DT125R FORUM

@calum The graphics are in good condition and he has a spare panel with graphics on.

@mightyman Its based in the Isle of Man, it hasnt been on the road for 5 years so will need to be retested. I have been offered it for £1,000, it needs a few parts. In his words "Needs a set of tyres , chain & rear sprocket set & a new set of grips. I have a new set of rear pads & side panel with decal to go with the bike , always starts first time been started warmed up and moved around regularly whilst off road."

Was wondering its worth?

Somebody I know is looking to sell his Stefan Everts Edition, it has 4,100 miles on it and has been sat for the past 6 years, he has confirmed that a new battery and new fuel and it started first time on the key.

Can anybody put a value on it?

Sounds like the bike is still restricted.

@calum the tail pipe is for the year of bike I just think the problem here is the front pipe not being correct. I'm not going to spend £180 on a new one though as it's a little bit expensive for an expansion chamber.

After more fiddling lots of hammering and swearing tools thrown across the garage. I have managed to get them closer, they just don't seem to want to go inside one another.

@calum So if that is the pipe on the actual holes for the exhaust, how can it attach to the frame?

That is the system tightened up, they are two DEP pipes so I'm not sure what the problem is... I was looking at this instead of rubber with two clamps on it, hopefully this will be a better option.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222426936515
However i am not able to measure it yet, and i am going off what other people have used.

I have bought 3 in the last 2 months. There seems to be an underlying problem here as there cannot be a problem with the rubbers. all 3 have split down the side. Is there something im doing wrong? or do i go down the route of flexible exhaust pipe.

When setting up the Servo/Pulleys on my DT, i understand it is necessary to ensure that the powevalve is flush with the exhaust port.
I have taken off the exhaust have ensured that this is the case, take the slack off the cables, and turn the ignition on so it can do its cleaning cycle.

When i do this the servo makes the noise it would if it was trying to move but it gets stuck.

When it does the Cleaning cycle, the powervalve turns clockwise and and pins shut, is this normal behaviour, as when i hit 7,000 where the PV should kick in and throw the front wheel up there is just a small pull, nothing compared to what im used to.

Is there something that i am doing wrong?

So 1.5 Fine Pitch M18 is not the right nut....

I have even hack sawed off the damaged thread at the end.

Anymore ideas?

I saw the £7 as a rip off. Thanks for the size mate will grab one tomorrow.

Iv managed to cross thread the nut. Does anyone know what nut fits the rear spindle, as the last 3 Iv bought doesn't do the job. Any help would be appreciated. I know it's a 1.5 pitch on the spindle and a 27mm nut that's all.

Thanks.

I have done the alignment with a screw driver holding the power valve, the cables are not under stress.

It starts the cleaning cycle by going all the way down to the right, but it does not return, back to the top.

when it is running it does not move either.

I am aware that the cables may be too tight, otherwise they are too slack.

I am having a hard time setting up the power valve.

The cleaning cycle starts goes down to the bottom but does not return back up...
I can pin it open but then its low on power or run it with the power valve turned round however, the power valve has been rebuilt, i will turn down and when you move the power valve to the front it moves to the left. so i dont know what to do next.

Thanks Guys

@Louis-James I was also looking at this in case my one cant be bodged together, this one is for the 50 model but i'm pretty sure that its the same head as it looks like parts are interchangeable on the bikes.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Yamaha-DT-50cc-1995-2008-Temperature-Temp-Sender-Sensor-/361928310266?hash=item54449bbdfa:g:CMIAAOxyoA1RLh5k

There is a bolt looking thing with a spade connector, on the head to the front right this is your temperature sender, theres then a wire which connects to this, it may have come off, if not you will have to purchase a new one and there not cheap, £43 if you can find one.