookDog
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #23

                                      CDI doesn’t look right. I’ve never seen one with blue shrink insulation…

                                      CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
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                                      • S SpookDog

                                        CDI doesn’t look right. I’ve never seen one with blue shrink insulation…

                                        CalumC Online
                                        CalumC Online
                                        Calum
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #24

                                        @SpookDog I wouldn't get excited about the shrink wrap, it's not a DTR after all.

                                        https://motorradteilehannover.de/Yamaha-TDR-125-5AN-Bj-1997-control-unit-CDI-control-part-A3999

                                        Does look very similar to a DTRE ignition system though. Zeeltronic might be a good upgrade to the TDR ignition system.

                                        Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                                        • StanKnS Offline
                                          StanKnS Offline
                                          StanKn
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #25

                                          Thanks again lads. Yeah I'm definitely going to get the zeeltronic in the future maybe this a sign to get it now

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