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DT125R FORUM

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  4. Athena 170

Athena 170

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Top End
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  • Irongamer727I Offline
    Irongamer727I Offline
    Irongamer727
    wrote on last edited by
    #3

    anyone got experience from the kit?

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • CalumC Online
      CalumC Online
      Calum
      wrote on last edited by
      #4

      Had it running on a 2001 DTR way back when. My brother had it on his.

      Always Originate, Never Pirate!

      Irongamer727I 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • CalumC Calum

        Had it running on a 2001 DTR way back when. My brother had it on his.

        Irongamer727I Offline
        Irongamer727I Offline
        Irongamer727
        wrote on last edited by
        #5

        @calum and? Was it any good?

        CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • Irongamer727I Irongamer727

          @calum and? Was it any good?

          CalumC Online
          CalumC Online
          Calum
          wrote on last edited by
          #6

          @irongamer727 I rode it a few times, and of course back then I was blown away.

          Is it any good knowing what I know now...no not really.

          For the money, you could invest it into a 3XP engine and have much more performance.

          But each to their own I guess.

          Always Originate, Never Pirate!

          1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • A Offline
            A Offline
            andrewj1680
            wrote on last edited by
            #7

            Can't imagine you getting a 3xp engine cheap, I looked before I ended up buying a complete bike even a 3et on eBay was £450 time you paid postage

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • NottsbikerN Offline
              NottsbikerN Offline
              Nottsbiker
              wrote on last edited by
              #8

              Yes and I'll stick my neck on the line here and say the 3XP engine is better off staying in the superior WR chassis. If you can get hold of individual 3XP parts at a reasonable cost however it's worth doing.

              A 1 Reply Last reply
              2
              • NottsbikerN Nottsbiker

                Yes and I'll stick my neck on the line here and say the 3XP engine is better off staying in the superior WR chassis. If you can get hold of individual 3XP parts at a reasonable cost however it's worth doing.

                A Offline
                A Offline
                andrewj1680
                wrote on last edited by
                #9

                @nottsbiker with the wr alot of the parts are discontinued so if you come across bit of a dog your better off breaking it, I tried to source replacement panels and graphics but it's not happening and then a decent dt125r seems to make more money than a wr200 I think half of it is if your gonna cross over and go above a 125 with a full licence why stop at a 200 I personally wouldn't therefore the 200 in form of a 125 sounds good to me

                1 Reply Last reply
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                • NottsbikerN Offline
                  NottsbikerN Offline
                  Nottsbiker
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #10

                  Personal choice is what's going to be the decider here 😉

                  I've had 3 DTR's 1 other TDR and 1 DT-WR and would always build a WR based bike over the road biased R every day.

                  Like I said though it's personal choice 🙂

                  1 Reply Last reply
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                  • Irongamer727I Offline
                    Irongamer727I Offline
                    Irongamer727
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #11

                    Final thoughts regarding weather to keep the autolube or not when running the 170.

                    1. Keep autolube but tweak it to give more oil.
                    2. Keep autolube and mix 1% oil into fuel.
                    3. Go premix (3%)

                    Opinions?

                    CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • Irongamer727I Irongamer727

                      Final thoughts regarding weather to keep the autolube or not when running the 170.

                      1. Keep autolube but tweak it to give more oil.
                      2. Keep autolube and mix 1% oil into fuel.
                      3. Go premix (3%)

                      Opinions?

                      CalumC Online
                      CalumC Online
                      Calum
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #12

                      @irongamer727 I know loads of people just ran with the pump.

                      What do Athena recommend?

                      Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                      Irongamer727I 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • CalumC Calum

                        @irongamer727 I know loads of people just ran with the pump.

                        What do Athena recommend?

                        Irongamer727I Offline
                        Irongamer727I Offline
                        Irongamer727
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #13

                        @calum removal of pump and run 3% ofc

                        CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
                        0
                        • Irongamer727I Irongamer727

                          @calum removal of pump and run 3% ofc

                          CalumC Online
                          CalumC Online
                          Calum
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #14

                          @irongamer727 Ah ryt. Well if that's what they recommend.

                          Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          0
                          • 2 Offline
                            2 Offline
                            2stroketerry
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #15

                            The oil pump of the Yamaha DT 125 is an extremely reliable component and one of the most reliable parts of the engine. There are a few reports on the Internet that engine damage are attributable to a defective oil pump, however never heard of a single failure but usualy down to people getting muck etc in the oil tank.

                            Does it have benefits without oil pump? No! Driving with the oil pump even has a significant advantage. If the engine when coasting run (eg motor brake a hillside rolling down) the oil pump continues to deliver oil in the engine compartment. In a disconnected oil pump of the carburetor is completely closed in this case and there is virtually no petrol (which in this case, too, the oil is included) into the engine.

                            Irongamer727I CalumC 2 Replies Last reply
                            1
                            • 2 2stroketerry

                              The oil pump of the Yamaha DT 125 is an extremely reliable component and one of the most reliable parts of the engine. There are a few reports on the Internet that engine damage are attributable to a defective oil pump, however never heard of a single failure but usualy down to people getting muck etc in the oil tank.

                              Does it have benefits without oil pump? No! Driving with the oil pump even has a significant advantage. If the engine when coasting run (eg motor brake a hillside rolling down) the oil pump continues to deliver oil in the engine compartment. In a disconnected oil pump of the carburetor is completely closed in this case and there is virtually no petrol (which in this case, too, the oil is included) into the engine.

                              Irongamer727I Offline
                              Irongamer727I Offline
                              Irongamer727
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #16

                              @2stroketerry you have a point, my dilemma is that the pump might not deliver the amount of oil the cylinder needs. I've heard of people running on the pump with the kit who claims it works fine. Surely with my kind of riding it will be sufficient, but every once in a while even I want to twist the throttle. Wounder if the pump can keep up at 10 000 rpm+ during longer periods.

                              1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • 2 2stroketerry

                                The oil pump of the Yamaha DT 125 is an extremely reliable component and one of the most reliable parts of the engine. There are a few reports on the Internet that engine damage are attributable to a defective oil pump, however never heard of a single failure but usualy down to people getting muck etc in the oil tank.

                                Does it have benefits without oil pump? No! Driving with the oil pump even has a significant advantage. If the engine when coasting run (eg motor brake a hillside rolling down) the oil pump continues to deliver oil in the engine compartment. In a disconnected oil pump of the carburetor is completely closed in this case and there is virtually no petrol (which in this case, too, the oil is included) into the engine.

                                CalumC Online
                                CalumC Online
                                Calum
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #17

                                @2stroketerry Pump failed on my Belgarda....

                                Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • J Offline
                                  J Offline
                                  Jens Eskildsen
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #18

                                  Why is it you think a bigger piston needs more oil?
                                  It needs about 2%, just like a 50cc bike, and just like a 500cc bike.

                                  Fill the gastank and oiltank to the brim. Keep and eye on how much petrol you add, and how much oil you have to top up for a couple of tanks. Do the math, and work out the ratio the stock pump is giving you. You can still add 1% extra oil directly in the gastank while testing if you want.

                                  Just putting around, the pump will probably only supply 1,5% which is fine. At WOT youre closer to 3%.Thats the beauty of the pump, it gives you excatly the amount of oil you need.

                                  Cant wait to hear your thoughts about the kit.

                                  1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • O Offline
                                    O Offline
                                    oldman
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #19

                                    Have also suffered a failed oil pump, on a mx250 left disconnected for who knows how long, but you can get them rebuilt and recalibrated to deliver greater oil flow as required. Mine came back looking new and have had 2 others done since.

                                    1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • 2 Offline
                                      2 Offline
                                      2stroketerry
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #20

                                      Yes... after modifications your engine will need more fuel to compensate for the added air the engine now consumes, but that's your air to fuel ratio. Proper jetting gets you into the "happy spot" where you should be... not too lean and not to fat. The lubricating oil in an oil injected engine delivers the correct amount of oil regardless of how your jetting is. The stock oil injection system gets blamed a lot when an engine failure happens because of a lean condition caused by improper jetting (operator error).

                                      1 Reply Last reply
                                      0
                                      • 2 Offline
                                        2 Offline
                                        2stroketerry
                                        wrote on last edited by
                                        #21

                                        Everybody gets sucked into the rumor mill crap, because they hear bull sh#t like the following...
                                        "My brothers uncle's next door buddy has a friend,that has a friend,who knows a guy,that lives in the garage attic at his grand mothers house,that had the "Auto Lube" pump fail on his Yamaha DT".

                                        All the negative stories I hear about The Yamaha "Auto Lube" oil injection systems crack me up! I've never heard or seen a "worn out injector pump", or "broken gear", or any failed part pertaining to the "Auto Lube" injection system. EVER.

                                        The are no parts in the pump that can actually fail. The Delron gear feeds into the main shaft. The main shaft has a worm gear built into it. That worm gear turns another shaft on an eccentric. That eccentric moves a very small plunger "piston" in and out.

                                        I'm still am waiting to "see" proof of all the "Failed" components from this system that everybody says happens all the time. Good luck with that! I'm always hearing about the "delrin drive gear" breaking. Yeah right. I'm always hearing about the "injection pump" failing. Yeah sure..lol

                                        If need to increase oil flow it is very easy, undo the M8 locknut, washer, adjustment plate washer and add 0.1mm Shims as arrowed in exploded view.

                                        I am a retired motorcycle engineer with over 35 years working on engines, also over 30 years porting 2 stroke rc engines both petrol and nitro motors. Been building modifying and designing .21 nitro race engines for 1/8 scale rallycross buggys for 25 years and know a lot on 2 stroke engines, porting etc.etc.

                                        So if anyone is into nitro rc 1/8 buggys or truggys and need help, mods, porting, sleeve resizing, anything engine related can help. Also anyone wanting anything 1/8 scale nitro or .21 race engine parts have tons of gear as retired now, have a few race truggys, engines, radios etc, fuel etc if anyone wants anything have lots of gear.

                                        Don't mean to be sarcastic about pump failures only can go on my experience and mainly due to lack of maintenence, dirt in oil tank from not cleaning under lid etc before refitting usual causes also worn 0_1520181050655_exploded_autolube_pump.JPG bearings in crankcase .

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • O Offline
                                          O Offline
                                          oldman
                                          wrote on last edited by
                                          #22

                                          Can only say what I found, bought "restored " Dt250mx circa 1976 running on premix. Keen as ever to have as original as possible reconnected all parts to oil pump and bled system. No, it did not work at all, persevered without success so took off machine and checked drive gear was all intact (you never know) and all ok, just did not pump oil. No idea how long it had been disconnected or why, had it rebuilt for a measly cost and came back like new working. Did get some pics given to me at purchase showing condition prior to resto so will try and post some shortly to show condition. Don't discount the obvious because you have never seen it.

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