So Close!...
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@markus-w @SpookDog It should be a round slide carb bike with that VIN number. I had a look on Yamaha France but it didn't recognise the VIN so just looked it up as an '88 DT125R; the original part number is 1W2-25190-00 and CMSNL/Fowlers both say it's superseded to 3XP-25190-00. The 3XP looks like the plastic version on CMSNL, in stock at Fowlers, £74.40:
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/gear-unit-assy_3xp2519000/
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4055682/dt125r-3bn1-1988-999-c/front-wheel
Maybe try Motorcycle Part Finder UK, they contact over 200 breakers:
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In the daylight it looks like
3DB - 001369
With a big gap between the 3DB and the 00It says there are 3 options: black, white & solid enduro blue. I’d love to know what original colour my bike was registered as, can anyone help me find out?…
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@SpookDog That's for an SR125 which has I think an 17" front wheel, and the spindle diameter is likely to be different as well so it definitely wouldn't fit a DTR.
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_sr125 97.htm
Have you tried Motorcycle PartFinderUK from my previous post?
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Same diameter 15mm. I was more interested in the 3 prong internals. I could use my gear wheel if not my worm drive. There are some used ones going for £11 I’m going to see if I can find measurements for one. The 3 prefix letters are different but the middle numbers (25190) are the same, it has an 01 on the end instead of a 00. I’m hoping that an upgrade to where the cable fits in, an oring maybe
I live in hope!…Gonna try part finder later today but don’t think it’ll be cheap…
Edit Got one coming for £8 it’s worth laying eyes on for that price…
There are mid 80’s XT ones that look the same, 3 prong and seal ect. Some of the XT’s used the same speedo/rev counter as the dtr I think…
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Would you believe it that my top end has developed a rattle that is only getting worse!
It’s my fault for using second hand top ends before, because I couldn’t cure the head gasket blowing problem.
Now I’ve solved it I want to get my original 3MB barrel rebored with piston, ect. I’ve got another bottom end I want to put new everything in as well though, while I’m at it.I might put the Tzr on the road first though. So I’ve got something to run while I get the frame and casings, ect powder coated…
Juggling decisions on a shoestring budget, you kinda got to get it right before you do it
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Can you believe that this worm gear will still not just pull out?!
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Even after beating the brass cap/insert up & out the worm gear shaft won’t come out
I had to cut down even further because the hard steel of the worm gear had ‘burred’ over a lip on the ally that held it in!…
And finally! Freedom! And it’s not bent!…
My~Fucking~Life!…
SAPFM!….@HOTSHOT-III
Is there supposed to be a washer on the top @ bottom of the worm drive?
Mine only has one on the top? I’m guessing that the spin makes the drive ride up against the top washer, so it doesn’t need one on the bottom?…
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@SpookDog I noticed the washer was always on the top of the worm drive when repairing the plastic ones; odd because as the worm gear rotates with the wheel, IMO it pushes the worm drive downwards. As I said I bought a load of shims the correct ID/OD for pence from China and just shimmed mine at top and bottom when reassembling.
I wouldn't go for the SR125 NOS one if I were you; if the spindle is the same diameter all well and good on that score but the internal gear ratio will be completely different for a 17" wheel meaning the speedo won't read correctly. And paying £55 to try and swap your internals into it, you might as well pay the extra £19 for a brand new 3XP one from Fowlers.
Expensive for a speedo drive though yes, I'd be getting on to PartFinder and Googling breakers all over the UK. Also consider getting on FaceBook as there's around 15-20 dedicated DTR pages full of helpful people, some of whom buy and sell DTR parts all the time. This forum is excellent but bottom line there's more people on FB, I'm not a huge fan of social media but you have to make it work for you.
IIRC Yamaha use the same numbering system for all their parts, the actual 5-digit number is the same for a particular item (a spoke set for instance) and the 3-digit prefix denotes the model (3XP = DT200WR I think, so I guess they adapted that bike's USD forks so th same shape speedo drive could be used). 00, 01, 02 etc. endings are where a part has been superseded with minor changes.
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I’ve ordered a second hand one for £8.00 I don’t think I can go wrong at that price…
Damn it I’ve got water in the carb again! I think it’s cause my tank is very rusty inside which massively increases surface area, add that to a cheap cap that lets air in and it gets a lot of condisation in the tank. It’s the only reason I can think of anyway. Just another upgrade job to do when I have the money and off road time to do it. Or stop running it onto reserve!
Looks like I’m going to have to get the Tzr running, which I’m going to have to half ass to start cause I don’t have the money to get the 4Fu steel liner put in @ PJME…Happy daze to all you smokers out there!
I hope you have better luck with them than I does… -
Stripped and cleaned the carb last night and put it back together, then the 250 main jet I ordered a while ago turned up this morning!
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Bikes running well again though without the blob of water molesting the jet…Noticed that a couple of the links on my x-ring chain have locked solid. The road salt really kills them in no time at all. Thankfully spring is real close and I have new chain and sprocket, along with new tyres to go on. Will have to put the new forks together without painting them like I wanted. Those are the licks of being a peasant tho!
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Just another Monday night
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Took the top end off to change the little end bearing. Turns out it was the gudgeon/wrist-pin had eaten away at the piston and allowed enough slack to vibrate like… well, a vibrator
but on one side only…I’m guessing it was caused by yet another piston ring placement pin failing? Basically the top ring was free to spin/turn as and when/where it pleased. Judging by the wear on the ends of the top ring it looks like it was playing chicken with the inlet (& exhaust!) ports
Both ends are chamfered off! Also my power valve looks like the loose rings were polishing it!
I’ll get there eventually though, I’m nothing if not stubborn
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Yep, I couldn’t get a decent pic of it but the top ring location pin has just ‘disappeared’ off flush with the piston. Weird having two fail in a row so soon. The top ring was literally spinning around in the groove. I’m amazed that an end didn’t tangle with a transfer port…
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Yep, I couldn’t get a decent pic of it but the top ring location pin has just ‘disappeared’ off flush with the piston. Weird having two fail in a row so soon. The top ring was literally spinning around in the groove. I’m amazed that an end didn’t tangle with a transfer port…
@SpookDog The genuine Yamaha pistons have always been prone to ring pegs getting out and walking on the DTR, TZR125 and TZR/TDR250. Back in the 90s when having a rebore, we would demand Japanese Mitaka piston kits by name as they were better. Not tried any of the Wossner etc. ones available these days but Mitaka always did the job for me and I think PJME sell a lot of them.
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@markus-w
Cheers bud, I’ll keep that in mind till ‘pay day’ …Hotshot! I agree with the jap Mitaka piston. It’s good stuff. I used my original one that got its crown eaten into to put my engine back together, along with the barrel that the pin ‘walked’ out of! It’s not ideal but it’ll keep me mobile till I get a couple of barrels of to PJME for rebored
bike is running really sweet with the mismatched pair as well!!…
Back together 11.30 last night!…
Just did a 40 mile shake down ride and it was well perky
even though I’m not going above 5~6K… -
I really am impressed with Henrique Romeau’s workmanship & design…
I found a 22mm stainless steel P clip on fleabay for a few quid…
Fits a treat and rubber mounted to counter vibration…
Looks the part as well…
I drilled out the mount hole on the pipe to 15mm to take a rubber mount, formerly used as a radiator mount on the Dtr…
The reason for the rubber mounting is that stainless steel is a very brittle metal with non of the elasticity of softer steel. If mounted to tight and subjected to vibration it can crack quite easily…
PS this is what happens when you ride around on salty roads! If I had access to a jet wash I’d rinse it down every chance I had! Salt kills almost as many 2 strokes as boyracers!!
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Speedo drive unit for the sr/whatever arrived at my sisters today. First impression looks good. I won’t be sure till i compare the two side by side. The oil seals are the same size, the ring drives are Less than 0.5 mm bigger on the new one. The only real difference I can tell is the teeth of the gears are different /// on one & \\ on the other…
I’m gonna try fitting it later on, but for now it looks promising that the casing @ least will be usable. If not the whole thing…
