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Hi All,
Anyone got a baseline setting for the Athena 170cc kit with the standard carb. also running the Athena Exhaust system
iv started at pilot jet 27.5 needle on second from bottom and a 270 main jet,
just curious as to what other people have run?
Cheers
Tom
@gazza76 sorry for the late reply, after getting the multimeter out, mine was a black earth issue, so inside the loom i had 1 wire was dead, this was the black runing from the loom to the connector block for the side stand, i also then had a Black terminal on the nutural relay at the back that was not creating a connection.
maybe it helps you, easiest way i found was mulitmeter to the frame earth point at the coil. and stick the meter in contunaty mode, should beep when you touch the prongs together. and then probe all the black earths across the loom.
Cheers
Hi all im going thought the same situation right now!
Not to hijack your thread here Gazza,
now i do have 2 looms to play with. one is a genuine Yamaha 3RM the other is a unknown.
the genuine one i have no problems with. but the other one i have has the same issue as you Gazza, if bypass the Kill and Side stand Switch with a loop and i then bridge all the pins on the ignition block then i get no spark, however if i then remove the pins from red and brown. the spark returns.
now the switches work by bridging the connections to red and brown and B/w to B/y respectivly.
like i said i have a genuine 3RM loom to and that is fine so i know the components are absoulutly fine. and the bike runs
its just with this unknown loom that i have an issue with. @gazza76 im curious to know did you get this loom from ebay a 3rd party made aftermarket one?
Most likely a wiring fault, have a look behind the headlight cowl and make sure everything's in the right place.
as you've just brought it i assume you dont know the history of the bike ? anyone could have messed with it
have you got a Haynes manual?
is this a bright orange supermoto by any chance ?
Hi Guys. IM Back With a new project didn't take long!
does anyone remember the guy who used to sell the seat covers and panels new from Portugal he seams to have disappeared off ebay.
or does anyone have an original good looking seat cover at a reasonable price ?
cheers
Hi All, unfortunatly iv had to sell my DT125R
on better news iv passed my DAS so have a new bike meet Hettie 1998 CBR 600 F3 108bhp completely standard when i got her with 16000miles on the clock and one owner. have since got a black widow exhaust and changed a few thinks mostly look wise
i will buy another DT when funds allow probably next summer when i want to go green lane-ing.
if anyone buys my old bike or ends up with reg X6**BAM keep in touch! or PM me
BUT i Will be back 
Update, All is good ! looks like its fixed for now !
can someone remind me noise from clutch in neutral but when you pull the lever the noise goes ?
can't remember what it is the cause ?
well im actually debating weather im just panicking,
head and barrel skimmed and copper gasket with copper seal torqued to 22nm. the water has dropped in the rad to what i filled it up to, water is just sitting below the rad neck, and don't seem to be losing anything more, that's probably just where the water level is set.
like i said im probably just being a idiot and lacking faith lol. i'll see how it goes for a week and keep an eye on it,
Update,
went to go get a maccy d's for lunch lost a bit of coolant, so im afarid its still not done anyway got a second head now so ill go get that skimmed and the barrel checked, why are these such a bast**d to seal done x amount of 2 stroke head gaskets never had a leak., yet the dt is a pain. so im just going to go on the assumption that things are warped somewhere, at least i got a geunuine head gasket floating around now. the head gasket should show where the leak is hiding .
i think its safe to say yamaha should have used O rings instead of steel gaskets like all there other 2 strokes, funny that iv never seen a AM6 or a rotax 122 (not yammys obv) head gasket leak there both oring'ed, i feel a experimental project comming on
has anyone done it before ?
http://i44.photobucket.com/albums/f21/tom_smith7/IMG-20160412-WA0001_zpsrdcpssxh.jpg
So i got all my bits and have all been fitted. went for a 40 mile ride last night no leaks and no need to top up coolant,
on the way to work today 30 mile trip let bike cool coolant is just under rad neck so possibly just working out air bubbles so probs lost 5-10ml
this is using the copper gasket with copper sealant "spray a gasket" type of stuff
see how it goes on the ride home 
UPDATE,
had the head checked by a engineer buddy and its all flat so no warpage.
the workshops theroy for the blown head gasket.
in normal operation the thermostat regulates and pressurizes the system as @Calum stated maintaining a optimal temperature,
without a thermostat and having a free flow the "cold" coolant from the rad is being dumped into a boiling hot engine causing " thermometric" stress over time you end up with unevenly cooled parts of the head and develop hot spots "most likely over the exhaust port" this causes the aluminum to expand quicker than other parts and essentially crush the head gasket in small places. basically a slight bulge in the head surface. the engine then cools and the aluminum in the head then returns to normal, unfortunately the gasket cannot, so when you next start the engine from cold the gasket then blows past the weakest point your crushed head gasket !
i relise @Calum you have said this earlier doesn't hurt for a second opinion. but thank you i wouldn't have chased the thermostat route if you hadn't have clocked on to it
well parts should be here tomorrow including a new THERMOSTAT! so fingers crossed
cheers lads
after research and reading on many car forums iv decided to go with a copper head gasket with a bit of hylomar universal blue and a re skim on the head... depending on what the engineer says will double up the base gaskets. hopefully that will be the last time i hear of a leak.
with the help of the new thermostat as well
will probably take some pictures when putting it back together wont be till around the 20th of this month though
just having a thought about copper gaskets again,
i was sure copper reacts with aluminum so i had a quick search on the net.
"Aluminum will be very susceptible to galvanic corrosion in contact with copper, assuming that the two metals are also in contact with a common electrolyte (such as water with some ionic content.) Almost any text or handbook on corrosion will have galvanic series table. The farther two metals or alloys are separated on the table, faster the corrosion of the less noble of the two will be when they are in contact."
location of quote http://www.finishing.com/78/97.shtml
so surely copper head gaskets are a bad thing, also copper doesn't and wont compress like the OEM gaskets do so there cant be any imperfections on ether surface,
but then i think copper washers are used for air and water tight fittings as a "gasket" as such so copper does have its sealing quilatys
so my question is the pros and cons of copper good or bad ?? what would be the advantages over the OEM gaskets.
maybe is should start a new thread ??
