Athena 170
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@nottsbiker with the wr alot of the parts are discontinued so if you come across bit of a dog your better off breaking it, I tried to source replacement panels and graphics but it's not happening and then a decent dt125r seems to make more money than a wr200 I think half of it is if your gonna cross over and go above a 125 with a full licence why stop at a 200 I personally wouldn't therefore the 200 in form of a 125 sounds good to me
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Personal choice is what's going to be the decider here
I've had 3 DTR's 1 other TDR and 1 DT-WR and would always build a WR based bike over the road biased R every day.
Like I said though it's personal choice
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Final thoughts regarding weather to keep the autolube or not when running the 170.
- Keep autolube but tweak it to give more oil.
- Keep autolube and mix 1% oil into fuel.
- Go premix (3%)
Opinions?
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@irongamer727 I know loads of people just ran with the pump.
What do Athena recommend?
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@calum removal of pump and run 3% ofc
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@irongamer727 Ah ryt. Well if that's what they recommend.
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The oil pump of the Yamaha DT 125 is an extremely reliable component and one of the most reliable parts of the engine. There are a few reports on the Internet that engine damage are attributable to a defective oil pump, however never heard of a single failure but usualy down to people getting muck etc in the oil tank.
Does it have benefits without oil pump? No! Driving with the oil pump even has a significant advantage. If the engine when coasting run (eg motor brake a hillside rolling down) the oil pump continues to deliver oil in the engine compartment. In a disconnected oil pump of the carburetor is completely closed in this case and there is virtually no petrol (which in this case, too, the oil is included) into the engine.
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@2stroketerry you have a point, my dilemma is that the pump might not deliver the amount of oil the cylinder needs. I've heard of people running on the pump with the kit who claims it works fine. Surely with my kind of riding it will be sufficient, but every once in a while even I want to twist the throttle. Wounder if the pump can keep up at 10 000 rpm+ during longer periods.
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@2stroketerry Pump failed on my Belgarda....
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Why is it you think a bigger piston needs more oil?
It needs about 2%, just like a 50cc bike, and just like a 500cc bike.Fill the gastank and oiltank to the brim. Keep and eye on how much petrol you add, and how much oil you have to top up for a couple of tanks. Do the math, and work out the ratio the stock pump is giving you. You can still add 1% extra oil directly in the gastank while testing if you want.
Just putting around, the pump will probably only supply 1,5% which is fine. At WOT youre closer to 3%.Thats the beauty of the pump, it gives you excatly the amount of oil you need.
Cant wait to hear your thoughts about the kit.
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Yes... after modifications your engine will need more fuel to compensate for the added air the engine now consumes, but that's your air to fuel ratio. Proper jetting gets you into the "happy spot" where you should be... not too lean and not to fat. The lubricating oil in an oil injected engine delivers the correct amount of oil regardless of how your jetting is. The stock oil injection system gets blamed a lot when an engine failure happens because of a lean condition caused by improper jetting (operator error).
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Everybody gets sucked into the rumor mill crap, because they hear bull sh#t like the following...
"My brothers uncle's next door buddy has a friend,that has a friend,who knows a guy,that lives in the garage attic at his grand mothers house,that had the "Auto Lube" pump fail on his Yamaha DT".All the negative stories I hear about The Yamaha "Auto Lube" oil injection systems crack me up! I've never heard or seen a "worn out injector pump", or "broken gear", or any failed part pertaining to the "Auto Lube" injection system. EVER.
The are no parts in the pump that can actually fail. The Delron gear feeds into the main shaft. The main shaft has a worm gear built into it. That worm gear turns another shaft on an eccentric. That eccentric moves a very small plunger "piston" in and out.
I'm still am waiting to "see" proof of all the "Failed" components from this system that everybody says happens all the time. Good luck with that! I'm always hearing about the "delrin drive gear" breaking. Yeah right. I'm always hearing about the "injection pump" failing. Yeah sure..lol
If need to increase oil flow it is very easy, undo the M8 locknut, washer, adjustment plate washer and add 0.1mm Shims as arrowed in exploded view.
I am a retired motorcycle engineer with over 35 years working on engines, also over 30 years porting 2 stroke rc engines both petrol and nitro motors. Been building modifying and designing .21 nitro race engines for 1/8 scale rallycross buggys for 25 years and know a lot on 2 stroke engines, porting etc.etc.
So if anyone is into nitro rc 1/8 buggys or truggys and need help, mods, porting, sleeve resizing, anything engine related can help. Also anyone wanting anything 1/8 scale nitro or .21 race engine parts have tons of gear as retired now, have a few race truggys, engines, radios etc, fuel etc if anyone wants anything have lots of gear.
Don't mean to be sarcastic about pump failures only can go on my experience and mainly due to lack of maintenence, dirt in oil tank from not cleaning under lid etc before refitting usual causes also worn
bearings in crankcase . -
Can only say what I found, bought "restored " Dt250mx circa 1976 running on premix. Keen as ever to have as original as possible reconnected all parts to oil pump and bled system. No, it did not work at all, persevered without success so took off machine and checked drive gear was all intact (you never know) and all ok, just did not pump oil. No idea how long it had been disconnected or why, had it rebuilt for a measly cost and came back like new working. Did get some pics given to me at purchase showing condition prior to resto so will try and post some shortly to show condition. Don't discount the obvious because you have never seen it.
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As said, I've got no reason to lie about it, my Belgarda pump was foobar'd and I'm not an idiot lol. I even took it into Yamaha Skellerns Cheltenham, where Rob told me the pump was not serviceable.
Why would they turn down work? I can only go on my experience. To be honest with you, I could show you photos of the engine, and having dirt being drawn into the pump could have been highly likely.
I mean that was the state of the head, the gasket was on upside down and it was still obviously ridden. So yeah, having a poorly maintained engine would be a good cause for suspecting the pump could fail.
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Anyway, let's get back to the topic. My pump is working like a charm, and with some transparent oil lines I feel a lot more confident with it. But I mean this is the life of owning a two stroke isn't it? You can't be sure it won't break, fuss about or even start in the morning. I'll make sure the mixture is spot on and gradually move towards using only the autolube. Then we'll see if it breaks or not.
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@irongamer727 The DT is a rugged motor, you'll be hard pressed for it to break if you look after it. Always use decent oils and just keep an eye on the gauge mate and you'll be fine.
Aprilia on the other hand...they are temperamental.
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About 3km done on the dt170. Feels like a totally different bike. I'm still nervous as hell that something will fail but everything seems to work. Not bogging one bit, still quite cold outside ofc and I have not tried the upper revs.
Smoking beautifully and seems to be running rich (according to spark plug). Think I will keep this setup during the brake in. Soon time for another trip
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@irongamer727 Leave it standard and Yamaha have done all the research to make it perfectly reliable.
