Skip to content
  • Recent
  • Tags
  • Popular
  • Users
  • Groups
Skins
  • Light
  • Cerulean
  • Cosmo
  • Flatly
  • Journal
  • Litera
  • Lumen
  • Lux
  • Materia
  • Minty
  • Morph
  • Pulse
  • Sandstone
  • Simplex
  • Sketchy
  • Spacelab
  • United
  • Yeti
  • Zephyr
  • Dark
  • Cyborg
  • Darkly
  • Quartz
  • Slate
  • Solar
  • Superhero
  • Vapor

  • Default (Slate)
  • No Skin
Collapse
Brand Logo

DT125R FORUM

  1. Home
  2. Technical Zone
  3. Engine
  4. TDR issue

TDR issue

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved Engine
97 Posts 12 Posters 19.6k Views
  • Oldest to Newest
  • Newest to Oldest
  • Most Votes
Reply
  • Reply as topic
Log in to reply
This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
  • CalumC Offline
    CalumC Offline
    Calum
    wrote on last edited by
    #85

    Spark Plug looks fine mate.

    I didn't think it was fueling.

    A plug chop must be done at high RPM WOT and the ignition to be switch off and clutch pulled in then bike pushed home

    You don't get any sort of idea of how the engine is performing whilst pootling around. However you do see if there are any problems.

    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

    Irongamer727I 1 Reply Last reply
    1
    • CalumC Calum

      Spark Plug looks fine mate.

      I didn't think it was fueling.

      A plug chop must be done at high RPM WOT and the ignition to be switch off and clutch pulled in then bike pushed home

      You don't get any sort of idea of how the engine is performing whilst pootling around. However you do see if there are any problems.

      Irongamer727I Offline
      Irongamer727I Offline
      Irongamer727
      wrote on last edited by
      #86

      @calum isn't it bad for the engine just shutting of at ~12k rpm? Does he get lubrication? Feels so sketchy to me.

      CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • T Offline
        T Offline
        TDRnoob
        wrote on last edited by
        #87

        0_1506068334371_20170920_175043.jpg

        Confused about the reed valve. Took it out last time and I don't remember which way to put in. On a manual it says that there is special cutout on the corner but I don't see anything on mine. There is white marking on the top in the center. Is it correct like I am holding in a hand or upside down? The upper gap seems wider than down one.

        1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • NottsbikerN Offline
          NottsbikerN Offline
          Nottsbiker
          wrote on last edited by
          #88

          As far as I remember the two stopper plates should be the same spacing. If they are not then a previous owner might have tried to modify it to open more.

          Not sure if the reed valves have a top or bottom to them but if it looks symmetrical then it shouldn't matter which way up it goes.

          T 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • Irongamer727I Irongamer727

            @calum isn't it bad for the engine just shutting of at ~12k rpm? Does he get lubrication? Feels so sketchy to me.

            CalumC Offline
            CalumC Offline
            Calum
            wrote on last edited by
            #89

            @irongamer727 Hence why I said clutch pulled in

            So it's not shutting the engine off at 12k RPM. You shut the engine off and pull the clutch in so the RPM's go to zero.

            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

            1 Reply Last reply
            0
            • T TDRnoob

              Another update with the brand new issue

              Cold bike. I couldn't start start it. It didn't accept the throttle. Started with the choke only. When warmed up everything worked fine with the choke off.

              Spent about 10 minutes on adjusting the carburetor air screw (to get the highest rev on idle)

              Noticed that the bike is heating up a bit to fast. (Heat arrow pointed at 3/4)

              Decided to go for a ride

              In the beginning accelerated well, after 2-3 minutes started to feel like something is dragging behind.

              Engine was running very slowly and it didn't accept the throttle.

              I stopped and noticed that in neutral gear is hard to push bike forward of backwards. Looks like the engine is tight?

              When it gets colder then gets back to normal.

              Video

              https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV5ynUc5-xw&feature=youtu.be

              Any thoughts?

              Regards

              T Offline
              T Offline
              TDRnoob
              wrote on last edited by
              #90

              @tdrnoob Due to not finding the problem I started to check the back wheel. I felt that it it could be something with the brakes/wheel.
              And it was the rear master cylinder fitted in wrong position to the frame. It was fitted on the frame and supposed to be behind the frame... That what caused the brakes to drag.
              Such a simple thing. And such a noob.
              But so glad that I found this issue and is fixed now.
              You know that feeling when after long disappointment you feel full wave of happiness.

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • NottsbikerN Nottsbiker

                As far as I remember the two stopper plates should be the same spacing. If they are not then a previous owner might have tried to modify it to open more.

                Not sure if the reed valves have a top or bottom to them but if it looks symmetrical then it shouldn't matter which way up it goes.

                T Offline
                T Offline
                TDRnoob
                wrote on last edited by
                #91

                @nottsbiker The was different spacing between them. I have pushed them gently to original positions. According to DT125R manual it says that the space should be 6.8 mm,
                Do you think it is the same for Belgardas? The engine is the same, but the carb is different.

                1 Reply Last reply
                0
                • NottsbikerN Offline
                  NottsbikerN Offline
                  Nottsbiker
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #92

                  I would have thought so

                  You sure about 6.8mm? For some reason I have 11mm in my head - could be wrong of course, and I'm at work so no way to check for certain

                  T 1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • NottsbikerN Nottsbiker

                    I would have thought so

                    You sure about 6.8mm? For some reason I have 11mm in my head - could be wrong of course, and I'm at work so no way to check for certain

                    T Offline
                    T Offline
                    TDRnoob
                    wrote on last edited by
                    #93

                    @nottsbiker 0_1506604413908_ppp.jpg

                    NottsbikerN 1 Reply Last reply
                    0
                    • T Offline
                      T Offline
                      TDRnoob
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #94

                      Hi guys. I got the same issue as andrewj1680 had in his topic "Need Help". So I cant start the bike when it is cold. It starts easy with the choke on. The head gasket is new. Ignition coil is new as well. The carb was cleaned 2 times already. Looks like need to have a look into carb again?

                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oW1T_5G3KIA

                      CalumC 1 Reply Last reply
                      0
                      • T TDRnoob

                        @nottsbiker 0_1506604413908_ppp.jpg

                        NottsbikerN Offline
                        NottsbikerN Offline
                        Nottsbiker
                        wrote on last edited by
                        #95

                        @tdrnoob

                        No problem mate was my rusty memory!

                        1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • T TDRnoob

                          Hi guys. I got the same issue as andrewj1680 had in his topic "Need Help". So I cant start the bike when it is cold. It starts easy with the choke on. The head gasket is new. Ignition coil is new as well. The carb was cleaned 2 times already. Looks like need to have a look into carb again?

                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oW1T_5G3KIA

                          CalumC Offline
                          CalumC Offline
                          Calum
                          wrote on last edited by Calum
                          #96

                          @tdrnoob Yeah yeah this is completely normal.

                          So long as the bike starts with choke that's fine.

                          Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • J Offline
                            J Offline
                            Jens Eskildsen
                            wrote on last edited by
                            #97

                            Check the choke passageway in the floatbowl, for some reason people never clean this when they clean the carb.

                            1 Reply Last reply
                            0
                            Reply
                            • Reply as topic
                            Log in to reply
                            • Oldest to Newest
                            • Newest to Oldest
                            • Most Votes


                            • Login

                            • Don't have an account? Register

                            • Login or register to search.
                            • First post
                              Last post
                            0
                            • Recent
                            • Tags
                            • Popular
                            • Users
                            • Groups