TDR issue
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As far as I remember the two stopper plates should be the same spacing. If they are not then a previous owner might have tried to modify it to open more.
Not sure if the reed valves have a top or bottom to them but if it looks symmetrical then it shouldn't matter which way up it goes.
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@calum isn't it bad for the engine just shutting of at ~12k rpm? Does he get lubrication? Feels so sketchy to me.
@irongamer727 Hence why I said
clutch pulled inSo it's not shutting the engine off at 12k RPM. You shut the engine off and pull the clutch in so the RPM's go to zero.
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Another update with the brand new issue
Cold bike. I couldn't start start it. It didn't accept the throttle. Started with the choke only. When warmed up everything worked fine with the choke off.
Spent about 10 minutes on adjusting the carburetor air screw (to get the highest rev on idle)
Noticed that the bike is heating up a bit to fast. (Heat arrow pointed at 3/4)
Decided to go for a ride
In the beginning accelerated well, after 2-3 minutes started to feel like something is dragging behind.
Engine was running very slowly and it didn't accept the throttle.
I stopped and noticed that in neutral gear is hard to push bike forward of backwards. Looks like the engine is tight?
When it gets colder then gets back to normal.
Video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KV5ynUc5-xw&feature=youtu.be
Any thoughts?
Regards
@tdrnoob Due to not finding the problem I started to check the back wheel. I felt that it it could be something with the brakes/wheel.
And it was the rear master cylinder fitted in wrong position to the frame. It was fitted on the frame and supposed to be behind the frame... That what caused the brakes to drag.
Such a simple thing. And such a noob.
But so glad that I found this issue and is fixed now.
You know that feeling when after long disappointment you feel full wave of happiness. -
As far as I remember the two stopper plates should be the same spacing. If they are not then a previous owner might have tried to modify it to open more.
Not sure if the reed valves have a top or bottom to them but if it looks symmetrical then it shouldn't matter which way up it goes.
@nottsbiker The was different spacing between them. I have pushed them gently to original positions. According to DT125R manual it says that the space should be 6.8 mm,
Do you think it is the same for Belgardas? The engine is the same, but the carb is different. -
I would have thought so
You sure about 6.8mm? For some reason I have 11mm in my head - could be wrong of course, and I'm at work so no way to check for certain
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I would have thought so
You sure about 6.8mm? For some reason I have 11mm in my head - could be wrong of course, and I'm at work so no way to check for certain
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Hi guys. I got the same issue as andrewj1680 had in his topic "Need Help". So I cant start the bike when it is cold. It starts easy with the choke on. The head gasket is new. Ignition coil is new as well. The carb was cleaned 2 times already. Looks like need to have a look into carb again?
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No problem mate was my rusty memory!
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Hi guys. I got the same issue as andrewj1680 had in his topic "Need Help". So I cant start the bike when it is cold. It starts easy with the choke on. The head gasket is new. Ignition coil is new as well. The carb was cleaned 2 times already. Looks like need to have a look into carb again?
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Check the choke passageway in the floatbowl, for some reason people never clean this when they clean the carb.
